Tracksaw Owners- What size track to go with?

[JimD]

Are you sure you can't store a 108 inch rail? The issue I've seen mentioned by people who have shorter rails and need to make a long cut is with alignment. There has to be some clearance between the rail and the connector and that clearance creates an opportunity for the rail to not be straight when connected. That situation doesn't exist for a single rail. As long as there was not manufacturing issue or shipping damage, it is straight.

My long rail is 103 inches so it's also longer than 8 feet. The room it is in has a more than 8 foot ceiling,however, so it isn't an issue. Hanging up is good, it keeps the rail straight and takes up a minimum of space. If I didn't have that situation, I would hang it from the ceiling in the garage or something. No way I would cut it.

You got a shorter one too, didn't you? I think 55 inches + 108 inches is about ideal (103 works fine but doesn't give you as much lead in and lead out when cutting 96 inches).

[capncarl]

I'm with JimD, I would not cut it. I'd find somewhere to store it, slide it under the couch or something. I have two 50 somethings that connect in the center, that is the weak point and allow the center to wander. I've drilled a 1/4" inch hole in the guide near the center splice and will run a drywall screw into the plywood on a 8 foot rip to make it stay put.
capncarl

[BigguyZ]

Ugh, I just don't see me needing that long of a rail... I'll hold off on anything drastic for now, but if I'm going to use this in my shop at all, I would like it to be as easy to use as possible. With the 2700 rail, it's pretty much a pain to have to maneuver it anywhere. Maybe once the shop's all organized that'll be less of an issue, but right now the 2700 is kinda too long...

[BigguyZ]

Ugh, I keep thinking about it, and now I'm leaning towards just buying a second rail.... I'd hate to mess up such a pretty thing.

Still not fully decided, but if I did, now do I go with a 32" or a 55"? This would be more for cross cuts (I got a set of Parf Dogs too)

This would take up my budget to get the ETS 125 I wanted, but maybe it's worth it.

[JimD]

Without a second rail, I understand your dilema better. The long rail is only really needed with cutting a 4x8 sheet lengthwise. Or cutting a door to width (standard door size is 80 inches so the 75 inch track would be too short for that too). I use it less than the 55 but I wouldn't want to have the saw without the 103 inch rail.

My 55 is occasionally longer than necessary to the point of being a slight pain but it also lets me cross cut the normal 4x8 sheet easily. I would get a 55 as your second rail. For a 2 foot cut it is overkill but isn't that hard to use (I've done it, several times and for cuts shorter than 2 feet too). Conversely, I wouldn't want to use the 108 for a 3 foot cut.

I made a lattice of 1x4s on edge a long time ago to use for cutting up sheet goods. It's pretty light and stored against the side of the shop (soon the storage unit since we're getting that house ready for sale). You don't need 4x8, 3 by 6 is probably big enough. When I bring home sheet goods in my little trailer, I like to throw the lattice over the top and cut the sheets right there. The mess is then in the driveway. Any I don't need space in the shop to manuver a 4x8 sheet - never simple for me. And I carry the sheet only the minimum amount necessary. The other thing I've done previously is to put the goods to be cut on saw horses in the driveway. I like my DeWalt's depth adjustment, I sometimes just set it 1/16 over the thickness of the sheet goods and I can still use the bottom sheet for something where one face isn't visible. In other words, I cut each sheet on top of one bottom sheet and just let it get nicked up. I did this because I was at the new house and didn't have the lattice to use. I've seen pictures of people using foam insulation on the ground or floor as the cutting surface but I like to stay off my knees whenever possible. With the goods to be cut supported properly, I've found it realitively easy to use rails longer than my workpiece.

Jim

[BigguyZ]

Without a second rail, I understand your dilema better.

Thanks, I may not have been clear on why I didn't want to go with just a 106" rail.

I'm leaning toward the 32" rail. I'm trying to think of what I'll be using the TS 55 on, and I'm thinking more for sheet goods for built-ins. So if I'm building a bookshelf or 24" cabinet, the 32" rail will work just fine. IF I do need to do something larger, like a door or cross cutting a sheet of ply, I can jump up to the 106". I can't think of much that'd be in-between in the near future....

[lrr]

Once I have some other Festools acquired, I'll likely get the 32" rail. It just seems like a handy length for much of my crosscutting. The 55" is not a real problem, but my bench is 36" wide and a 32" would be easier to maneuver around.