Upgrading TS - How much HP is really needed?

[tgaut]

I’m a long time lurker, first time poster (obvious, huh?). I originally bought my Sears 21829 when I was short on space and needed portability. We have since moved into a new home with a dedicated workshop including a 220v service. So I now want to upgrade to a cabinet table saw.

I’m seriously considering a SawStop specifically for the safety features but I’m torn between the 1.75 and 3 HP models. I have been very happy with the 21829. I’m generally cutting sheet goods and 2” dimensional lumber (soft and hardwood).

I assume that no one ever regrets buying more power. However, is the $430 difference in the start price worth the extra money? By the way, I plan to buy the optional dust collection blade guard for the 1.75 HP (included on the 3 HP model) so I guess the difference is only $290.

I know the 300 bucks does not sound like much but I am really stretching my budget going with the SawStop.

Regards, Tommy

[Knottscott]

1.75hp is more sensitive to blade selection, alignment, whether or not the wood is flat and straight, etc., and you'll need to feed slower, but it'll do. 3hp doesn't work as hard, and should last longer.

[BigguyZ]

I'm also looking to upgrade. Myself- if I was investing in that much money, I'd wait the additional month or two until I could afford the best one. The cost of admission is high enough, you might as well not have to worry about not getting the right one.

[cabinetman]

Any saw will perform at its peak with the proper blade, and alignment setup. You can't go wrong with the larger saw. If you plan on getting the use out of a tablesaw, the SS is definitely a safer way to go.

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[dbhost]

Don't get me wrong, I love my BT, it has done everything I have wanted it to do, and done it well. But if I could muster up the funds for a 3HP SawStop I would have one delivered ASAP...

A big part of the reason to upgrade, in my opinion anyway, is more power, and 1.75HP really isn't much more than 1.5HP, but 3HP IS...

I wouldn't go the 5HP route for a couple of reasons, but mostly because I don't see that as being that much more beneficial compared to 3HP, at least for a home workshop. MAYBE a production shop, but you'd have to cut a LOT of THICK and VERY hard woods for the 5HP upgrade to make sense...

[greenacres2]

Does the 3 hp version still have a 5/8" arbor? That step up to a 1" arbor sure looks like it kicks up the price of blades. At a real difference of $290, for that kind of money it's not a huge difference. At least not when i'm spending YOURS!!

earl

[big tim]

I basically echo what everyone else is saying. I upgraded from my BT3000 to the SawStop PCS.3HP 220V. 2-1/2 years ago. Ample power, smooth running. I bought the industrial mobile base for it. All four casters on the industrial base swivel, which gives it more mobility allowing you to turn the saw on a dime, so to speak. The integrated base for the PCS has two fixed casters.
If you're interested I can e-mail you or post a bunch of pictures of the assembly of the saw. By the way the instruction manual is absolutely phenomenal.

Tim

[JimD]

How often to you rip really thick hardwood? I have cut 3.5 inch oak and hard maple on my BT3100. You need a rip blade and it needs to be clean and sharp and you have to go a little slower than normal. You could make the same cut with a 3hp saw with a combination blade but if it is dirty you'll get burning and if it isn't sharp the saw could still bog down. If you do this a lot, you may "need" the more powerful saw. If you do it only occasionally and are willing to clean the blade if necessary and make sure it is sharp, I don't see why you "need" more power. For average cuts, I don't think you will see any difference.

I wore out the arbor on a "Gil-built" saw with a 1hp induction motor. It had about the same power as the BT3100 and pulled the same amps. Current draw is a better indicator of power than hp ratings IMHO. Nothing that will run on a 20amp 120V service can pull much more than my old 1hp motor (so it's probably pretty close to the "1.75hp" saw you are considering). The motor is still fine. I mention this to say that a correctly made 120V motor will not in my experience fail to outlast most of us. I don't think there will be a reliability difference.

Jim

[dusty]

If I was a professional wood worker, I would have no problem justifying a SawStop. I would prefer an old Unisaw in good condition but that is another debate.

Since I am not a professional wood worker, in my opinion, the cost of either puts both out of reach. There are too many reasonably priced table saws available, including the BT, that do a good job (for any non-professional).

[toolguy1000]

my two 10" emerson built TSs (one hp c-man and 1.5 hp ridgid, both wired for 110v) have met every challenge up to and including 2" hardwoods, with the right blade. i sold a refurbished 3hp unisaw for lack of room. i just didn't see any incremental utility in a hobbyist environment for 3hp.

[tgaut]

Since I'll never be more than a hobbyist, I agree that more horsepower may not be needed for my situation.

How about from a safety viewpoint? Since lower power is dependent upon blade selection, fence alignment and operator diligence, would more power be less prone to binding and kick-backs (assuming the operator isn't doing something stupid)?

My thanks for your feedback.

Regards, Tommy

[dbhost]

Since I'll never be more than a hobbyist, I agree that more horsepower may not be needed for my situation.

How about from a safety viewpoint? Since lower power is dependent upon blade selection, fence alignment and operator diligence, would more power be less prone to binding and kick-backs (assuming the operator isn't doing something stupid)?

My thanks for your feedback.

Regards, Tommy

While I can't say for a fact, I don't think motor power is a safety issue per se all other things being equal, however I have heard of people doing very stupid, very dangerous things trying to force material through a saw blade they might not do with a more powerful saw...

Pretty sure I mentioned it above. I haven't come across anything I wanted to do with my BT that I haven't been able to do. I want a SawStop 3HP PCS, but that is a LONG way off in justification... My biggest selling point is that blade brake. If the BT had the same tech, I probably wouldn't give it more than a passing thought. Maybe when it finally dies off, but that is a long way off..

[toolguy1000]

IMHO, more hp would probably just help dangerous situations reach their inevitable conclusions more quickly and violently.

[JimD]

I agree with toolguy. I've stopped the blade on my 110V saws when things were going wrong. Most typically it was wood with a bad warp pinching the blade. I've also stopped attempted kickbacks, however. I doubt I would have stopped the wood with a 3hp motor. I don't think more power = more safety. If anything I think it goes a little the other way. Usually does (cars and other things). I think more power is occasionally more convenient.

Jim

[Sawatzky]

I have had a Ridgid contractor saw for 4 1/2 and before that I had the BT3100. The Ridgid has 1.5 HP, but to me it seems and feels a whole lot more powerful than the BT. I don't cut a lot of really thick wood, but so far I have not needed any more power than 1.5 HP and I do use my table saw quite a bit.