Any scroll sawyers out there who have any recommendations on cutting a straight line with the grain? I'm trying to cut a straight line and the blade tends to get caught in the grain and "pulling " away from my line. I've tried using a wider blade but to no avail. Thanks.
Scroll Saw Help?
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I've only played with my older Ryobi SC180VS, but from that limited use, I'd have to agree with JoeyGee's analysis.
While pine is softer and not as troublesome perhaps, a harder wood grain would tend to be more resistant, especially to a duller blade. But even with pine, the variations in the stiffness/hardness of the grain will make a loose and/or dull blade want to follow into softer grain, sort of bouncing away from a harder grain.
I'm not familiar with all of the different blade types and their tooth patterns to know if there are blades more suitable for such variations in grain. I do know, from my limited "play" that blades dull rather quick and need to be changed often. And because the blade is so thin, proper tension is extremely important.
Sorry this isn't more helpful,
CWSThink it Through Before You Do!Comment
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Both of the above are right on. When trying to cut a straight line, the wider the blade the better. Also, the blade should be under enough tension to sound a fairly high note when plucked with your finger. If it isn't tight enough, it will indeed wander all over the place. The other thing to remember is that due to the way scroll saw blades are manufactured, they want to drift to one side (generally right, I believe). In order to cut a straight line, the line must be presented to the blade at a noticable angle. One thing that may help is to watch the line ahead of where you are cutting rather than on where the blade currently is hitting the wood. "Looking ahead" will help you keep a straighter line.Jim
64sedan_at_gmail.comComment
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Thanks to all who have replied.
I am using a wide blade with 15 tpi on a Ryobi VS saw. The wood I'm cutting is spruce (practicing for later cut on my black walnut project).
With the exception of using a wider blade - I was already using the widest blade I have - I have incorporated all suggestions in all the posts. Something has helped because I am getting better results.
I never realized that a scroll saw would be difficult. I've had this saw about ten years and this is the first time that I have actually used it on a project; thus, my lack of knowledge and expertise. Now that I am actually using it, I find that it is getting to be fun - and that's what it's all about.
Again, thanks to all who replied.RichardComment
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You should match your blade to your project. Scroll saws can be finicky, but the right blade makes a BIG difference. Fortunately, quality scroll saw blades aren't nearly as expensive as a good TS blade.
Check with Mike to get some good Flying Dutchman blades:
http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm
Tell him what you are doing and he will set you up with the exact blade you need. Scroll saws are a lot of fun with the right combination of blades and materials.JoeComment
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Thanks, Joe. I think I will send him an email and try these blades. My only concern is that all his blades are pinless and I am having so much eye trouble that it's hard for me to thread them. Therefore, I've been using pinned blades. However, I will be having eye surgery soon and, perhaps, that problem will disappear. Again, thanks.You should match your blade to your project. Scroll saws can be finicky, but the right blade makes a BIG difference. Fortunately, quality scroll saw blades aren't nearly as expensive as a good TS blade.
Check with Mike to get some good Flying Dutchman blades:
http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm
Tell him what you are doing and he will set you up with the exact blade you need. Scroll saws are a lot of fun with the right combination of blades and materials.
RichardRichardComment
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