Circular Saw Blade for "finish quality" cut?

[BadeMillsap]

I have a Milwaukee 6390 circular saw that I typically use for "carpentry" ... in a current project I need to make some fairly long (48") finish cuts in some 1 3/8" cypress ... can't use a table saw because the work piece is 84" x 48" and I need to make very straight/clean cuts across the end grain along the 48" dimension.

My thought is to set a very straight fence and use the circular saw with a really clean cutting blade ... the question is ... how many teeth? what brand? how good a cut SHOULD I expect to get?

Suggestions?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

[LCHIEN]

A new blade of course will cut cleaner than an old blade. Buy a blade that advertises fine finish crosscut and has probably 50-60 teeth in a 7.25" blade. Stick to the name brands...

probably Knotscott has some specific recommendations.

[BigguyZ]

I'm pretty sure Forrest makes a circular saw blade. They make one of the finest table saw blades available, so I'm betting their circ saw blade is pretty good too.

Edit:
http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW07Q3...t+circular+saw

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-DH07Q6...t+circular+saw

If you're making a rip cut, I would think 30 teeth would be fine. After all, you're talking about a 7 inch blade, so its not like having 30 teeth on a 10" blade...

Edit 2: use some masonite to make a zero clearance base plate for your circ saw too. That'll help with tearout.

[chopnhack]

I would approach the problem with a Freud thin kerf 7 1/4" blade with either 40 or 60 teeth. Do you have any material to do a test cut with? The blades aren't terribly expensive ~$17-20 on Amazon.

[mpc]

A few things that might help besides the blade itself:
1: a sawboard works wonders - easier to set up compared to a regular guide fence and it help reduce tearout since it "holds down" the material like a zero clearance plate.

2: run a strip of blue painters tape along the planned cut; it too helps support the wood fibers like a zero clearance plate.

3: Running a sharp knife on the "keep" side of the cut to pre-cut the face reduces tear-out. This needs to be perfectly lined up with the blade though to help/work.

I get very good cuts with a basic circ saw, Freud blade, and a sawboard. If I need the cut to be tearout free on both pieces then I add blue tape.

Another option if you have enough raw material to start with: use the circ saw to cut about an inch oversize... then run the now more-manageable sized piece through the table saw for the final sizing cut.

mpc

[Knottscott]

I wouldn't use more than 40T for 1-3/8" thick wood, or burning could be a problem, which rules the Freud LU79R007 Hi-ATB, but any of the better 40T ATB blades should do well....Diablo D0740X, Marples, CMT, Forrest, DW Precision Trim, Ridge Carbide, etc.

[cabinetman]

I wouldn't use more than 40T for 1-3/8" thick wood, or burning could be a problem, which rules the Freud LU79R007 Hi-ATB, but any of the better 40T ATB blades should do well....Diablo D0740X, Marples, CMT, Forrest, DW Precision Trim, Ridge Carbide, etc.

+1. A 40T carbide tipped blade. Cut your stock with the good side down.

.

[JimD]

This would be an ideal cut for a track saw. I keep a 40 tooth blade on my Milwaukee a good bit of the time. It cuts pretty well but not like my DeWalt track saw. The track saw is noticably smoother. I don't know if the bearings are better or the soft start helps but the blade seems to wobble less producing a cut that a few swipes of sandpaper will clean up. The Milwaukee isn't bad but isn't this good either.

If you cut with your Milwaukee, I would get the motor up to full speed before engaging the wood and then push it past the work before allowing it to slow down. I think part of the wobble marks are where the saw speeds up and slows down.

Jim

[JR]

1: a sawboard works wonders - easier to set up compared to a regular guide fence and it help reduce tearout since it "holds down" the material like a zero clearance plate.

+1. Easy to make, easy to use, very effective.

[Mr__Bill]

First make sure that there is no run-out on the saw. The Milwaukee is a great saw with lots of power but I seem to remember, (it's been a few years) that it had a lot of run-out. If yours does then the cut will never be a finish cut, it will have some wave to it and rough spots.

Hope I'm wrong

Bill
over here where there is no snow.....

[wardprobst]

Get a good blade (40 tooth crosscut, I like Freud), tune up your saw and make a good saw-board. Make a practice cut or two and your off to the races.
DP

[BadeMillsap]

Thank you all for the suggestions ...

I bought a 60 tooth Diablo from HD after a bit of research it seemed to fill the bill.

I have to admit I had no clue what a "Saw Board" was but it was clearly called for with so many of you suggesting it so I Googled it and proceeded to build one.

After a few practice cuts I turned up the music and made the cuts and was generally happy with the result ... the cut was very clean and smooth with no apparent saw marks at all.

All's well as ends well ...