Anyone have the long rip fence?

[LinuxRandal]

I am trying to find out its length and if it is the same profile as the regular rip fence.

Thanks

[SARGE..g-47]

I was not aware there was a long rip fence for the BT series, LR. But... why would you need one is the question that puzzles me?

[LCHIEN]

The long rip/miter fence accessory sold by Ryobi is a longer piece of the same extrusion as the miter fence and the rip fence (which are both the same, too). Thus the profile is an exact match. Can't remember the exact length.

I always thought it was a bit too costly.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

41", not including the plastic tips.

- Lonnie

[MilDoc]

Cheapest price I found was $87. Decided I didn't need it for as little as I'd probably use it. You can extend both yourself with parts a lot cheaper. Some folks have shown this on this site.

[jackellis]

why would you need one is the question that puzzles me?

I agree. It's been a bit too cold to be working in an unheated shop these last two weeks but I just finished building a short fence for a different saw and I think it's going to avoid scoring on cuts caused by the back of the blade. Sarge also makes the case that a short fence reduces the potential for kickback because there's no pressure on the stock as it passes by the back of the blade.

[SARGE..g-47]

I agree. It's been a bit too cold to be working in an unheated shop these last two weeks but I just finished building a short fence for a different saw and I think it's going to avoid scoring on cuts caused by the back of the blade. Sarge also makes the case that a short fence reduces the potential for kickback because there's no pressure on the stock as it passes by the back of the blade.

I will say Jack, that I would slip my "short" fence off to an occasional piece of ply which is rare... very rare for me as I use solid wood 99.9% in what I build. I thought it would aid guidance as sheets are pretty wide. And ply is laminated layers of cross-grain then long grain which should eliminate any stress that can be released to cause a problem.

But I was reminded by Richard Jones (WW teacher in England) that it made no difference as once completely severed... it's completely severed just as on sold wood. And... with that theory in mind... I had a small kick-back about 6 months ago with some ply from HD. I normally get any ply from the same source that I purchase cabinet grade solid stock, which is excellent.

But... it appears that some of the stuff that is coming in from China is a bit squirrelly. This stuff stressed on me and hit the fence well after the cut as I did not have the "short" fence on. I was able to control it as I have an over-head crown guard.. use a spring-board and keep my knee within a micro second of the kill switch.. and am very attentive to the entire process of what's happening.

So... at this point of the game, it's "short" fence 100% of the time or the TS won't be turned on in my shop. Final Answer!

Regards...

[jgrobler]

I made a long rip fence (66") that fits over the stock fence a few years back to rip long stock. but after reading the posts a week or so ago, learned that was not a good idea, so I will follow Sarge's lead and use a short fence in the future.

[niki]

So... at this point of the game, it's "short" fence 100% of the time or the TS won't be turned on in my shop. Final Answer!

Regards...

Hi SARGE

On the other hand I love the long fence.......before the blade, as it gives very good and stable support for the Infeed part...

Regards
niki

[LinuxRandal]

Good to know that it is a longer version of the rip fence (slot issue for jigs only on one side then).

While one could easily make one, and do like Niki does, the fence could also play a non table saw role for me. I am an EZ Smart user, and am trying to decide on how I want to build my Bridge (table), in the shop. I have a few options I am considering, but one of them involves the table being out behind the BT, and then using something like the long rip fence, as a long rip fence for the Bridge.

I also am considering using it with the SMT for a miter gauge setup for the Bridge.

Too many option right now, I need measurements, to try to draw things out and figure out what fits the shop and my style of projects and working.

Thanks all

[LCHIEN]

The manual for the long miter/rip fence:
http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/i...00_218_ENG.pdf

its 41 inches long. the kit contains a lot of parts besides the extrusion. All the parts to do the miter fence including angle indicator, pivot, the ends, except the black holder and knob and bolt. Also includes an under-holder to support longer pieces off the SMT and an adjustable stop and knob.

The rip fence attachment is by brackets that go across and use the t-slots atop the rip fence to connect.

The 41" bar itself is ryobi p/n 969958-001 but does not seem to be available thru sears parts. (the ~22-inch extrusion for the rip fence is avaiable as a replacement part for $18 at sears parts)

Sears has the accessory for $87 and M&D mower have it for $76 (Ryobi p/n
4060300)

[JimD]

I put a piece of melamine about 36 inches long on the face of the regular fence. I see no big reason for a short fence and I like a long one. I agree with Nicki that infeed support is more necessary but keeping things straight as it leaves is also a good idea. If you are concerned about kickback, hang onto your wood (or use a good push-stick if the piece is narrow). I also have a wheeled clamp-on piece which works well to pull the work into the fence and keep it from shifting into the blade if you momentarily turn loose of it. Keeping our rip fence adjusted parallel to the blade is also necessary to avoid burning and risking kickback.

My bottom line is a long fence is better but must be used correctly. Maybe a short fence is more forgiving to mis-adjustment or bad technique but I do not see an advantage if the fence is correctly adjusted and you push the work smoothly through the blade. Added margin can be had through an anti-kickback add-on.

Jim

[SARGE..g-47]

Hi SARGE

On the other hand I love the long fence.......before the blade, as it gives very good and stable support for the Infeed part...

Regards
niki
*****************

And your long front fence is still a "short" fence as I see it, Niki. But you knew what I meant. You could have a 15' fence on the in-bound side if the task warranted it.. but I notice your long fence stops before center of blade so I still call it a short fence. U.S. terms deems long as beyond the blade as about all U.S fences with the exception of the Uni-fence which is designed similar to a Euro.

But some the U.S. table-saws had a short fence in the 20's-30's. And you can add some of them had a riving knife also. But Delta came along and designed the Uni-saw and about all U.S manufacturers followed suit as OSHA here set there standard off that popular saw.

Couldn't agree more about a push stick with narrow pieces but... I use a push stick with all pieces regardless of width. I have Red lines drawn on my saw 8" in front of the blade. When my hand gets to RED LINE.. the push stick gets used period. Got it covered left with spring-board and right with fence.. upward with crown guard anchored with aircraft grade steel bolts.. and I Keep the Lane clear till the blade comes to a complete stop.

With all that.. could I still get a kick-back? You bet I can and I have.

Have a good one over there Nike and see ya...

[niki]

Hi SARGE

You know, this riving knife and short fence subject came up in a few forums and at some points I wanted to say......."Psssst, I have a secret to tell you...the riving knife and the short fence are not exactly "Euro patent"...they were in use long time ago in USA...don't tell anyone" ... but, I could not prove it. Now that you said it, I have good enough bases.

Yeap, you are correct, my short fence is a little bit too long but when I'm using a sled, I like it a bit longer...

BTW, nice "feather board" you made there...I like the "out of the box" thinking

As for push sticks, blocks and shoes, my "red line" is usually the table edge.
Here is my "collection" for TS and router table...

Best Regards
niki

[LinuxRandal]

Hi SARGE

You know, this riving knife and short fence subject came up in a few forums and at some points I wanted to say......."Psssst, I have a secret to tell you...the riving knife and the short fence are not exactly "Euro patent"...they were in use long time ago in USA...don't tell anyone" ... but, I could not prove it. Now that you said it, I have good enough bases.

Niki, I bet you would find your examples over at OWWM.com. I know the Shopsmith is one example of a older riving knife.