Blade Preference

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  • Jack1064
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2008
    • 36

    #1

    Blade Preference

    I want to get a new blade because I bought my saw used and I believe the blade is the original and also I want a new one. I dont want to spend a fortune, so what is the best blade for the best price in your guys opinions? I want a blade that can both rip and also crosscut.
    Thanks!
  • Carlos
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2004
    • 1893
    • Phoenix, AZ, USA.

    #2
    Hehe, what's the best religion? The best car brand? The best beer? The best ball team?

    Comment

    • Uncle Cracker
      The Full Monte
      • May 2007
      • 7091
      • Sunshine State
      • BT3000

      #3
      For the money, it's hard to beat the Ridge Carbide TS2000TK.

      Comment

      • SARGE..g-47

        #4
        "I want a blade that can both rip and also crosscut"... Jack

        You will have to compromise as a 24 flat tooth is the ripper and a 60 T ATB is the cross-cut guy. I suggest something in a 40 tooth to give you the compromise that will allow a decent job in both, but not maximum performance in either.

        The one Cracker mentioned is a good one.. so are others in 40 T but you mentioned you didn't want to spend a fortune. You know what you are willing to spend.. so being patient and looking around to find a reputable 40 tooth on sale would be wise.

        Ridge.. Forrest.. Freud.. Amana.. CMT.. Tenyru.. etc. etc. are all reputable and have a host of different grades in each line as an auto manufacturer. Some of the guys can give you a better take on the combination blade as I run a dedicated 24 T for ripping and a 72 T on my 12" SCMS for the cross-cut chores.

        Good luck...

        Comment

        • Uncle Cracker
          The Full Monte
          • May 2007
          • 7091
          • Sunshine State
          • BT3000

          #5
          I should have added that, to me, "best price" means "best value" (not "cheapest price"). You can get 40T carbide blades at Harbor Freight, but I wouldn't recommend it. A 40T blade is definitely the best for combo use, and you'll want a thin kerf blade, as the riving knife on a BT is sized for that.

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Super Moderator
            • Dec 2002
            • 21990
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            the 36-T blade that comes with the BT, if that is the saw you have, is actually quite a nice general purpose blade.
            If value is your goal, have it sharpened for around $12 (I think the going rate is around $.33 per tooth) at a good saw sharpening service.
            If however, you are buying a new blade for new blades sake, there are lots of good choices but not better values.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • Knottscott
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2004
              • 3815
              • Rochester, NY.
              • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

              #7
              Jack - I think Carlos has pretty much summed up the "best" factor.

              It's really a matter of preference, but it also depends a lot on what types of things you want to do. In the end, there are several excellent choices at various price points, but you'll need to employ your "executive decision" skills to really get the best for your situation. There really is no single blade that represents the best performance in all situations, but there are some good ones that'll do a very good job in most applications.

              ~ $30: It's tough to beat the value of the Freud LU86R010 for ~ $31 shipped after Amazon's 25% off Freud discount. Holbren's got two good choices in the same price range that both have thicker kerf...the Tenryu RS25540 mid kerf (0.118"), and the Oshlun 40T full kerf (0.125")...use "BT310" discount code.

              ~ $40: The Freud LU88R010 is one of my favorites...a 60T TK, labeled as a crosscut blade, but features a 15&#176; rake that allows it to rip quite respectably to ~ 6/4", making it a very good general purpose blade with a cut that's even cleaner than my 40T WWII. It's an excellent compliment to a 24T TK bulk rip blade like the LU87, or Amana A.G.E. that Holbren sells, or even the Freud TK206. If funds are really tight and you like the two blade approach, the TK406 and TK206 will get you about 95% of the performance for < $50 combined, or you can mix the better quality of the LU88 with the TK206's heavy ripping ability.

              ~ $65: Infinity Combomax Lite - 50T ATB/R TK...excellent all around premium quality blade.

              > $75: Forrest WWII 40T TK, Forrest WWII 30T TK, Ridge Carbide TS2000 TK. The Forrest 30T is an impressive all around performer if you cut much in the way of thick or exotic hardwoods where clean cut with a low chance of burning is needed....it even crosscuts surprisingly well. The 30T is also a good compliment to the LU88 with a bit more overlap in capability if you don't mind spending ~ $125 for your blades.
              Last edited by Knottscott; 02-20-2008, 05:31 AM.
              Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

              Comment

              • Gator95
                Established Member
                • Jan 2008
                • 322
                • Atlanta GA
                • Ridgid 3660

                #8
                Nice blade comparison Dustmight!

                How do you think the results in that test would hold up for a saw like the BT3K or Ridgid 2400 instead of the 1.75HP hybrid the author used?

                Comment

                • Jack1064
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Jan 2008
                  • 36

                  #9
                  What I meant?

