Anyone have the long rip fence?

[SARGE..g-47]

The "feather-board" is actually a "spring-board" Niki, due to it's "spring action".. and I use one on the TS and router table. And thank you for the compliment on "out of the box thinking" as sometimes that's where one has to go to find solutions as you know.

Nice push sticks shown there as I have a variety and a variety are often called for. American Vermont makes a nice, cheap thin push shoe. I usually make my own long handled ones on a band-saw as I like to contour the finger grips for my hand.

I think an important safety isssue that is often over-looked is extention supports. If you notice the pictures I posted, I have an in-bound extention that rides in a LV twin screw vise on my work-bench on the fore side of the saw. I often rip 10' -14' lenghts in a one-man-show. The inbound side needs support and so does the out-bound side. In that picture you do not see any on the out-bound side, but that was for a picture.

The out-bound in my case is I open the outer shop door and quickly set up the Rigid flip top stands with friction surfaces to support the out-going severed stock. If the stock is over 12', I will also tack a support fence on the in-bound extention to help guide into the blade.

So.. I do sometimes use a longer in-bound fence of a sort as handling 10' lenghts alone can be a bit squirrelly without proper planning. But with the exception of a power-feeder which I cannot justify as a non commercial, I would rather do it that way than have someone help guide the lenght behind me. Two poeple would require absolute perfect harmony of motion or the stock is likely to get a slight twist in the wrong direction that would give "kick-back" the slight opportunity that it looks for.

Regards...

[niki]

LinuxRandel
Thank you for the link. I just Googled and there are many OWWM, I'll go through to see what's new....actually what's old...

SARGE
Well, I'm not cutting 10' boards...the maximum was 6' but, I "discovered" that an Infeed and Outfeed tables are priceless and are adding a lot to the safety features of any table saw.

Here is my table saw in all it's "glory"....the Infeed and the Outfeed tables are "clicked" above the rails and are supported on one hinged leg and I can move them left/right to support mainly the wider part of a board.

The notch in the Infeed table is for the rip fence T

The sliding table can accommodate up to 39" wide boards and I can move the rails left/right to get more support to one of the sides.

The board on the right side of the rails is at the same level as the table to give better support for crosscutting long boards as on the second pic.

And....it costs around $2000...you know....Euro saw = Euro prices

Regards
niki

[SARGE..g-47]

Nice set-up indeed, Niki.. It is rare for me to use sheet goods as solids are my thing. But.. your saw with slider is the way to go if you are a wide-body user. The drawback is the foot-print if you have a small shop as most of us do.

With what little sheets I use, a Pro-grip and circular gets the call to reduce them under 4' where I can get them on the TS to rip. But most of my TS is ripping as I do a lot and in some long lenghts on occasion. I purposely chose the 30" rails to save space as I have a ton of machinery that bleeds over into the rear shop. But the cutting gets done in the front with the cyclone and all are mobile to make that possible.

Nice in-feed and out-feed. They are extremely valuable, especially in a one man show without power feed. And I got a lesson from Richard Jones who teaches in England about having friction surfaces as opposed to ball bearing or rollers. He presented his hand which has 4 fingers due to stock slipping off ball bearing supports while using a 12 HP Wadkins. No more words had to be spoken and I followed his advice every since.

Am busy in the shop.. so will close. But... what brand saw is it as I almost purchased a Start-rite at one point, but I stumbled across the now modified Uni-saw I have factory re-conditioned and the company selling them let me have it for $999 as a favor for demio'ing BS for them at an Atlanta WW Show. I couldn't refuse at the price as re-conditions usually are sold at around $1399in top shape.

Regards from over here to over there...

[niki]

Hi SARGE

Well the foot print is not so big......if you remove everything around the saw.

This is my garage at day time


And every night


Usually, I don't have to deal with 4' x 8' good sheets. We have different "patent" here in Poland.
You don't buy all the sheet (you can of course) you buy cut pieces when I say piece, I mean 24" x 35" board or alike.

So one day I go there and put down my "cutting list" and the next day, all the pieces are delivered to my home.
Of course I have to pay some 50 Cents for each cut piece so, when I made my kitchen, I ordered some 100 pieces, I paid extra $50 but no big sheets, no dust and it's cut perfectly by a new CNC saw (they told me that it costs $70,000) with scoring blade and delivered (free) to my home.

My table saw is called Elektra Beckum (Metabo group) PK 255 but from a few months ago everything is Metabo...2500 W input power and very quiet induction motor (80db).
The sliding table is "clicked" on the rail in a few seconds and has a folding adjustable height leg.


Best regards
niki

[SARGE..g-47]

Almost missed your post Niki, as I visit sporadically and it moved off the main screen. I happened to notice it in E-mail alert and had to dig it up.

Yep... it's obviously a garage. I threw our vehicles out years ago as the weather is somewhat mild here in Atlanta.

You have made excellent use of your space as the the fold up extentions would indicate. Funny how that regardless of what space we have.. where there is will, there is a way and we make it work to the best of our ablity. A feather in all that do it's cap, IMO.

Again nice garage.. nice shop also! ha.. ha...

Regards..

