sharpening shop pencils

[LCHIEN]

How do you guys sharpen shop pencils?

for fine work I mostly use .5mm mechanical pencils or marking knives or scratch awls.

For "coarser" projects I use shop pencils. - the oblong kind that won't roll off the bench.

I tired using those cheapie sharpeners that give you sort of a conical point, but it gave me this sort of concave cone and a blunt tip. I find I do better just sharpening them on the belt or disc sander, whatever's setup. Four bevels - you get a thin line holding the pencil one way and a broad line the other (pencil rotated 90 degrees), useful depending on what you are trying to mark.

Knife is the other option but the sander is fast.

[sweensdv]

Pocket knife, the last thing I want to do when sharpening a pencil is turn it into a lesson on rocket science.

[LCHIEN]

Pocket knife, the last thing I want to do when sharpening a pencil is turn it into a lesson on rocket science.

Hold the pencil on the sander table with the sanding surface moving downwards into the table, its well supported and nothings flying anywhere.

Attached as thumbnails - how to point them. comparison of sharpness to a .5mm pencil. Because its long in one dimension and narrow int he other, it doesn't go dull as fast.



THis is the kind of point the Hanson sharpener they sell at the box hardware stores puts on the carpenters pencils, the lead is not pointed at all.

[cwsmith]

I'm sure it's just ME, but I have never liked "carpenter's pencils" (that's what my Dad used to call them). He always used them and his tool belt and box always had a few, along with a good pocket knife for sharpening. Of course back in those days, I don't think anybody ever sold those, as you could get them free at the local hardware and lumber stores. (No "big-box" stores back then, at least in our town.)

While I understand all the reasons why carpenter pencils are great, I somehow though, never got it. Seems to be a pain to sharpen, and I seem to hack away a lot more of it than I actually get to use. So, no carpenter pencil sharpening skills here

My favorite marking pencil is my two old drafting pencils... what we used to call "lead holders" They take a simple stick of 5-inch long lead that is slightly larger than a 1/16th in diameter. The holder has an adjustable clutch to advance the tip and can be quickly sharpened on almost almost anything. I do have a mechnical "pointer" but a piece of sandpaper or even a piece of concrete or stone will do a good job of making a point that you like (wedge, or fine and blunt "points".) Best of all, the lead comes in a variety of "softnesses" or even colors.

CWS

[cabinetman]

Much more involved than rocket science...no rockets. To answer the question, it depends on which pencil type that needs sharpening.

I don't use the flat type carpenters pencils at all. The ones I do have are the ones sent free by the Handyman's Club, and they just lay idle near where the pencils I do use are located.

I also use a common type pencil, hex shaped wood with a graphite/clay mix for the "lead" part, and a "rubber" type eraser at the top held in by a metallic ferrule. For those in the shop I use an electric sharpener. For on the jobsite, I use a manual one that has a small reservoir. Pencil goes in one end, you turn the pencil (or the sharpener) a few times and out it comes with a fresh point.

.

[Cochese]

Pocket knife, the last thing I want to do when sharpening a pencil is turn it into a lesson on rocket science.

Absolutely. KISS

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[chopnhack]

For rough framing the "carpenter's" pencil is handy and readily visible in different lighting conditions which is why it's great to use.

I have always kept a drywall knife in my belt and would use that to sharpen it. It's relatively easily shaped with a razor blade, I usually make a conical point. I guess I could sharpen it to a flat chisel tip rather quickly as well - will have to give a try and see next time I am doing rough framing.

I also always keep a mechanical pencil in the tool belt for when you need to split hairs or give the old guys a hard time since they can't see your marks ;-)

[leehljp]

The one that I got from LeeValley some years ago did a good job of sharpening for me. Found one at Home Depot: here They did (at least for me) an excellent job on carpenters pencils. Not sure if these will sharpen to the point as you mentioned though.

[cabinetman]

The one that I got from LeeValley some years ago did a good job of sharpening for me. Found one at Home Depot: here They did (at least for me) an excellent job on carpenters pencils. Not sure if these will sharpen to the point as you mentioned though.

I don't use the flat carpenters pencils, but I am curious how that sharpener works. Can you elaborate?

.

[durango dude]

For my shop pencil, I use Rockler's cabinet maker's pencil.

[Cochese]

For my shop pencil, I use Rockler's cabinet maker's pencil.

That's awesome. I'd buy that.

I can get such a finer point with standard pencils and it's not a community-college course in trying to do it, either.

[wardprobst]

I've used carpenter pencils for rough work since I started working. I typically have a small hand plane in my apron, works well.
DP

[cabinetman]

I also use what's called "leadholders" which are mechanical pencils that take different leads. The leads slide in from the nose and a spring loaded jaw holds them at any desired length. Sharpening them is done with what's called a "lead pointer", which is basically a sharpener that grinds the lead in a holder by the turning of the insert barrel. The holder stops short of the abrasive, and as the barrel turns it shapes the lead to a very sharp point.

.

[jking]

I don't use the flat carpenters pencils, but I am curious how that sharpener works. Can you elaborate?

.

The sharpener is two main pieces. One piece that holds the blade & a second that you insert the pencil into. There is some kind of internal lip that holds the two pieces together, but, allows them to rotate. You insert the pencil and hold the pencil while rotating the part that has the blade. The blade is curved, so, it takes a concave cut. the curved blade is what allows it to cut all four sides of the flat pencil. I've had ok results with mine. Fine for framing work, but, that's probably it.

[cabinetman]

The sharpener is two main pieces. One piece that holds the blade & a second that you insert the pencil into. There is some kind of internal lip that holds the two pieces together, but, allows them to rotate. You insert the pencil and hold the pencil while rotating the part that has the blade. The blade is curved, so, it takes a concave cut. the curved blade is what allows it to cut all four sides of the flat pencil. I've had ok results with mine. Fine for framing work, but, that's probably it.

Thanks. It's hard to envision rotating a flat pencil against a cutting blade.

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