                  When I said best blade for the price, I meant best value, I dont want a piece of junk and am willing to spend a little bit, so best value. Hey Im a college student I cant be dropping a hundred on a blade! Im sure you guys know what I mean.

                  Comment

                  • Uncle Cracker
                    The Full Monte
                    • May 2007
                    • 7091
                    • Sunshine State
                    • BT3000

                    #10
                    Would you rather spend $80 once, or $30 every year? Cheaper blades are cheaper for a reason. If you watch the sales, you can often get a better blade on sale for $50 or so. Still the best way to go.

                    Comment

                    • Knottscott
                      Veteran Member
                      • Dec 2004
                      • 3815
                      • Rochester, NY.
                      • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Gator95
                      Nice blade comparison Dustmight!

                      How do you think the results in that test would hold up for a saw like the BT3K or Ridgid 2400 instead of the 1.75HP hybrid the author used?
                      Thanks Gator....Probably pretty similar since they're all capable of spinning a blade with low runout and reasonable power, though the direct drive on the 2400 might introduce a trace more vibration in the results...

                      Jack - For a college student with a BT3 looking for a decent all around low cost blade, I'd definitely go for an LU86, unless you don't want a thin kerf. It's not a "cheap" blade by any means, and you give up surprisingly little considering the large price difference from a top tier blade. It's affordable, versatile, and gives more than acceptable results (by my standards anyway). The C4 carbide should hold an edge well, can be sharpened for many times, and should tide you over nicely until you're in a better position to grab a true premium blade. If $30 is still out of reach, the Avanti TK306 is < $18 shipped if you add a $2 item to the order to get free s/h. If that's still out of reach, I'm willing to help out a starving student....just let me know.
                      Last edited by Knottscott; 02-20-2008, 09:23 AM.
                      Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                      Comment

                      • SARGE..g-47

                        #12
                        A couple of qestions for anyone... What is Holgren's web-site address. I have searched here and don't find it!

                        Has anyone had any experience with the Amana Premier PR 1040 40 T combo now priced at $52?

                        Anyone had experiecne with the Tenyru RS-25536 DBN (36 T) @ $40 or..

                        Tenyru RS 25540 40 T @ $39...

                        And general experience with FS blades...

                        .... ??? ....

                        Any help would be most appreciative.. even if you have used Amana or Tenyru as those tow lines are two that I have little experience with..

                        Off to build a base for a chest....

                        Comment

                        • Uncle Cracker
                          The Full Monte
                          • May 2007
                          • 7091
                          • Sunshine State
                          • BT3000

                          #13
                          Hey Sarge, it's Holbren... holbren.com

                          Comment

                          • Knottscott
                            Veteran Member
                            • Dec 2004
                            • 3815
                            • Rochester, NY.
                            • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                            #14
                            Originally posted by SARGE..g-47
                            ...
                            Has anyone had any experience with the Amana Premier PR 1040 40 T combo now priced at $52?

                            Anyone had experiecne with the Tenyru RS-25536 DBN (36 T) @ $40 or..

                            Tenyru RS 25540 40 T @ $39...

                            And general experience with FS blades...

                            .... ??? ....

                            Any help would be most appreciative.. even if you have used Amana or Tenyru as those tow lines are two that I have little experience with..

                            Off to build a base for a chest....
                            Hi ya Sarge - I've got a Tenryu RS25540. Nice blade for the price. It has an unusual "mid kerf" at ~ 0.118", and also uses an unusual ATAF tooth configuration (alternating top alternating face)....kind of an ATB that alternates the angle of the faces, which is an interesting idea. It's not at the level of WWII, Ridge Carbide, or even their Gold Medal, but is a well spent $30 from Holbren. The RS25550 50T is a step up IMHO but also costs a bit more.
                            Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                            Comment

                            • SARGE..g-47

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Uncle Cracker
                              Hey Sarge, it's Holbren... holbren.com
                              Thanks for the reply and correction of Holbren's name, Cracker.. I'm not to "swuft" at times as in "most of the time".

                              Up for a short coffee break as I'm going past the mid-nite hour in the shop to-nite. I got interested in what's out there in 40 tooth blades as I'm considering one as a between blade for a few pieces. I run into a few cases after I do initial ripping with a 24 T where I don't need an ultra smooth edge on some interior components when sizing down to exact working widths. That led to thinking a 40 T would be a compromise without having to take it to the jointer which I have to roll out from the rear shop.

                              If it is suitable.. I could just switch from the 24 T to the 40 T after I rip and size it all down for that occasional rip smoother than a 24 T delivers but not glass smooth as I can get on the jointer or with a jointer plane.

                              It would save a few minutes, but again.. I'm only thinking at the moment. A few of these 40 T are reasonable enough to afford trying it just to see.

                              Again... thanks very much...
                              Last edited by Guest; 02-20-2008, 07:12 PM.

                              Comment

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