Second bowl

[Anna]

Starting to get the hang of it. Just one minor catch this time. I'm still trying to figure out the foot thing (design concepts, etc), and I've really fallen in love with the big Benjamin Best scraper I just bought.

The bowl is about 7" in diameter. Finished with mineral oil (I have to learn what other finishes are available). The wood is bay laurel. I think.

[DonHo]

It looks good. Your next one will be even better. I love the scraper too, if you do green wood it'll really make the shavings and sap fly
You might try bee's wax with the mineral oil. That's one of Richard Rafan's favorite finishes. Just rub the wax on the bowl after the oil (with the lathe running) and then use a rag to "melt" it in.
DonHo

[LCHIEN]

looks nice! Keep up the work.

[TB Roye]

Anna

Looks great, nice job. That bowl look like you have been doing for a while not you second bown. I am still playing with pens and stoppers. Thought about going to bowls, but right now don't want to spend the money on new tools. Don't need another addiction.

Tom

[mschrank]

Finished with mineral oil (I have to learn what other finishes are available).

Nice work Anna. If you want a finish that doesn't need as much ongoing maintenance, you might try Salad Bowl Finish. I've used the one made by General Finishes on some cutting boards, and was really happy with the results. I think Behlens makes a version of it as well. It's simply varnish that is supposedly food safe (although I think most varnishes are safe once they're cured).

[RayintheUK]

Another great shape, Anna - well done!

The inset foot (recessed tenon) is an effective way to go and the vast majority of my bowls have been formed that way. I tend to turn the foot itself - if I have one - slightly sloping down towards the center. This gives a finer outer line for the bowl to sit on and can counteract rocking if the foot is not absolutely flat.

Sometimes, I'll turn a bowl with no foot that just sits on its base. Again, I turn the base with a slight slope towards the center for the reason given above.

HTH

Ray.

[Anna]

Why, thanks, guys. I know it's not going to win any beauty contests, but it's my baby and I was just happy I finished it. I think I've finally figured out the whole "rubbing the bevel" concept, and I've even started using the skew again to clean out the outer surfaces.

Don, I got the beeswax, but I didn't know I'm supposed to apply it with the lathe turning. Will do that with the next one (if I don't forget before I take it off the lathe). Do I apply it right after the mineral oil, or do I wait for the oil to soak in first (which is supposed to take a couple of hours)?

Tom, I have a DVD I might be able to copy for you (I already have permission to do so). PM me your snail mail address if you're interested. To start bowl turning, I think you really only need a bowl gouge and probably a parting tool or a skew (for the foot). The face plate either comes with your lathe, or you can get one cheap from PSI (I bought the 2" face plate because the one that came with my lathe is about 6" which is too wide). Woodcraft is currently selling a chuck for about $70, which is the same one I've had for the last year. Although if you can swing it, get a C-series chuck from PSI instead (~$120), so you can add a Cole jaw later (which apparently is not really that necessary either).

Mike, thanks for that link. If HD has it, I'll try it. Can I still use beeswax over it? Or is that unnecessary/redundant?

Ray, I thought about turning it without a foot, but it really looked funny. I think I have to work on my sense of proportion for the bowl. I did turn the foot sloping towards the center, though (learned that when making a mallet), so I got that part right.

[Uncle Cracker]

That's good stuff, Anna. You're obviously having a good time, and that really what it's all about (although sometimes I still think it's all about the hokey pokey).

[DonHo]

"Don, I got the beeswax, but I didn't know I'm supposed to apply it with the lathe turning. Will do that with the next one (if I don't forget before I take it off the lathe). Do I apply it right after the mineral oil, or do I wait for the oil to soak in first (which is supposed to take a couple of hours)?"

Rafan wipes his bowls with oil and then rubs on the wax right after. He then rubs the bowl (with the lathe running) with a rag which causes enough friction to melt the wax. I'm sure you know but don't wrap the rag around your fingers or hand, make sure you can "turn loose" if the rag gets caught in the work.


DonHo

[ragswl4]

Very nice work. Makes me want to get back to my lathe. Keep it up and keep posting your projects. Inspires us.

[mschrank]

Why, thanks, guys.
Mike, thanks for that link. If HD has it, I'll try it. Can I still use beeswax over it? Or is that unnecessary/redundant?

I doubt HD will have it. Some woodworking stores carry it, and you can order it from Rockler and other online sources. I've also seen General Finishes products at stores that sell RTA (ready to assemble) furniture, but they usually just have a small selection of the stains and regular varnish. On a bit of a side note, I've pretty much made General Finishes my sole brand to use for hand applied finishing...I haven't found one of their products I don't like.

As far as the beeswax, I don't suppose there is any problem using it over the varnish...but I'm not sure what it would buy you. Might make it "feel" better to the touch.

[gerti]

Nice work and a beautiful piece of wood! Does the mineral oil stay tacky for a while?

[garymuto]

Paper towel is safer than a rag

It looks good. Your next one will be even better. I love the scraper too, if you do green wood it'll really make the shavings and sap fly
You might try bee's wax with the mineral oil. That's one of Richard Rafan's favorite finishes. Just rub the wax on the bowl after the oil (with the lathe running) and then use a rag to "melt" it in.
DonHo

I'm just a novice, but I've talked to a few people and was warned to not use a rag on a lathe since a thread can catch and pinch a finger as well as pull it into the lathe. Paper towel will tear if it catches and poses no harm.

I've also used mineral oil with ~20% wax melted into a mixture as a finish for cutting boards. It works well, but isn't the most durable. I haven't used it on a lathe though.

[Anna]

Nice work and a beautiful piece of wood! Does the mineral oil stay tacky for a while?

I didn't think so. The wood just keeps absorbing it, and when it's saturated, the oil just pools on the surface and I wipe it off. I do want to try that other finish Mike (mschrank) suggested. Will probably pick that up at Woodcraft.

[cgallery]

I really love the grain of that wood. But even more, I love the proportions of that bowl. Nice work.