Harbor Freight 800 Watt Generator - $80 - during the Oct 7 - 9 parking lot sale

[BobSch]

If you consider turning the breaker off and back-feeding the circuit, find a breaker lockout. They can be as simple a sheet metal stop that has a set-screw to fasten to the handle of the breaker, all the way to padlock arrangements. If nothing else, it will keep someone from accidentally throwing the breaker back on.

[gsmittle]

The risks of doing this are high and the damage potential high. Its never recommended to do it but its simplicity is very tempting because the alternative is an expensive to install transfer switch.

+1 on that! After an ice storm a couple of years ago, I bought a genset from the BORG, a transfer switch from Amazon, and had an electrician install the switch and socket. Well worth the expense and the half a day it took them.

Funny thing, the electricity hasn't gone out since… What are the odds?

g.

[RAV2]

Does anyone know how quite or how loud this generator is? I have seen some of the Honeywell & Honda inverter generators showing up at some camps to briefly recharge batteries or to run icecream freezers & they are very quiet.

Please NOTE - this is not a Honda generator (known for their quiet performance) - BUT for $80 IT CAN'T BE BEAT.

I have 2 of them now.

When I first got one, I played with it on my bench in my shed. It is extremely quiet. So quiet that I started to become overcome with CO2 while I was testing it because it was not so loud that it made me look for hearing protection.

Some tips:

• (I am kind of a generator nut - I have a Generac 7000EXL that powers my house when needed. It has a tri-fuel conversion and I ran it for 4+ days on Natural Gas last month during the huricane)
• The 800 watt gen has a carb bowl drain screw. Nice for totally draining system. I rotated the bowl so that it was easily accessed with a long screw driver from the side of the machine. I also added a fuel filter - the short style - to capture any chips in the tank left over from manufacturing. I had a situation with the first one that caused a blockage even though I thought I cleaned the tank well.
• HF will provide the Champion conversion for the chinese plug - I have bought 2 immediately on the way home and never used the stock chinese unit.
• The gas cap has a nice measured cup to ease the concern of mixing the oil in the gas. Fill the tank, add 2.5 oz of 2 cycle oil, shake, and run.
• I buy walmart 2 cycle oil in gallon bottles. One will last 51 fillups, 256 hours, if you have 51 gallons of gas (at 5 hrs per fill)

Hope you all enjoy it.

[jackellis]

People die every year because they don't understand or don't respect electricity. If your negligence causes a lineman to be injured or killed, I can assure you the local utility will make an example of you. There are good, safety-related reasons for not messing with meters or back feeding from a standby generator.

[RAV2]

2nd session of testing going on now .....

Cut my gas line, inserted a filter, added gas and we are off an running.

I've got a 500 watt flood light running as the load and I'll run till the tank is dry - probably close to 5 hours.

Then I'll box it back up (dry all around) and store if for action when the next natural disaster strikes.

Not a house sized unit but comfort when needed.

(Let's not start a discussion on the electrical risk issues of not doing things right. This happens all the time on my other generator related forums. We are identifying a great value and discussing its use when following the manufacturer's recommended practices)

[Cochese]

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-C.../dp/B003ATXIBG

This device will do what you want. Mount to the outside of your workshop building. Use a standard extension cord to connect the generator to this inlet.

Here's a cheaper version: no cover etc but only $12
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=8718

the problem with these I listed are that they are only 15A so not good for powering a whole workshop. Good for powering a single branch circuit with a small genset (under 1800W). They sell locking plugs for 50 amps for more for those having a distribution box with several breakers and branch circuits., designed to be used with heavier wire, of course, probably something like 8 Ga.

Thanks for that. I picked up a 4' strip to keep the chargers and small tools plugged into for now, but it's something that I might consider in the future.

I think that putting permanent power in might be cheaper than getting a generator that's quiet enough for me.

[Woodshark]

Mine so far is running fine. After it heats up, I do hear a little noise. It might be that I'm running 87 octane (not 89 as specified) or it could be a touch of piston slap. Not sure but it does not seem to bother the unit.

Right now I'm running one more tank of gas through mine at about 60% load. That will put about seven hours on it, all with the stock spark plug. When it runs dry I'll wait till it cools. Then I'm going to drain the carb, take out the stock plug, and spray the insides with a quick shot of WD40. (Yes, I know WD40 is not fogging oil but it's better than nothing.)

After that I'll put a new Autolite plug in it and store it away until I need it.

[RAV2]

Mine so far is running fine. After it heats up, I do hear a little noise. It might be that I'm running 87 octane (not 89 as specified) or it could be a touch of piston slap. Not sure but it does not seem to bother the unit.

