New owner of a used BT3000. I'm also a newbie in woodworking (furniture and ect.). I want to start off by thanking every member of the bt3000 community on this forum. Your advice and knowledge is invaluable to someone like me. I have completely restored my bt3000 and LOVE this saw and it's unique design with the SMT. I've always preferred older metal (USA) tools instead of modern plastic junk. I have a quick question..... I think my saw was manufactured around 1998-2000. Do I need to replace the switch or do I already have the redesigned switch? Thank you for your time and help.
BT3100-1 Switch Replacement - No Charge
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Hi glad you are enjoying your saw.
The BT3000 only had a switch problem in the real early first year , I think1993 or so.And it was a two-button switch that was replaced.
1998-2000 (you can see the date code on the nameplate, a four digit number first two are the year and the last two are the week 01-52
Anyway switch problems came again in some BT3100 models after the BT3000 ended production.
So it would seem you have no switch issues.
You might want to get my FAQ (frequently asked questions) which you can download in the first few posts in the BT3x00 related discussions forum under the title FAQ.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Wayne and the company he represents are committed to excellent customer service long after the sale.Donate to my Tour de Cure
marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©
Head servant of the forum
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I've tried contacting Wayne through email over the past month and haven't heard back and the phone number goes to an automated message says that they are unavailable 'at the moment'. I'm guessing that the replacement switches may no longer be available.Comment
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Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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That's quite the run, it's pretty fair for Wayne to be retired. I had thought that the phone number was a company number though. But I have contacted Ryobi support and will update when I hear back from them.
Thanks!Comment
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I recently tried to contact Wayne via email and phone and got no response. I then contacted customer service and they couldn’t find any info about Wayne and additionally the person I contacted didn’t know of the recall so he had to talk with his supervisor who also didn’t know Wayne or about the switch problem but a day later I got an email stating that three switches were being shipped to me.
I had three saws with two button switches with the serial numbers in the affected range and ryobi wants them replaced even though I am not the original owner and I was up front with them that I was parting out saws (or reselling saw cabinets) with the recalled switch. The end result is that the saw cabinets and/or the motor with power cord/switch will have a replaced switch.
I was advised that the way to get the switches replaced is to contact Ryobi customer service by email or phone and give them the serial number of the saw and they will replace it. Go to ryobi ,parts, power tools and then click on customer service and you should get the right contact. (Or just go up two posts -lchien - and he has the URL FOR CUSTOMER SERVICE. As I am on my iPad I don’t know how to copy and paste on iPad - that’s jus part of being an old fart, eh?
As far as replacing motors I think it is a good idea to keep the failed motor for parts as I have seen a motor on eBay with stripped threads selling for a very low price and it might be worth swapping out front ends compared with installing a helicoil insert after drilling out the stripped threads. Additionally I have seen a few armetures listed on eBay. Just a thought but I haven’t gotten in to disassembling or working on motors yet so I may be opening a Pandora’s box when I tackle one that I got in pieces and one with some noise when power is appliedComment
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Thanks for the update ballard770.just another brick in the wall...
Boycott McAfee. They placed an unresponsive popup on my pc.Comment
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After going through Ryobi's customer service page and creating a support ticket, I was contacted by Tim Beasley. After confirming my shipping information / serial number, the switch was sent out and I have now received it. There were no issues even with my being in Canada. Great support from Ryobi!Comment
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Good afternoon everyone,
Just an FYI to the Ryobi switch issue:
I had an issue with my BT3100 table saw continuing to running after the switch was pressed to stop it. I contacted Ryobi, assuming this was the infamous switch problem, by attempting to place a trouble ticket. Their website for this process is extremely glitchy and I was never successfully able to place one.
I did send an e-mail to the company and a quick response was received (Dec 5) from a Sr Safety Rep from the TTi group (maybe Ryobi is outsourcing the safety issues to a 3rd party??).
It was explained that switches are no longer available. "Our 3rd parts supplier purchased 5 years worth of parts after a tool goes out of production. We had a small quality here, but exhausted the supply." I was not overly surprised, as they cannot stock parts forever for something like this.
RobComment
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After many years of trusty service, my BT3100 switch finally failed and in the on position. I was able to take it apart and get it working again, but it only lasted another dozen or so cycles before failing again. I went on Amazon and found that the Ryobi switch is NLA, but another similar switch had a customer review stating that they were able to use the original Ryobi BT3100 switch housing and replace the electrical contact portion with the Amazon part. Anybody here try that? Looks like a decent solution for less than $6.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DSBWI6...v_ov_lig_dp_itComment
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Hi Jeff.
Another option (which I just purchased for my failed switch) is the Rockler Safety Power Tool Switch. It has 2 cords: the female plug going to the table saw power cord and the male cord plugs into the power source. There is no wiring, and I did not remove the old switch. The cords are 14 gauge and switch is 15A/110V. I drilled 2 holes on the left side of my BT3100-1 saw and attached with screws, as it makes it easier to turn on and off. This is a lot bigger and safer in my opinion than the original switch that malfunctions. It has worked great so far.
Rob
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