Question about Rails

[glassk9s]

First, I'm a noob to this forum. Go easy on me.

I just bought a 3100 and the accessory kit to replace an aging Delta 37-600 that I didn't much like anyway.

One question I have about the sliding rails? Is there some way to know where "home" position is on the rail? If you move the rails left to right, the "tape measure" for the rip fence loses it's "zero" with relation to the blade. Is there an easy way to get the rail back to a known point without having to remeasure everything?

[Bud]

Bud

I ran into the same issue while using my saw. Since I have decided to move my rails from time to time I will just measure from fence to blade everytime I cut a different size. I tend to do this even with fixed rails. Some of the other guys will probably have an easy solution for you. I'm a newbie myself

[LCHIEN]

there's a long standing split in camps amoung those who swear by the tape measure on the rails and those that say they would never trust them.

That argument aside, the easy way for me to return the scale to proper zero is to use a 1" wide reference strip between the rip fence and blade. Slide the rip fence until the strip is trapped with no play but slides freely at both ends of the blade and the rip fence unlocked. Slide the front rail until it reads exactly 1" under the hairline cursor. Lock the rail and then lock the fence make sure it still reads right.

That's it!

[JimD]

I have my BT3100 in a mobile base with extension rails. I move the rails that are attached to the BT3100 fairly regularly for cleaning (my extension rails attach through clamps of the two rails together which must be disconnected to tilt the saw up and clean underneith). As long as I do not move both sets, I just slide the one I moved back up against the one I did not move.

I think you could adapt this principal to a saw without extension rails and without a mobile base. You would have to set up a stop on one end or the other. That would limit your flexibility. Another way do do this would be to scribe a mark on the front rail relative to a fixed position on the saw. You might even want to add a little pointer or other reference position just for this. By returning the rail to the mark, you would be zeroed.

Jim

[Ken Weaver]

I gave up on the rail tape long ago. I move the rails fairly frequently for wide rips, panel cuts etc. It was just too much of a hassle to realign things, not to mention figuring which side of the blade would be the reference point. Whip out the trusty 16' project measuring tape and its done without worrying where the rails are. Just my $.02.

[scorrpio]

The best idea, of course, is to zero your rail precisely, and then scribe a mark on both rail and saw body over one of rail mounting points. Then, you can re-zero the rail in seconds. To be more complete, you can also zero the rail to other side of the blade, and scribe another mark.

[LarryG]

How about a picture?

The best idea, of course, is to zero your rail precisely, and then scribe a mark on both rail and saw body over one of rail mounting points. Then, you can re-zero the rail in seconds.

Could you post a picture showing how you did this, please? I've been wanting to do something like this to my saw, but haven't figured out how to do it (i.e., where to place the marks) and ensure absolute repeatability.

[scorrpio]

Will try not to forget.

[AlanJ]

Welcome to the forums!

I used to try to keep the rail referenced, so I could use it's ruler, but I guess I'm just not disciplined enough to reset it after needing to move the rails. For me, it's easier to just measure to the appropriate side of the blade with a steel rule or tape (for longer measurements).
Also, you'll probably find that you'll just as often not care about the measurement, but more about repeating a previous cut, or matching an existing board etc. So more often than not, I find I use a reference piece to set the fence, and don't even look at the actual measuerement.

[Tom Miller]

The best idea, of course, is to zero your rail precisely, and then scribe a mark on both rail and saw body over one of rail mounting points. Then, you can re-zero the rail in seconds. To be more complete, you can also zero the rail to other side of the blade, and scribe another mark.

Along these lines, before you move your rails, you could attach a fixture to the rail (bottom?) such that it touches the saw body (or something else that doesn't move). Then, when it's time to move the rail back, you have your physical reference.

I should mention that I don't use the tape, though. Another thing that can throw off your tape is the addition of a sacrificial fence, or other such jig or fixture.

Regards,
Tom

[mschrank]

I spent some time getting the rail "zeroed in" when I first set up the saw. A couple of days later I had to readjust the rails for a wide cut. I've never since realigned relative to the blade.

One of the best and often repeated tips in woodworking is to use the same measuring device throughout your project, so it doesn't really make good sense to use it to set the rip fence.

[Black wallnut]

Either I do not understand the question or I'm missing something.

Two ways:

• align the rip fence mark to the rail, lock down only the front part of the fence ; then adjust the rail until the fence touches the blade

• or holding the fence to the blade move the rail to line up the zero and fence indicator line

Either way then tighten rail levers and re-check.

[Ken Weaver]

Mike is right on about a project tape - I have one marked with RED letters and I use it throughout the project and only for projects. I validate any other measuring device to it.

[glassk9s]

Either I do not understand the question or I'm missing something.

Two ways:

• align the rip fence mark to the rail, lock down only the front part of the fence ; then adjust the rail until the fence touches the blade

• or holding the fence to the blade move the rail to line up the zero and fence indicator line

Either way then tighten rail levers and re-check.

What I was asking was not how to initially align the rails/fence to "zero", but rather how to do that repeatedly. You know how the SMT has a flip-down lock to keep the table from sliding forward? I was wondering if there were a similar device (maybe aftermarket) that would allow me to return the rails to a pre-determined position, i.e. "zero". I realize that using the tape on the rail might not be within some folks' window of precision, but for my purposes, it suffices.

[BasementDweller]

I have my rails aligned for zero to be correct. And I use the tape on the rail. I guess the reason I do that is I don't ever move the rails. I guess I didn't understand they were supposed to "freely" move. My rails take a consideralbe amount of effort just to slide them in!?! Then the levers that are supposed to tighten it in place only 1/2 work. They always seem to be too tight or too loose. I took it all apart, when I went through "heck" trying to get my rip fence so it doesn't bind when I lock it down, but after a few hours of "fiddling" had the same tightness in the rails that I gave up... Gave up on stopping the binding of the rip fence too. Just can't figure out what is out of whack. I generally now use the BT3100 for rough cutting and go back later with planes and other power tools to clean things up and get everything square.

Huge pain actually! So if anybody has a tip on what might be wrong please let me know. I yes, I've followed the manuals procedure about 20 Million times.