Right now I'm running one more tank of gas through mine at about 60% load. That will put about seven hours on it, all with the stock spark plug. When it runs dry I'll wait till it cools. Then I'm going to drain the carb, take out the stock plug, and spray the insides with a quick shot of WD40. (Yes, I know WD40 is not fogging oil but it's better than nothing.)

After that I'll put a new Autolite plug in it and store it away until I need it.

I found the same thing with my 500 watt testing - sounded somewhat like a knock. Did not seem to bother my other unit as it ran for over 4 days.

I also bought 2 cans of this premixed fuel from Sears http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0582000P?mv=rr and put it in the box - perfect for an extreme emergency where power might be needed.

Included a quart of 2 cycle oil and a $4 power strip from HF as well (that I also tested): http://www.harborfreight.com/four-ou...rip-91334.html

Also fogged the unit with WD40, placed the bag over it, and boxed it up for the next emergency.

[jnesmith]

+1 on that! After an ice storm a couple of years ago, I bought a genset from the BORG, a transfer switch from Amazon, and had an electrician install the switch and socket. Well worth the expense and the half a day it took them.

Funny thing, the electricity hasn't gone out since… What are the odds?

g.

What is a genset? What is a transfer switch? Could you please provide a couple of links? I googled, but don't think I am finding what you described.

Thanks.

[woodturner]

well, the seals are designed to be tamper resistant. You can't remove the meter without removing the seal, you can't remove the seal w/o breaking it.

I agree that they are designed to be tamper resistant. However, most electricians know how to remove and reinstall them so that they appear to be tamper-free. Again, I am not recommending this, just saying it is a fairly common practice. Electricians are permitted to remove the meter to work on the circuits, and they are supposed to call it in, but they rarely do, in practice. The utilities know this, and generally just replace the seal when the meter is read next.

Clearly, to the power co. a broken seal is a big hint that someone has screwed with the meter, for whatever reason.

You would think, but they mostly don't care. If your power usage drops 80% and the meter seal is broken, then they really care. If your usage is within your normal range, in my experience they will just replace the seal.

Again, don't do this unless you are VERY comfortable and experienced working with electricity. Electricity bites, usually very hard.

[woodturner]

Popping a meter can be dangerous, yes most of the times they come right out without incident, but there are plenty of instances where stuff does happen.

Arc flashes require current to be flowing. A meter should NEVER be installed or removed when there are loads connected to the line. If no loads are connected, there is no current flow and therefore minimal danger.

AGAIN, unless a person is really comfortable and experienced working with meters and service panels, THEY SHOULD NOT DO THIS!

[cabinetman]

well, the seals are designed to be tamper resistant. You can't remove the meter without removing the seal, you can't remove the seal w/o breaking it.
Clearly, to the power co. a broken seal is a big hint that someone has screwed with the meter, for whatever reason. A major reason for this system is so that people don't bypass the meter or change the meter to steal electricity.

I agree. Suggesting to jury rig a seal is flagrant advice.

.

[All Thumbs]

I agree. Suggesting to jury rig a seal is flagrant advice.

.

It is a bad idea for a reason I hadn't originally considered: Pulling the meter exposes terminals which carry 220-volts, 60 to perhaps 200-amps. Once the power is restored to the neighborhood, the terminals are energized and right there for anyone to stick their fingers in ("hey, is this on?").

NOT SAFE.

I suppose you could get a cover to have in the event that the power goes out. But that is a lot of planning ahead. Better to just wire a temp. plug onto the furnace in the event that an ice storm (for example) takes out power for a few days, and leave the meter alone.

[LCHIEN]

What is a genset? What is a transfer switch? Could you please provide a couple of links? I googled, but don't think I am finding what you described.

Thanks.

A genset is short for generator set.
A transfer switch is just that a double throw switch that has as its common the house wiring, and the two inputs are either the gerneator or the power lines.
So they come in automatic and manual, the manual you have to switch yourself when the power goes out and then ou start your generator. The automatic senses when the power line goes away and automatically switches to the generator and starts the generator by remote start control. There are more refinements such as transfer switches that only enable part of the house in case you have a genset that cannot power the whole house load.

[woodturner]

I suppose you could get a cover to have in the event that the power goes out.

I was NOT suggesting pulling the meter to connect a generator, just commenting on the question of the seals and responding to a statement that the meter had been pulled.

When an electrician removes a meter, they either reinstall the meter in a different orientation (many meters are designed so they can be installed without contacting the power connections) or installs a cover, for just the reasons you suggest.