Honing Guide

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  • chopnhack
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 3779
    • Florida
    • Ryobi BT3100

    Honing Guide

    I broke down and bought one... I figured that I spend more in replacement #2 phillips bits than I would on this Robert Larson honing guide.

    Does anyone else have one? The general design seems to be the same as other higher dollar ones. I wanted to pick up a lie nielsen or lee valley one, but I have no reason to order anything from either and shipping would be as much as the item itself... Its a shame LV almost never has free shipping..

    I use a piece of granite and sandpaper currently and I get a near mirror finish, but I am sure that doing it by hand doesn't leave the optimum blade angle or micro bevel on the iron. For $11, if its not sharper than by hand at least I am not out much. I think I might be surprised by just how much sharper I can get them though
    I think in straight lines, but dream in curves
  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15216
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2
    I have that one and a few others. They do hold angles better than free hand.

    .

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    • chopnhack
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 3779
      • Florida
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      Cool, c-man has yours held up well in use?
      I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

      Comment

      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15216
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #4
        Originally posted by chopnhack
        Cool, c-man has yours held up well in use?
        Heck yeah. Once you get the angle, make sure it doesn't slip.

        .

        Comment

        • cabinetman
          Gone but not Forgotten RIP
          • Jun 2006
          • 15216
          • So. Florida
          • Delta

          #5
          I also have this one. Works good too.

          .

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          • sweensdv
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2002
            • 2860
            • WI
            • Baileigh TS-1040P-50

            #6
            I have the Larson and it does work well. It can be difficult at times to get it setup properly but once you do its easy peasy to use. Having said that, if this was something that I would use on a weekly or even monthly basis then I would definitely upgrade to a more user friendly styled one.
            _________________________
            "Have a Great Day, unless you've made other plans"

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            • chopnhack
              Veteran Member
              • Oct 2006
              • 3779
              • Florida
              • Ryobi BT3100

              #7
              Originally posted by sweensdv
              I have the Larson and it does work well. It can be difficult at times to get it setup properly but once you do its easy peasy to use. Having said that, if this was something that I would use on a weekly or even monthly basis then I would definitely upgrade to a more user friendly styled one.
              With my luck, I sharpen yearly LOL
              I think I will figure some sort of angle block to set the chisel and plane distance.
              I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

              Comment

              • thetimbo
                Forum Newbie
                • Mar 2010
                • 36

                #8
                I have that too. I got a piece of half-inch glass at the glazier's shop, sprayed it with 3m adhesive and applied a variety of papers to it in succession (got the variety pack at HF). First an 80 grit, all the way through 1200 grit, about a dozen grits in all. This would work on your granite slab, too. It's been called the "scary sharp" system. When you're ready to begin, make sure you tighten the set screw with a screwdriver after you've found your angle in order to ensure no movement of the iron as you work through your grits. Hope that helps!

                Comment

                • cwsmith
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2005
                  • 2745
                  • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                  • BT3100-1

                  #9
                  At first I tried it by hand with the first set of chisels I bought back in the 70's (Sears Companion). Over the years the bevel went from flat, to sort of a slight curve. Just couldn't keep the chisels fixed through the stroke across the whetstone.

                  A few years ago I picked up a set of Marples' Sheffield chisels and moved to a half-tile of granit and using automotive-grade "wetordry". Better, but still the problem with holding the angle through the stroke.

                  A year or so ago I got the Lee-Valley honing guide (a couple of times a year they do offer free shipping, over a particular expenditure). For me, the guide makes all the difference in the world. I now get very flat, mirror-like finishes on the bevel, a quick twist on the guide roller knob results in a nice micro-bevel too. The one thing that makes all the difference in the world, is a few strokes to keep the back of the blade flat.

                  BTW, even those old "Companion" chisels look and work a lot better now for those quick out-of-the-toolbox utility needs.

                  CWS
                  Last edited by cwsmith; 12-12-2012, 11:31 AM.
                  Think it Through Before You Do!

                  Comment

                  • chopnhack
                    Veteran Member
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 3779
                    • Florida
                    • Ryobi BT3100

                    #10
                    Good stuff guys. Thanks Tim.

                    CWS - at what grit are you stopping at and do you strop after or not?
                    I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                    Comment

                    • woodturner
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jun 2008
                      • 2047
                      • Western Pennsylvania
                      • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                      #11
                      Originally posted by cwsmith
                      Over the years the bevel went from flat, to sort of a slight curve. Just couldn't keep the chisels fixed through the stroke across the whetstone.
                      What I do is "lock" my arm against my side to make a straight, even stroke.

                      I find it faster and easier to just do it by hand. Guides take time to set up and use, and with some practice, comparable or better results can be achieved by hand. The hand method also adding a micro bevel without resetting the guide, and the microbevel extends the life of the edge and reduces the amount of sharpening required.
                      --------------------------------------------------
                      Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

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                      • cabinetman
                        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                        • Jun 2006
                        • 15216
                        • So. Florida
                        • Delta

                        #12
                        Pocket knives may benefit from "free hand sharpening". But, IMO, chisels and plane irons get the best edge with a guide.

                        .

                        Comment

                        • woodturner
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jun 2008
                          • 2047
                          • Western Pennsylvania
                          • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                          #13
                          Originally posted by cabinetman
                          But, IMO, chisels and plane irons get the best edge with a guide.
                          It does take some practice with hand methods to even equal the results achieved with a guide. For those with less experience or who don't want to spend the time to practice, guides will give better, more consistent results.

                          The primary advantage of hand methods is that they allow us to do "custom" edges. A guide provides a flat edge, but for some applications a convex or concave edge will give better results. For example, we often want to hollow grind plane irons, as well as "crown" the edge slightly. This is easily achieved with hand methods, but requires multiple setups with a guide, and we really cannot crown the edge with a guide.

                          In addition, profiled edges like a moulding plane iron cannot be sharpened with a guide, they have to be done by hand.
                          --------------------------------------------------
                          Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                          Comment

                          • cwsmith
                            Veteran Member
                            • Dec 2005
                            • 2745
                            • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                            • BT3100-1

                            #14
                            Chopnhack,

                            I go to 1200, using 3M "Imperial Wetordry". The original well-worn (wrongly) of my oldest chisels had to start at 300 and then to 800, 1000 and 1200. To maintain the newer chisels that I haven't messed up, I just go to the 1200.

                            I don't have a stropping leather, though I have tried and old wide leather belt. I have found that just plain gray-brown cardboard works well for a final "dressing" (Perhaps I should be embarrassed to say, but the cardboard is typically from food/cereal boxes... but it seems to work better than my old belt, and the price is right.)

                            CWS
                            Think it Through Before You Do!

                            Comment

                            • cabinetman
                              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                              • Jun 2006
                              • 15216
                              • So. Florida
                              • Delta

                              #15
                              Originally posted by woodturner
                              It does take some practice with hand methods to even equal the results achieved with a guide. For those with less experience or who don't want to spend the time to practice, guides will give better, more consistent results.
                              You're absolutely right. For those that don't want to spend the money for a guide, or think that their handheld method is easy, or maybe just intimidated by instrumental help, might think the edge they get is good enough. Or, they may not have the patience or know how to set up a guide, even though it's a fairly quick and simple procedure.

                              .

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