A couple questions about stabalizing blanks

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  • leehljp
    Just me
    • Dec 2002
    • 8442
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #16
    Originally posted by BigguyZ
    I guess I'll be safe and get the Gorilla glue.
    Thanks!
    You probably know this but I am going to point this out for absolute clarity:

    There are TWO kinds of Gorilla Glue - don't confuse them:

    1. The one you and Seabat are referring to on this specific subject of stabilizing is the Gorilla WOOD Glue.

    2. Gorilla POLYURETHANE Glue is used by many for gluing the tubes into the drilled blank. Its expanding ability is the absolute best in securing tubes to blanks but causes grief with the unexperienced.

    In most places that I have seen the Gorilla Glue - it has been the Poly kind. Be sure to check.
    Last edited by leehljp; 08-22-2009, 09:08 AM.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

    Comment

    • BigguyZ
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2006
      • 1818
      • Minneapolis, MN
      • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

      #17
      Hank,

      I'm well aware of the differences between the plain 'ol Gorilla glue (poly), and Gorilla white glue. But I do appreciate the heads up.

      Seabat,
      So you've had issues with CA + BLO? That's what I had been trying for a the last sevaral CA finished pens I've been doing, and they can turn out fine at first, but develop cracks later on. Do you think that's because of the BLO?

      Thanks

      Comment

      • seabat
        Forum Newbie
        • Dec 2008
        • 72
        • Liberty Lake, WA

        #18
        Originally posted by BigguyZ
        Seabat,
        So you've had issues with CA + BLO?
        The issues I've had are the sheen or lack of it that plain CA gives. It appears to be more of a satin look to me.

        If I have some nice wood and want the grain to pop I either make a slurry paste using CA or Tru-Oil and sand back down to wood to fill the voids or I use sanding sealer on smooth wood.
        That's what I had been trying for a the last sevaral CA finished pens I've been doing, and they can turn out fine at first, but develop cracks later on. Do you think that's because of the BLO?
        I've never had one crack and I normally use 2-3 coats of med CA as a finish.

        Comment

        • leehljp
          Just me
          • Dec 2002
          • 8442
          • Tunica, MS
          • BT3000/3100

          #19
          Originally posted by seabat
          The issues I've had are the sheen or lack of it that plain CA gives. It appears to be more of a satin look to me.

          If I have some nice wood and want the grain to pop I either make a slurry paste using CA or Tru-Oil and sand back down to wood to fill the voids or I use sanding sealer on smooth wood.

          I've never had one crack and I normally use 2-3 coats of med CA as a finish.
          I don't use BLO on Holly as BLO causes it to have an aged ivory color. I don't use it on Bloodwood because it causes BW to change from maroonish to a slight brown/burnt orange tint. But for most woods, it does pop/enhance the grain - more in some cases than in others. There are times when straight CA will enhance the grain better than BLO.

          BLO in curing: I have found that BLO increases the curing rate of CA by a few seconds. In hot weather, I don't need that but in cooler weather and when it is cold in the winter (in my somewhat heated small shop) BLO seems to help increase the cure rate of the CA.

          Some people use BLO as a lubricant to the CA, but for me, I can apply CA just as successful with or without BLO.
          Hank Lee

          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

          Comment

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