HF DC Switch replacement

[woodturner]

I was at HD yesterday for something else and already picked up a 20A light switch (that's what my inline switch on the extension cord is, too) but from what you guys said, seems like I need to upgrade that.

Switches that are suitable for motor use have an HP rating on the switch, but otherwise resemble a light switch. If you look at the switch body or the box, it will list the motor rating. I agree with LCHIEN, though, I don't think I have seen a 120 VAC switch rated for 2 HP, typically 20A switches are rated for 1 HP IIRC.

[LCHIEN]

I have the HF Dust Collector and had read about the potential bad switch. My solution (good or bad, I don't know) was to leave the unit in the "on" position and then wire an outlet with a wall switch to control on/off. In my mind, that would take the switch out of play. I'm the only one in the shop, so I only have to watch out for myself. Not sure if that is really any better though

[QUOTE=atgcpaul]I was at HD yesterday for something else and already picked up a 20A light switch (that's what my inline switch on the extension cord is, too) but from what you guys said, seems like I need to upgrade that.[QUOTE]

Wall switch is probably much worse than the switch in the DC. The designer of the DC should have at least picked an adequate switch for the job, 15A rated for motor starts. Its possible they have a very marginal switch for this.

But, almost certainly you have a inadequate switch if you are using a wall switch intended for lighting which are resistive loads. Lighting is considered resistive and does not arc nearly as badly as does an inductive motor when turning off. THe wall sitch might last a while but I would keep an eye on it. Make sure it isn't hot because what will happen is that the conacts will pit a little bit every time when the disconnect current is broken. Eventually the contact resistance will increase to where the switch when conducting 15A gets hot enough to melt or catch fire. Recall the power dissipated is I^2 x R. If the resistance builds up to only 1/10th of an ohm, the power in the contacts will be 15^2 x .1 which is 22 W. And that's a lot of heat inside a small switch.

[atgcpaul]

Thanks Loring! I got everything wired up according to your diagram, plugged it into an outlet that I switched from my subpanel--just in case--flipped the breaker on, then pressed the button on the remote. DC fired up right away. I only had 15A outlets available but I'll try to pick up a 20A one. And, of course, I need to build a box for it.

Paul



I had the extension and zip cords and bought these parts:

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-32555-Ou...+Converter+Kit
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C240B-...0+Coil+Voltage