HF Bandsaw trouble

[Snap Marc]

My area was just nailed by a bunch of tornados. I went around my neighborhood browsing the incredible selection of wood that is just sitting by everyone's driveways. I picked up a few choice pieces in hopes to turn some bowls, etc. as gifts for my neighbors.

So I took a log of cherry that was cut with a chainsaw. It measures about 10" in diameter and about 24" in length. I just want to cut a section that's about 8" thick so I can take it to my Delta lathe and start turning wet wood for the first time.

I set up my bandsaw and took the heavy log to it in hopes of simply cross cutting an 8" thick section. Well, this is where the problems start. The blade is just stopping if I apply any pressure at all. Am I using the wrong tool? Shouldn't I be able to cut this on on my Harbor Freight bandsaw? I have a riser block on it with a .5" resaw blade by Timberwolf. I also have the .5" blade that came with the bandsaw. I also have a .25" Timberwolf blade. They all seem have the same problem. Should I be using a chain saw? Handsaw? My lathe is sitting and waiting for this log blank, but I can cut the **** thing.

Does anyone have an answer for me? I can't wait to see the shavings fly with this green wood! Unfortunately I('m having to wait because I can't cut this piece.

Thanks in advance!

[Ken Massingale]

Marc, it's probably the sappy wet wood. First, what's stopping? I know the blade is, but is the blade slipping on the wheels or is the drive belt slipping? Wet wood is more fifficult for a given thickness. I've cut boards from 5 inch wet stuff on my HF, no riser, but it was slow going.
Anyway, for turning it's best to get the log sawn in half length ways (chainsaw carefully) then lay a half flat down on the BS and cut a circle. Then take the circle to the lathe, and enjoy. Those wet shavings will fly over your shoulder in ribbons.
HTH,
ken

Oh, you getting tornados down there today?

[sacherjj]

When I was cutting up the green Cherry, with the 10" Craftsman bandsaw, I could stop a blade on a dime, IF I rolled the wood so that the blad is pinched in the kerf. You don't have a flat surface to cut on, being chainsawed wood. This makes it very difficult to keep the cut lined up with the blade. When the piece of wood twists a little, the breaks go on.

I found it quicker to do a little chainsaw carving for the big pieces (20" x 8"). Anything 6" or so wide, I've been carefully running across the jointer, just until I get a flat reference surface. Then sawing from there. It is like night and day, how fast my blade is slicing through the wood.

[John Hunter]

After using my HF bandsaw for awhile I had to tighten up the drive belt. I was resawing and bogging the saw down. Once I tightened the drive belt I had no problems.

[guycox]

TPI Counts Too

The number of teeth per inch probably matters as much if not more than the width of the blade. You'll never be able to cut a green log with a fine toothed blade. A skip tooth blade would be even better for the saw dust ejection.

There a couple of plans around for holding log for "ripping" on the bandsaw. Come to think of it, I should build one and post the pix.

[LCHIEN]

It's probably a combination of all the things mentioned so far.
1. first chcek the blade and pulley and make sure its not slipping. esp. if the motor is still running.
2. The blade should have few teeth to be able to carry off all the cuttings, a skip tooth blade is probably best, not more than 3 tpi.
3. Make sure the log is not rolling, twisting and or otherwise binding. Probably need to attach to a sled so that the log can't roll or twist.