21829 maintenance

[ars_lurker]

I have been lax in my saw maintenance lately so it is time to get started. I am using the article by Mr. Frye as my guide and ran into a question I am sure you all can answer.

For the dry-lube everyone recommends, has anyone tried Molybdenum Disulfide dry lubricant?

I was working on the arsenal getting ready for whitetail deer annihilation next week and ran across a spray can of it. I don’t have any other dry-lube around and figured it should work. The directions say to spray on a coat, dry for a minute, and repeat 2-3 times. It is supposed to then cure for 1-2 hours.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Mike

[scmhogg]

Mike,

In MoS2, each Mo(IV) center is trigonal prismatic, being bound to six sulfide ligands, each of which is pyramidal. The trigonal prisms are interconnected to give a layered structure, wherein molybdenum atoms are sandwiched between layers of sulfur atoms.

I hope that answers your question.

I copied that out of wiki as I was curious. Loring may be the only one here who understands what that means. I did learn a new word though, lubricity. As in: Only MoS2 can "confer the high lubricity" at 350C....

So it seems that your saw will have the best lubricity here.

Sorry to butt in, but I couldn't resist.

Steve

[ars_lurker]

If my saw gets to 350C, I am sure the lubricated status of the saw will be the least of my worries.

The can I have is for bullets and rifle barrels. I found the MSDS on Hoppes website and the only other components are acetone, LPG and acetone. No oil present so I assume it would leave a dry film. I would love to hear from anyone who has used it.

http://www.hoppes.com/msds/3068_MSDS.pdf

On another note, it is a good thing I decided to look at the switch. It looks close to failure. I am going to call sears tomorrow. The pictures don't do it justice. the discolored contact is really trashed. It looks partially melted.

[dbhost]

Yep, that's one nasty looking switch...

[charliex]

That is good stuff. Use it on my bike chains back when I was riding a lot. Kept them from collecting dust and rust.

[LCHIEN]

I have been lax in my saw maintenance lately so it is time to get started. I am using the article by Mr. Frye as my guide and ran into a question I am sure you all can answer.

For the dry-lube everyone recommends, has anyone tried Molybdenum Disulfide dry lubricant?

I was working on the arsenal getting ready for whitetail deer annihilation next week and ran across a spray can of it. I don’t have any other dry-lube around and figured it should work. The directions say to spray on a coat, dry for a minute, and repeat 2-3 times. It is supposed to then cure for 1-2 hours.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Mike

Moly disulfide has been an industrial dry lube for ages. But I've never used it so I have no comments. It's probably fine if you have it. I hear it embeds itself in the metal or something... On my saw I just use paste wax. These parts move very slowly. No drying time and I've got the paste wax for its other uses. (finishing WW projects and waxing tool tops.)

Have to laugh at SCMHoggs post... I thought for a moment, did I aleady answer this one? And heck I didn't understand it.

[ars_lurker]

Wow, Sears is a nice bunch. They refuse to replace the switch and want to charge me $15 for a new one.