Router in BT3 router table?

[tkarlmann]

This may be old hat for some, but I am REALLY gonna put a router in my BT3's router table. I also have the Accessory Kit. I need some tips from been-there-done-that types.

I just picked up the Triton MOF001KC -- based on FW's review of table-intended routers (Jan/Feb 2007). Now: will that unit fit in there and still let me change bits from the top? Most router tables, purchased or shop-built, seem to mount to large rectangular baseplates. These baseplates then go into the router table.

Our BT3 has the round hole, 4 screw mounts, and other accesories. I would like to use the BT3's sliding table and rip fence for the router, but I would also like to maintain the Triton's ability to change bits from the top directly.

Comments, anyone? Am I pushing the BT3's router table too far? I could get what I want just by a hole in a piece of plywood, but floor space is a premium, so I'd rather use the BT3's router table. Help!

[Black wallnut]

First make sure that you use the rear rail clamp to secure the accessory table when ever your router is installed. Second, you probably are already aware of this, you will need to affix a sacrificial board to the rip fence to use it. If you are thinking of trying to use the Ryobi supplied router fence attachments dismiss this idea! IMHO you would be best served by making your own router fence that attaches independently to the rails. There is one featured on a page on my website that although easy to construct may be far more complicated than you actually need. At the least you need a straigh bord as a fence which has been releived for the bit.

[eezlock]

router in BT3 table?

I tried that set up for a short period of time using one of the Sears routers
that I caught on sale for $59.00 three years ago. I didn't like the results too well...everytime I needed to adjust the bit height it was always a struggle
to keep it in adjustment, one time while trying to rout a workpiece with that
setup I even had the router slide from it's setting and drop down to lowest point while running and screwed up the workpiece. That flip lock on the backside wouldn't stay locked in securely.That is when I decided to build a
better benchtop router table, installed a Dewalt 616 in the fixed base, and solved two problems at once! That router table that comes with the BT3
is in my opinion...a starter table, it could stand a lot of improvement and
upgrades to make it a worth while accessory to be used in a saw extension wing. A stand alone router table, be it a benchtop or floor stand type is
a worthwhile investment in time and money well spent. eezlock

[tkarlmann]

Router tables for BT3

Has anyone seen any plans for a router table built to fit the BT3100?

[tkarlmann]

IMHO you would be best served by making your own router fence that attaches independently to the rails. There is one featured on a page on my website that although easy to construct may be far more complicated than you actually need.

Black W.:

Does your router fence attach to the BT3 rails, or is it more general?

[Black wallnut]

Black W.:

Does your router fence attach to the BT3 rails, or is it more general?

I have made a couple that attach to the rails. With my current set up mine does not. Thom2 or Popeye came up with a method that used a t-nut in the front rail and a modified t-bolt in the rear rail and knobs to secure a router fence. Rod Kirby came up with a wood block method years ago which is in the old articles section as "oz/yank router fence" that also is a great idea. Many long time users have found that a router mounted in the Acc table useful. When I built my workdesk that is all I used, although I did make a special table to raise the panels for the doors.

Link to Thom2's router fence pics.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

I use an old 1/4" B&D fixed base and a 1/2" Hitachi M12v in my BT3000 router table. I can drop the motor on the fixed base to change bits. I can lower the Hitachi enough to loosen the collar to change bits without removing it from the table. Neither router will raise up enough to change bits from the top without special bent wrenches. Not the best set up, but I've done it for years.

Re: fence --

I clamp a home made fence to the table on the right side of the router with 6" bar clamps. Glue a couple of wood blocks under the table so the threaded jaw of the bar clamp clears the edge of the accessory table. I used to clamp the fence to the rails, but I like clamping to the table better because if the table moves, the fence will stay in position relative to the router bit. Clamping the fence to the right of the bit for most cuts provides a large work surface on the left side of the bit.

Some type of under table dust collection would be helpful, but I haven't tried to hook up anything yet.

