Do You Use Your Blade Guard

[Eagan]

Alway

Over the years I've grown quite attached to my fingers. My blade cover stays on.

[eddiesfriend]

Missed this thread.

Always use the stock guard, except when using my crosscut sled or for non-through cuts, when I swap out the guard for a RK.



Exactly what I did. Left the pawls on, but cut the spring - scratches eliminated, and weight (gravity) lets the pawls still be effective.

Thanks for the help Bill.

[Norm in Fujino]

Do you use your blade guard cover?

No, but I always* use my shop-made Inca-style riving knife, which prevents kickbacks and allows both through and partial cuts.
Nota bene: While use of the proper riving knife prevents kickbacks. it will not prevent your placing your hand on top of the blade. I have to do that.

*When possible for the cut involved.

Edit: I should add that I always use push shoes whenever the cut at all allows (which is almost always).

[crokett]

Could you elaborate? Not clear to me when the blade cover could be a negative.

I can't speak for Messmaker but for me, I learned woodworking on saws that neither had a blade guard nor a splitter so I am probably more comfortable than most in working without the guard. That is one aspect. I do keep the splitter on the saw, although I cut it down so I could leave it on for non-through cuts. Another is the first few months I had my saw, the pawls caused more problems than they fixed in regards to especially when the blade was binding on a cut for whatever reason I couldn't easily pull the stock back out. I've also had a piece bind and start to lift, even with the pawls. With featherboards I can back stock off and because I can place them slightly ahead of the cut, no lifting. Lastly I always use push sticks and push shoes. With the guard on, I couldn't easily use the stick so my fingers were getting uncomfortably close to the blade.

[jabe]

Always when I taught my students. At the start of my own woodworking career No, most of the TS at that time had no guards on. As the years went on I started to use the guards more often. Now I use the shark riving knife all the time without the blade guard & anti kick back pawls.

[docrowan]

I read back to my previous response in January of last year and found I had asked a question about cutting the springs on the pawls. This thread was resurrected by "eddiesfriend" asking the same question. Since January 2009 I did cut the springs and have been satisfied - no more scratches or excessive downforce from the pawls. I even removed the nasty duct tape I had stuck on them. I've never had a kickback so I can't speak much to their effectiveness, but I understand that kickback usually causes the rear of the wood to raise slightly in addition to flinging the wood forward. If so, the pawls will dig in.

Incidentally, I also needed to make the guard easily removable since I park the saw under a bench and there is very little clearance. I wound up cutting the pivot pin that holds the plastic guard to the metal support arm and replacing it with a bolt, pair of washers, and a wingnut. Easy on and easy off. Note that I MUST reinstall the plastic guard since the support arm can contact the blade if the guard is not installed. I like this since I am forced to put the guard on. I don't like to make it easy to be unsafe.

[conwaygolfer]

Since I had 15 stitches in my thumb 3 weeks ago - I am waiting for the sharkguard to arrive. Refuse to use the tablesaw until it gets here. Should have had a guard on before I turned the saw into a meat slicer.

Conwaygolfer

[Richard in Smithville]

Fellow at work took three weeks holiday to finish his kitchen. 2nd day he sliced his thumb reaching over the moving blade to shift an off cut. About half a dozen stiches later and he was calling a friend to come help.

I always use the guard for every cut possible.

[Ed62]

Lastly I always use push sticks and push shoes. With the guard on, I couldn't easily use the stick so my fingers were getting uncomfortably close to the blade.

I made a push stick or push shoe out of 3/4" plywood. It is shaped like a hand saw, and the "blade" is roughly 16" long, with a notch to push the stock. I also made another one like it out of 1/4" hardboard. This one is great when you don't have much room. A big advantage to using these is that you can put pressure downwards near the blade to keep the stock from lifting.

My blade guard is always on except when it has to come off. My pawls came off the saw soon after I bought it.

Ed

[master53yoda]

I have been showing my grandkids the injury pictures and talk about injuries as they have come up on here, I have not always used my saw guard because of the anti kick back pawls leaving marks on the wood. But I ordered a shark guard last week and am waiting for it to come. I'm then going to bring the grandkids over and make a production of installing it with them and discussing blade guards and push sticks etc. I share quite a few of the threads with the grandkids when they are here.

[Ed62]

Wow, Art! That's an excellent idea. My hat's off to you.

Ed

[softop41]

Never use the saw without it if at all posssible. Had the Shark on my BT3100 and now on my C-man 22124. Wouldn't be caught dead w/o it in use. Shark is easy to use and offers great dust collection w/ the 4" outlet.

[dbhost]

Never use the saw without it if at all posssible. Had the Shark on my BT3100 and now on my C-man 22124. Wouldn't be caught dead w/o it in use. Shark is easy to use and offers great dust collection w/ the 4" outlet.

I need to get w/ Lee RE: getting a new SG... I want the new one with a 4" port... I am sick of necking down my DC plumbing from 4" to 2.5" reducer, then half a billion winds of tape to make that fit over the 2" port on mine... It works, but it is far from elegant. FWIW, when it is all hooked up, dust collection from my BT3100 is amazing, but it requires a LOT of hookup. Belly pan, blade shroud, and Shark guard keep my HF DC really busy... Especially with MDF.

[Cochese]

Always, if the cut will allow it. Seemed like the smart thing to do

[sailor55330]

A couple of answers.

1. Yes, I use the guard, but I don't like it. The previous owner was a heavy cigar smoker (could smell it in the garage when I bought the saw) and the guard is yellowed. It makes it hard to see the blade.

2. The stock guard (the plastic part)seems to have a lot of side to side play when I feed stock. It always concerns me that the blade guard is going touch the blade and shatter. To eliminate this, I try to put the front edge of the stock under the guard to keep it straight, but this means taking 1 hand off the workpiece while dangerously close to the blade, which I don't like

3. Pawls with no springs. I did this. They are still effective and don't seem to scratch, however, they now have a tendency to "fall" into the throatplate when I raise the blade high. I have to hold them in place while I lower the blade. My biggest complaint is I continually cut myself on the pawls


Overall the riving knife is good, but the blade guard does interfere with close rips. I just can't see investing in a Shark guard for a saw I'm not sure I'll keep.