Router for the 21829

[lum]

I read somewhere in the BT3 forum that the 21829 is drilled for Craftsman routers only. Now, assuming that's true .... 'cuz I don't have it yet and won't 'til a week from Friday, so I don't know ....

The older Skil plunger here likely won't fit.

The very much older Stanley router likely won't fit. It's one in which the entire motor screws in and out of the frame to adjust depth.

So, to use the router hole in the 21829 will likely require my buying a Craftsman router.

Would I be better off buying a stand-alone router base that allows the mounting of one of my current router motors?

Now, I don't much like the Skil plunge router and the old Stanley needs bearings again. If the Skil was bolted to a router table permanently, that would be OK. I'd put bearings in the Stanley and buy spare safety glasses.

So, it seems I will be buying either a table or a router.

Thoughts, please.

[eccentrictinkerer]

I just mounted my PC 690 router in my 21829 last week.

I drilled 3 holes from the underside of the router mounting accessory plate to match the router base. I had to eyeball the centering because I couldn't remember any math tricks. I was about a 1/16" off center.

I countersunk the screw holes on the top of the table. It looks good and works perfectly.

I'll try and post some pics later.

Good luck.

P.S. Thanks to all the folks who helped me out with a similar question recently.

[jon_ramp]

It is true that the saw table is drilled for a Craftsman or Ryobi router. I mounted a DeWalt by replacing the clear router base with my own made from Plexiglas and drilling holes in it to match the table. Works fine. I have since been told that Plexiglas can shatter and it is better to use polycarbonate (Lexan).

[Knottscott]

As the others mentioned, just drill new holes in the baseplate of whatever router you want to use.

[LCHIEN]

The 21829, unlike the BT3100 does not use a mounting plate but the router-holes are in the table itself.
The table is aluminum and so is very easy to drill.
Having a separate router table is better, but not always the most space or money economic solutions so there are good reasons for using the BT2/21829 for a router.
To avoid having to buy what I call the second tier routers like the Ryobi or the craftsman, I would be prepared to drill the table on the 21829 to use the router of my choice. Use the removable scuffplate from the router as a template laid over the table and mark. Absolute centering is not required, an eyeball-centering should be OK.

let us know if you need some aluminum drilling tips.

[LinuxRandal]

Are you using the 21829's router table because of space or mobility needs?

If so, you can drill it's plate and mount one of your routers to it. Or another option, would be to see if you can be lucky enough, go to your local Sears and see if they have the old Craftsman rebadged Bosch 1617. They called it 1617-12, or 130.something. It has the Craftsman bolt patern.


Another option, if your seriously thinking of building the router table, and have the space, I would first hit your public library and check out Bill Hyltons Woodworking with the router (has some different table ideas and plans). Then I would order a Freud FT2200 while the bargains are out there one them (3 1/4HP plunge router) and use it in your homemade table. Use your others freehand, till you get another bargain on a 1/2 bit capable router (the skill may be so by now, I don't know).

[lum]

I'll try to answer all in one post.

LinuxRandal ... With the budget going poof on the new TS, there's the cost savings of using my current router(s) on the TS. But, a garage with two cars leaves little room. (Luckily, one car is our old Miata. I've gotta get the backbone to toss stuff. Let's start with Judith's Yes, space is an issue.

LCHIEN & Dustmight ... Drilling the aluminum advice will be very welcome.

jon-ramp ... I've probably escaped an accident using a homemade adapter of acrylic so I could learn to do dovetails. Couple of days ago Jerry's Hardware in Eugene finally received the proper one I'd order 6 months back.

eccentrictinkerer ... Thank you for your encouragement.

[LCHIEN]

Thie following is excerpted from the BT3 FAQ (Which I believe i sent to you a few days ago, no?) but which I'll reproduce here, on selecting a router and drilling the plate. Same thing applies.