- Lonnie

[scorrpio]

The holes in BT3 accessory table are to connect a router mounting plate. The plate (part of router mount kit) has some holes in it, but it did not fit my Dewalt 618. I had to drill and countersink my own I suppose you should have no problem drilling holes - both in the plate and the accessory table - to both mount the router and use the topside adjust.

The "fence" is junk - I tossed it, and made my own version that clamps onto the rip fence. Also, depending on where you mount it, you can use SMT with the router table as well.

[vaking]

I cannot say anything about Triton - don't have it. Most likely you will be able to mount it to aluminum plate may be with drilling holes for it. Above table height adjustment will certainly require you to drill both aluminum plate and accessory table.
I have/had an older craftsman router and Hitachi M12V in this setup. Hitachi required drilling aluminum plate. Neither has above table height adjustment - somehow I am OK doing it from below the table.
I can change bits from above the table on both. On Hitachi I have a bent wrench which allows me to loosen the bit in the top position. On Craftsman I have a quick-change adapter which allows replacing bits with no wrenches at all. Adapter is not a good idea if this is your main table router. It only works on a secondary router which you use with limited set of bits.
Keep in mind - accessory table has a small opening for the bit. You will not be able to use large bits, like horizontal panel raisers, in this table regardless which router you use.
I agree with everybody about the fence - replacing fence is a first project.
Some mount auxiliary fence to the BT3 native rip fence, I prefer a separate fence mounted to rails.

[Slik Geek]

First make sure that you use the rear rail clamp to secure the accessory table when ever your router is installed.

Uhhh, pardon the ignorance, but what clamp is he writing about? Is it something that comes with the accessory kit? (Which I don't have).

[LCHIEN]

Uhhh, pardon the ignorance, but what clamp is he writing about? Is it something that comes with the accessory kit? (Which I don't have).

yes, comes with the router mounting kit which itself is in the accessory kit.

Just provides a way to lock the auxiliary/router table to the rear rail.
If the rear or the front of the table moves when you have a fence operation and the fence is locked to the rails then you will have an uneven cut. The aux/router table only comes with a front lock as you get the saw.

Some people w/o the kit have made their own, I would not expect to be too hard. Myself, I just use the BT3 aux table for roundovers and such with bearing bits, no fence, so the rear lock is not critical.

[vrbradley]

just a coment or two

I tried something similar to what your talking about...it got me by. I later made my own insert to attach to the rails and built a fense that fits over my saws rip fense...pleased as punch, it makes a small foot print and is handy for me.

[dkerfoot]

Lamb to the Slaughter

I like to keep it simple and use a sacrificial fence. I use the brackets for the included 2-piece fence. Remove the hunks of wood currently attached and screw them to a single piece of flat, straight wood that is the appropriate length & height. Have the fence extend as far out from the rip fence as possible so the router bit can't contact the rip fence (don't use massive panel cutters here! you wouldn't anyway, would you?)

Fire up whichever router bit you are going to use and slowly edge the sacrificial fence into it to create a zero-clearance cutout.

I just use it until it is too chewed up for my taste, then I create another.

Takes about 2 or 3 minutes to connect or remove.

[tkarlmann]

I have table in backwards?

yes, comes with the router mounting kit which itself is in the accessory kit.

Just provides a way to lock the auxiliary/router table to the rear rail.
If the rear or the front of the table moves when you have a fence operation and the fence is locked to the rails then you will have an uneven cut. The aux/router table only comes with a front lock as you get the saw.

Some people w/o the kit have made their own, I would not expect to be too hard. Myself, I just use the BT3 aux table for roundovers and such with bearing bits, no fence, so the rear lock is not critical.

I think the poster refers to the accessory table, which of course does come with the BT. I was confused because he refers to the REAR clamp lock. Mine is a FRONT clamp lock -- or do I have my accessory table in backwards? Darn catch is always in the way of the rip fence! lol!

[tkarlmann]

Pictures!

For vrbradley and dkerfoot can you please post photos of what you have?

Thanks!