[LinuxRandal]

But.. your saw with slider is the way to go if you are a wide-body user.
With what little sheets I use, a Pro-grip and circular gets the call to reduce them under 4' where I can get them on the TS to rip. But most of my TS is ripping as I do a lot and in some long lenghts on occasion. I purposely chose the 30" rails to save space as I have a ton of machinery that bleeds over into the rear shop. But the cutting gets done in the front with the cyclone and all are mobile to make that possible.

Regards from over here to over there...

Hi SARGE

Well the foot print is not so big......if you remove everything around the saw.


Usually, I don't have to deal with 4' x 8' good sheets. We have different "patent" here in Poland.
You don't buy all the sheet (you can of course) you buy cut pieces when I say piece, I mean 24" x 35" board or alike.

So one day I go there and put down my "cutting list" and the next day, all the pieces are delivered to my home.
Of course I have to pay some 50 Cents for each cut piece so, when I made my kitchen, I ordered some 100 pieces, I paid extra $50 but no big sheets, no dust and it's cut perfectly by a new CNC saw (they told me that it costs $70,000) with scoring blade and delivered (free) to my home.

Best regards
niki

Thanks to diet and exercise, I am no longer a wide body user!

Niki, I know you have said if you had (insert) available to you at the price/availability we do, you wouldn't have to make (x) jig.
Well, in this instance, getting you sheets precut AND delivered, is something I think a lot of US here in the USA are jealous of. (at least this hobbiest) It would dramatically cut down our use/needs of sawboards/jigs, etc., and allow us to focus on the other parts (or just getting the project done).
Cabinetman, as a shop, would it be worth it professionally, to have your plywood panels, delivered precut to the sizes (or close to for final triming/fitting) you need?

[SARGE..g-47]

I will let Cabinetman answer appropriately with a qualified answer, but will add something as my local supplier's main business is the supply of cabinet shops. The larger shops will generallly by in quantities of at least 50-100 full sheets as their are price breaks at various quantity levels.

From my knowledge of the small shops, they buy fewer... but usually full sheets as regardless of size of shop, you are going to use them eventually. And you can cut sheets "down" to size as needed.. but once cut, can't make them any larger if needed. And.. I see very little waste in what they do.

Also.. Suwanee Lumber (my supplier as I get contractors price) will cut them down if you had a need as long as it is quantity. But.. it would not be cost effective to do small quantities as the general public buyer as you and I would use.

Lowe's and HD locally do carrry 2 x 2.. 2 x 4.. 4 x 4 sheets in birch.. oak.. MDF and standard yellow pine. But the grade has gone down-hill dramatically in the last 3 or 4 years with the exception of MDF. I keep a full sheet of birch, oak and MDF on hand in my rack. And several sheets of 1/4".. 1/2" and 3/4" birch.. oak.. MDF in 2 x 4 and 4 x 4 to save having to pick it up if needed.

Hope that will shed a little light on what possibly might be a local or regional thing as I am in Atlanta and have no clue what happens outside a 60-90 mile radius.

[niki]

It would dramatically cut down our use/needs of sawboards/jigs, etc., and allow us to focus on the other parts (or just getting the project done).

Actually, I don't buy 4' x 8'. I'm paying $6 pet square meter (10.7 square foot) of Melamine and add 50 Cents for every cut piece but I don't care about their left overs.
The owner told me that they are cutting also for many small shops and for themselves (they are also making ordered kitchens and cabinets).

I also don't have planer/thicknesser, I have a few guys in the villages that have this German 24" planer/thicknesser and for $20 (and 2 cans of beer) he planes for me one cubic meter (35.3 cubic foot)to whatever thickness I tell him....but he takes the wood chips...

For me as an amateur, those services are great help and as you said, I can concentrate on the other parts of woodworking and I don't need to buy expensive machines.

But, you are correct, with your prices in USA, I think that I would "squeeze" some planer/thiknesser and band saw into my garage...

Regards
niki

[hermit]

[QUOTE=SARGE..g-47;326605]

Lowe's and HD locally do carrry......... But the grade has gone down-hill dramatically in the last 3 or 4 years with the exception of MDF. QUOTE]

This is so true. I've decided I have to find somewhere else to buy plywood. Lowes recently started carrying plywood with more layers, and I initially thought it was better "cabinet grade" stuff. Turns out to be garbage. Warps, delaminates and is nothing but a headache. I've had enough.

Todd

[JimD]

I buy 3/4 sheet goods at the big box stores most of the time. I find the "Chinese" plywood poor with voids and a tendency to warp. It is stamped that it comes from China and the layers are noticably not straight if you look at the edge.

I prefer poplar plys and can sometimes find it at the big box stores. Softwood plys are better if the voids are few - I think the wood was better they peeled to get the plys and it seems to warp noticably less.

If I want really good plywood I go see the local hardwood dealer and buy some baltic birch.

I break down sheet goods with a circular saw most of the time. I have been hauling them on my little HD trailer and I sometimes just put a cutting table made of criss-crossed 1x4s under the sheet goods while it is still on the trailer and just cut it down before bringing it inside. I cut about 1/4 oversize and then trim to exact dimensions on the BT3100. I don't think I would ever trust somebody else's cutting to anything other than a rough dimension.

Jim