I'm working on a project for a client and I need to address a long-standing problem in my shop: 'curved' rips. The problem isn't quite as prevalent with sheet goods as it is hardwoods, but in some respects it is still there. Could be my technique, could be the tools.
When ripping, then checking for flatness along the cut, the thickness of what I'm aiming for isn't consistent. In hardwoods there are a bunch of kerf marks along the keeper piece. The front of the piece is held tightly against the fence, but the back comes off a noticeable amount. I use two push sticks: one a rip stick at the fence, feeding the piece through. The other a push stick right before the blade, pushing the piece against the fence.
I don't feel like wasting a ton of this cedar through the jointer, so I need to step things up. Since it seems a lot of the problem may be the back end of the cut moving away from the fence, I considered Board Mates from Peachtree. $40, but I am unsure of how compatible they are with our fence. I have tested fence alignment with known good boards, so if misalignment is an issue it should be a minor one. If my Irwin 24T blade isn't good enough I might invest in a Freud 30T Glue Line.
The other option I have is the TS55. I have a 75" rail which wouldn't be quite enough to do the 6' board lengths I need, but I could re-position the rail to do the last couple of inches. I would just need a rip blade, so I'm making a purchase either way.
Using the Festool means I have to set each cut up each time or make a jig, but it would probably be the better investment. I've been kicking around the idea of selling my table saw, but dado cuts and convenience have held me back.
When ripping, then checking for flatness along the cut, the thickness of what I'm aiming for isn't consistent. In hardwoods there are a bunch of kerf marks along the keeper piece. The front of the piece is held tightly against the fence, but the back comes off a noticeable amount. I use two push sticks: one a rip stick at the fence, feeding the piece through. The other a push stick right before the blade, pushing the piece against the fence.
I don't feel like wasting a ton of this cedar through the jointer, so I need to step things up. Since it seems a lot of the problem may be the back end of the cut moving away from the fence, I considered Board Mates from Peachtree. $40, but I am unsure of how compatible they are with our fence. I have tested fence alignment with known good boards, so if misalignment is an issue it should be a minor one. If my Irwin 24T blade isn't good enough I might invest in a Freud 30T Glue Line.
The other option I have is the TS55. I have a 75" rail which wouldn't be quite enough to do the 6' board lengths I need, but I could re-position the rail to do the last couple of inches. I would just need a rip blade, so I'm making a purchase either way.
Using the Festool means I have to set each cut up each time or make a jig, but it would probably be the better investment. I've been kicking around the idea of selling my table saw, but dado cuts and convenience have held me back.
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