What Router will fit the table?
The hole pattern in the plate in old BT3 router mounting kits fit only Ryobi routers. These have
the large center hole flanked by four smaller holes. It’s said that new Ryobi router mounting
plates come predrilled with “universal patterns” which may have 10-12 holes. If you do not have
a Ryobi router and have an old plate it is a simple matter to use the removable scuffplate from
your router as a template to mark and drill the appropriate holes in your mounting plate.
Aluminum drills easily with a sharp twist bit and slow to moderate drill speeds but you should
use a center punch to start the hole to prevent bit wander. Using a smaller bit then enlarging the
hole also keeps the hole centered. If your bit is sharp the aluminum will peel off in thin strips and
make a clean hole. A dull bit will cause chips to come off rather than strips. Most routers mount
with 3 or 4 holes and flat head screws (usually you can use the ones used to mount the plastic
scuffplate you removed). Countersink the plate from the top for the flat head screws. You can
also make a mounting plate from plastic or plywood. Patterns for the plate are available at
BT3central.com. Note that big bits, like Horizontal panel-raising bits, are bigger than the hole in
the BT3 auxiliary table. This can cause some problems, but generally, you should only use those
bits with variable speed routers rated over 2 HP anyway,
What router do you recommend?
Generally the Ryobi and Craftsman and Skil routers are considered beginner’s routers and do not
have the features and quality of the more expensive routers below, but they are cheaper. Note the
average number of routers owned by survey respondents was 2.5 routers so it’s not uncommon to
buy second and even third routers as you become more experienced.
The question often arises which router and these seem to be the top-quality forum favorites (in
alphabetic order) with multiple interchangeable fixed and plunge bases, electronic variable speed
and ½ and ¼”collets, and around 2 to 2.25 HP and priced around $180 to 250:

•

Bosch 1617EVSPK 2.25 HP

•

Dewalt DW618PKV

•

Makita RF1101

•

Porter Cable 893 and 895VSPK

The Ryobi RE1803BK with 3 bases seems to be a popular value-priced alternative router with
features like those above for prices in the $90-120 range at Home Depot. Rod Kirby highly
recommends the Triton router. The Porter Cable 690 series was the standard but even with its
improvements, its basic design dates back 15 years or more, so, unless you get a great deal, get
one of the newer models above.
The following are forum favorite top quality plunge-only models and may have higher power and
weight (making them less suitable for hand-held work when desired) than the above mentioned:
•

Hitachi M12V – 3 HP very big and powerful

•

DeWalt DW621 and 625 (2 and 3 HP, respectively)
• Porter Cable 8529 2 HP

[lum]

Clearly, I need to re-read the FAQ [COLOR="Red"]AND print it.

Thank you, Loring. All the responses are highly encouraging.

Liam

[lum]

I'm guessing that you can leave the PC 690 hanging under the TS when it is tipped over for storage. True?

One of Judith's (SWMBO) concerns relieved when she saw the pix of the 21829 up against the wall, out of the way was whether she could keep her spot in the garage.

Liam

[LCHIEN]

Liam, if you make a typo, just go back and edit your post... you can do that. Don't hav to make a new post. Edit is an option when you view the post - available only to the author of the post.

[big tim]

Bosch 1619 mounted directly to the routertable of my BT3000(doing some "thickness planing" here) I simply drilled and countersunk the holes to match the baseplate of the Bosch.


Tim

[eccentrictinkerer]

Bosch 1619 mounted directly to the routertable of my BT3000(doing some "thickness planing" here) I simply drilled and countersunk the holes to match the baseplate of the Bosch.


Tim

Great idea! Now I, too, have a giant router base plate. Thanks for the photo. You just solved a problem for me.

You learn more here by accident than other sites by design!

[dkerfoot]

I've got the 21829 and a PC690. One of the problems is that the accessory table has deep "bosses" and a thinner plate than the older tables for the BT3's.

You can either mount a sub-plate of some kind or do what I did: I bought a used BT3 accessory table and drilled it for mounting my router. The ridges make it a hair higher than the other tables, but it doesn't matter for routing operations.

As for leaving the router in place while folding and stowing the 21829 - you can, but it makes the saw easy to tip. Counter-intuitively, it makes it want to tip face first - not good!

One of the nice things about having the extra table is I just remove it and stick it (router still attached) on a shelf when I am done.

[LinuxRandal]

I've got the 21829 and a PC690. One of the problems is that the accessory table has deep "bosses" and a thinner plate than the older tables for the BT3's.

You can either mount a sub-plate of some kind or do what I did: I bought a used BT3 accessory table and drilled it for mounting my router. The ridges make it a hair higher than the other tables, but it doesn't matter for routing operations.

As for leaving the router in place while folding and stowing the 21829 - you can, but it makes the saw easy to tip. Counter-intuitively, it makes it want to tip face first - not good!

One of the nice things about having the extra table is I just remove it and stick it (router still attached) on a shelf when I am done.

Yet another option since the table is thinner. We just had a member who was looking for the aluminum mounting plate for his. He posted in the classifieds (wanted) and was responded to. There is also someone parting out a saw now, and they may have one, that could be mounted between the table and the router base to thicken the top.