Sharpening Station(pics)

[Richard in Smithville]

A word of thanks to all the members who gave me advice and guided me in the right direction on how to keep my chisels sharp. This is based on King Heiple's jig from one of the links provided. I have jigs for gouges and one to do skew's and have intentions to build a jig for fingernail grinds. I built this from some left over box store oak ply.

Enough talk...here's what I built.









The grinder and jig is now set up by the lathe.


One last question( for now). Should I be changing the wheels that came with the grinder or will the stock wheels do?

Thanks for looking.

[dbhost]

Two things.

#1. I REALLY want those plans! That looks like just what I am looking to convert a mess of scrap ply into.

#2. You CAN use the OE wheels, the white aluminum oxide run cooler, and stay square better...

It's nice to see another user of the Ryobi 6" BGH616 grinder. Other than the lack of variable speed, I really like mine.

[Richard in Smithville]

Thanks db. This is the link that I used.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00115.asp

Instead of the thumb screws and t-nuts, I used a regular nut and bolt. The nut was epoxied into the base and I made shop built knobs to turn the bolts.

[pelligrini]

That's really cool. How'd you fasten the jig to the workmate?

I use the same grinder and a 225 Workmate, but I just C clamp it down. I haven't got around to building a base & jig. I'm not too fond of the OE rests.

[Turaj]

Richard, the station looks great and thanks for the link (please ignore my PM on the other site).

[Richard in Smithville]

That's really cool. How'd you fasten the jig to the workmate?

The workmate was just there while I constructed the base. It's actually screwed into a wooden cart that I had built a while ago.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Richard, great station - just what I was looking for. A question - how would you recommend keeping the tool at a set angle for a particular bevel, say, 25 dg? Or is that only a problem for chisels and not turning tools?

[dbhost]

Thanks for the link...

No worries. I have a mess of T-nuts so that isn't a problem. I tend to epoxy in T nuts anyway. I have really bad luck with them...

[Richard in Smithville]

Richard, great station - just what I was looking for. A question - how would you recommend keeping the tool at a set angle for a particular bevel, say, 25 dg? Or is that only a problem for chisels and not turning tools?

The slide will , er, well, slide back and forth in the base. Match up the angle and lock it in place with the shop built knob.

I got a lot of help( plus links) from this thread

[bmyers]

Now that you are all setup, here is a trick for matching the grind of a chisel. Take some black magic marker and color the beveled edge of the chisel.

Eyeball the angle by varying the length of the slide fixture. Start and stop the grinder so it's spinning but not still at full speed. Touch the chisel to the wheel and remove it. Look at the marker on the bevel. If you matched the bevel perfectly, you'll see that it is erased from the front to the back of the chisels bevel. Otherwise the black will only be missing from one side or another of the bevel. Adjust accordingly.

Bill

[jgrobler]

Nice work Richard.

Take some black magic marker and color the beveled edge of the chisel.
Eyeball the angle by varying the length of the slide fixture. Start and stop the grinder so it's spinning but not still at full speed. Touch the chisel to the wheel and remove it. Look at the marker on the bevel. If you matched the bevel perfectly, you'll see that it is erased from the front to the back of the chisels bevel. Otherwise the black will only be missing from one side or another of the bevel. Adjust accordingly.

Yep, that's what I do too, except I just spin the disk by hand, it's enough to show whether you've got it spot on. I also marked the slide to be able to get almost spot-on first time when I have to put it back in.

[Richard in Smithville]

Great tips. Thanks.