Fixing My Trailer - Pic and Question

[crokett]

So here is the axle to my trailer. You can see the cracked hub on the grass. Anyway, question is about that shoulder just at the end of the threads on the axle. The hub came off over that but the bearings won't and since I need to put a new set of bearings on, how do I get that off? Is it a morse taper? Do I need some sort of puller? I assume it comes off since a castleated nut goes on the threads and it is holding something on. Or does the whole axle come out? There is a piece of u-channel that runs across the trailer and there is tube steel welded to that. The axle looks to be inserted into that.

[dbhost]

Assuming that the trailer hub is set up like a conventional automobile (Front engine / rear drive) front spindle, which it looks to be, there is a slight taper to the spndle.

Having said that, the hub is the only part that the races for the bearings should be pressed into. My guess is the failing hub overheated and heated up the bearing, making it swell, slide in on the taper, then contract when it cooled. (This happens a LOT when front hub bearings fail). IF you are lucky, you can heat it up with a propane torch, and drive it off with a hammer, and some thing as a dead blow driver like a soft brass rod, or a piece of 2x4 so you don't run the risk of hammering the taper or the threads...

IF the race is welded to the axle shaft, you are as they put it in military terms, S.O.L. with that axle, and it is time to replace it...

I am not sure but that looks to be a fairly light duty sort of trailer judging from the leaf springs, so chances are the axle should be pretty easy and relatively inexpensive to come by...

Good luck with it. Heck if you were close by I'd even help you with this. I've done a few of these... Most of the time the bearing will come off no problem. Just sometimes they insist on being welded down, or worse, hiding a cracked axle...

[Hoover]

The analysis by DBHost is correct. The hub looks to be a victim of overheating. I would check with a boat dealer for a new axle. Or check farm supply stores. Good luck, in this case, for peace of mind replacing the axle is probably cheaper and safer in the long run.

[turkeywire]

DBHost is correct. The axle has two bearing seats the large inner one and a small outer one. A puller to pull the outer is where I would start. The application of a large amount of heat in a concentrated area is helpful, if you get the axle hot you have defeated the purpose. I have cut them off with a grinder or cutting torch, but that is not for the faint hearted. If the axle is damaged a replacement stub axle can be purchased at Northern or Tractor Supply. However the old stub will have to be cut out and the new one welded in. Hope this helps.

[tseavoy]

Another option is to buy a whole new trailer -- say, from Northern Tool. That's what I did when my old one went TU. It's not hard to get to the price of a new trailer what with parts, labor, (maybe welding, etc.)

Tom on Marrowstone


PENITENT, adj. Undergoing or awaiting punishment.

[crokett]

I picked up a replacement hub at Northern tool earlier today. They have the complete assembly with spindle for 20 bucks more but sounds like that is beyond me for repairs, plus I have no way to get the trailer to someone to fix it, unless I put it on another trailer. I will try heating the outer seat and/or being very careful with a grinder. Can I get a replacement seat if I have to cut it off?

I looked at the axle when I was working on it earlier and it appears to be ok. It is not scored, bent or cracked. I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to.

[chopnhack]

Might need to rent or borrow a slap hammer with a puller attachment to try and bang the bearing off in a straight fashion.

[dbhost]

Might need to rent or borrow a slap hammer with a puller attachment to try and bang the bearing off in a straight fashion.

A screw puller would be a FAR better option. That slap hammer will far more likely slip off and harm the operator.

As far as the bearing "seat" goes, what you have on the end of the axle is part of the roller bearing assembly, the rollers will face the race in the hub,

Simply put, your bearing blew up and took the hub with it.

The hard part on applying heat is of course keeping from heating the axle as well...

Do you have an Auto Zone near you? They have a loan a tool program where you can use things like pullers etc... And what you need is called a Bearing Puller...

[crokett]

Auto Zone is 5 minutes away. I was gonna stop by tomorrow and get the puller. As far as the heat goes, I have a MAPP torch for plumbing. The axle is pretty big and I figured that little torch would have a hard time heating both but I could be wrong.

[turkeywire]

When you get the puller put it on and make sure it is a straight, and square as possible. Start by putting a fair amount of tension on the bearing race, then hit the center screw of the puller with a heavy hammer, tighten the center screw and repeat. If that does not work then add heat. After looking at the pic again a couple ofother thoughts. You may want to put the nut back on the axle, put it on backwards, to keep from swellin the end of the axle. Also the puller may have a point on the center screw, if so you may want to put some washers under it to keep from damaging the end of the axle. Good Luck!

[Daryl]

When you are done with that repair, inspect, replace or re-pack the bearings on the other side.

[tseavoy]

Some years ago when my Ford Falcon was in its death throes after all of 60,000 miles, the rear bearings went. I watched the mechanic remove the old one and install the new bearing using this process:

1. Whack the outer race with a hammer to break it allowing the outer race balls and retainer to fall out.

2. Take a big cold chisel and whack the inner race thereby cracking it, then knocking it off with a hammer. Any marks on the spindle were emery clothed out.

3. Put on the new bearing using a piece of pipe just a little larger than the spindle as a driving tool and drive it on with a hammer. He may have used a soft blow hammer for the last step.

Tom

[Black wallnut]

I'd use a bearing separator
along with a bar puller or a harmonic balancer puller. Your local auto parts house might be able to rent both special tools but if ya can afford them you'll find other uses sometime down the road.

[LCHIEN]

Maybe this:


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=8832

$12.99 at your local HF exclusive of coupons

[drillman88]

At work we use a die grinder and wafer cutoff wheel to cut down until you are just off of fit then drive the bearing off with a chisel sometimes you need to cut in 2 places for the bearing to have enough give, but that is rare. You can use a drill motor if you dont have a die grinder.