Miter Saw - Best for Segmenting?

[leehljp]

Recently there was a question about Miter Saws on another thread, and there have been recommendations over the years here for different ones. In the last thread and post, the consistency of precision of the non-sliders was mentioned.

My Question is this, What are the most accurate compound miter saws, such as those used for segmenting?

I have been interested in segmented bowls for a while, but I also know that repeatable and dependable settings are necessary. I won't be getting one any time soon, but it sure will be nice to think ahead.

Your opinion on consistently accurate miter saws for segmenting?

[atgcpaul]

I know you asked about miter saws (and I have never turned or made miters for segmented turnings) but as I watch videos on how to get started turning, it seems all the turners use a sled jig for the TS with hold down clamps. It seems like the safer way to go.

[lrr]

My compound miter saw is mostly used for cutting lumber outside for outdoor projects. I do use it when I need a miter for something like a picture frame.

It is way too dangerous to try to cut small pieces. I don't even use my radial arm saw on really short pieces of wood, although the table and fence support is better than on my CMS. (My RAS table is a custom one I built just for cross cutting. Narrow kerf cut in fence and on table at 90 degrees. The arm is never moved for angled cuts.)

Small pieces for me are rough cut pen blanks for lathe turning, and a bandsaw is my "goto" saw for those, but precision is not critical. I've not done segmented bowls, but aspire to some day. I just recently bought a miter bar to make a sled for cutting small parts on my table saw.

[leehljp]

For pen turning segments, I did make my own saw and a sled. Works great for tiny parts. It had hold downs and micro-adjustments (1/1000). I haven't assembled it or used it since returning from Japan. I will say that in what I made, precision WAS critical. In bowls, precision is critical to me as I am not happy with visible and odd sized glue lines around the bowl. I am talking 1/100 in one segment and maybe 1/72 in another and 1/200 in another on a 12 inch bowl. These visible differences stand out to me. I may be off a tad in my numbers above, but to my visual acuity, it is destracting. I certainly am not in the same league as Sam Maloof, but as one person asked him once: "Do you have cross hairs in your eyeballs?" I don't have the eye-hand coordination he had but I do have enough "eye" acuity that it is distracting.

I have made a few picture frames in the past and what was acceptable to LOML and others were not to me. It came down to the difference in an angle that showed a miniscule larger glue line at one end of the line than th other.

This is what I will be shooting for in making large segments and picture frames.

I was looking for larger segments than pens though, including frames of different angles. I probably should not have left it strictly as "segments" as that does give the wrong impression. I have almost a ton of old fence and barn boards and LOML and daughters wants some frames of different shapes; I personally want to make some 10 to 12 inch diameter segments for bowls which could be made better by an accurate miter saw with good hold downs and stops. IN addition, in 2000, I picked up several bundles of frames that a frame shop left behind when they went out of business in the Memphis area.

I don't see a problem with a miter saw and segments. Select the angle, Cut one end, add a precise "stop". Cut one end, flip the board front to back, cut, flip, cut, flip, cut.

Maybe I am going down the wrong road, but that was my idea. This same setup for both segments and frames. With bad eye hand coordination, I do need my precision to be in the machines. I probably should just save up a couple of years and get a Festool.

[leehljp]

As to pen turning precision segments, see below. I think larger turnings, segments and frames would magnify imprecise cuts even more that what I mention below.

On the top pen (2007), I made the blank on my home made table saw (6 1/2 inch saw turned upside down in a home made table) and sled and it came out PERFECT. After trying to duplicate it, I went through (made) 6 home made blanks after that and still did not get a perfect blank. I gave up after that. I did not make the other blanks into pens because one end would be off by enough that I could see it even though others might not.



On this pen (2008-'09?), I was able to "mass produce" after the first two by making many segments at a time. Glass Smooth cuts were necessary to prevent glue line visibility between the wood segments and brass ring separators.

Believe me, if a single segment is off by 1/100 inch in whole or part, it is obvious. I have been to numerous shows and shops that featured some fine craftsmen. Some turners make perfect joints, some don't. Those that command the high dollars don't. I am not interested in selling, just something without the distractions of odd sized glue lines. I must admit that the time to assemble a single pen even in mass producing is about 8 hours.

[Carpenter96]

I have done segments on both the table saw and sliding compound miter saw. I have not had any problems with the miter saw but I do have a zero clearance setup with a very good sharp blade. A professional that I learned from showed me that it is more about consistent cuts than absolute accuracy. When you see his results you would say he is correct. That said I happen to be very picky when I am selling work to someone and have had to learn to let it go because if I am the only one that can see the error (and the customer is extremely happy) then it will still drive me crazy for the rest of life but as long as it does not drive any one else crazy it's ok. Jigs are really what repeatability is all about. Nice work by the way.

Regards Bob

[leehljp]

. . .That said I happen to be very picky when I am selling work to someone and have had to learn to let it go because if I am the only one that can see the error (and the customer is extremely happy) then it will still drive me crazy for the rest of life but as long as it does not drive any one else crazy it's ok. Jigs are really what repeatability is all about. Nice work by the way.

Regards Bob

Thanks Bob. Maybe I am too critical of myself!