Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw - Thoughts?

[motor]

I see these saws listed on Craigslist all the time with prices ranging from free to $150. I'm intrigued by the saw first because it's cheap, and secondly I like the idea of making longer cuts than I can on my chop saw, but quicker and easier to use than my table saw.

Any thought on this type of saw, any user feedback? I'd mostly use the saw for smaller projects such as building smaller projects, boxes, etc.

Thanks!

[cabinetman]

I've always had a RAS in the shop. I had plans to make one into a radial arm router, so I would pick up another one and kept it in waiting 'til I had the time. I would wind up selling one and then the cycle would start again. Most of them were like this one, that was getting prepped to be given away to a friend when this picture was taken.

They are like any other tool, in that they need to be maintained. The difference is that it is the one tool that has many moving parts...more IMO than any other stationary tool. Without the ability to tune them up they can be a constant source of aggravation. But, if well maintained, can be one useful tool.

I don't agree that the saw can "come at you". The distance between the table and the arm is fixed, and the motor can't climb on top of stock being cut. Very thin materials can allow the saw's movement to feel like that, but with experience the "feel" of the pull controls those movements. Having a good negative hook blade helps with the aggressive feel.

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[toolguy1000]

this one was a cast of from a neighbor with an arm that wouldn't rotate 7 years ago. $60 in parts and it works perfectly and, with an adapted retrofit table kit (free), will crosscut 15+". i wouldn't be without it. but stick with a unit that is CI only. later c-man units with bolt together column supports did not enjoy a good reputation for maintaining their settings. just keep your hands clear of th eblade as you pull it towards you.

[toolguy1000]

oops. double posted.

[Cochese]

If I had room for one, I'd own one. Or it would be at the top of my list. The sweet spot I see for offered units is about $100, which makes me laugh when I see what new ones go for at Sears.

What gets most people in trouble with them is putting a standard blade on them.

[Bill in Buena Park]

As Cab said, you have to keep the saw calibrated - and can do all sorts of projects. My RAS was my primary saw for years before I started working projects requiring greater than 14in rip capacity. I don't use mine for ripping anymore, mostly for cross cuts, non-through crosscuts and dadoing. But I primarily use mine to break down long, wide stock (up to 14in for my saw).

[LCHIEN]

Most ripping and crosscutting needs can be met by having two saws, a TS & MS, or a TS and RAS, or a RAS and TS. Having all three would be almost redundant. Most would narrow it down to a TS and a MS or a TS and RAS. The RAS/MS combo would be weak in ripping - the RAS can rip but its not its best operation.

Between a RAS/TS or a MS/TS the RAS offers some potentially wider crosscutting (although a 12" sliding mitersaw can be as good).

OTOH, the RAS is a bit more finicky.

RAS can be picked up cheaply since their popularity has long since peaked. There was also a period when there were major safety recalls on RAS so they may have a bad rap. To date the many of the craftsman saws are still eligible for recall, parts of the saw can be replaced for free or they will buy back major parts for $50 or $100. (Search google for radial arm saw recall for details and models.)

So all in all it comes down to a preference and what you may already have. RAS have certain pro and con lists vs MS which have all be discussed before. An almost free RAS can tip the difference.

you say you'll "use the saw for smaller projects such as building smaller projects, boxes, etc". if that's the case then the larger crosscut capability of the RAS would hardly seem much of an advantage.

[woodturner]

Any thought on this type of saw, any user feedback? I'd mostly use the saw for smaller projects such as building smaller projects, boxes, etc.

Some Craftsman radial arm saws are not accurate and are difficult to keep in alignment. Some models from the late 70's to mid '80's used round metal rods as the guide, and the rods are not machined and are not straight. As a result, it is impossible to get a good cut with them. Others apparently find the cut satisfactory, but a perfectionist like myself would not be happy with it for anything other than carpentry. They can be retrofitted with machined drill rod, but it's really not worth the effort.

To avoid this issue, look for a saw where the carriage rides on a machined surface - and avoid saws where the carriage rides on an unmachined surface. The carriage ways have to be machined straight to avoid a "wobble" in the carriage. In other words, the carriage and therefore the blade move slightly side to side as the carriage traverses the arm, which leaves blade marks in the cut.

A RAS is a good crosscut tool, if you get a decent one. In terms of price for performance, the Ryobi RA2500 was top notch - I still have and use the one I bought in the late 1980's. Rarely see them used and for sale, though. The older DeWalt, Rockwell, Delta, and possibly much older Craftsman saws are pretty good, too, and are more available.

[cabinetman]

The Craftsman radial arm saws are not accurate and are difficult to keep in alignment. The saws from the mid-70's and on use round metal rods as the guide, and the rods are not machined and are not straight. As a result, it is impossible to get a true cut with them. They can be retrofitted with machined drill rod, but it's really not worth the effort.

Knowing how to set up a RAS and maintain it for accurate cutting takes a familiarity with the tool. For infrequent use and an incomplete understanding of how to adjust the different parts of the saw can account for the saw's poor performance. I've had many Craftsman saws, and many RAS's from 9" to 14", and if there were defective parts, those parts got replaced. The rolling carriage has adjustable roller bearings. With proper use and maintenance, the tracks, rods, or guides don't get damaged.

A blanket statement that Craftsman radial arm saws are not accurate is just not true. If it's impossible to get true cuts with your RAS, that tool is not for you.

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[cwsmith]

I have a 1973 Craftsman RAS which I purchased new back then. When I first purchased it, I did quite a few "carpentry" projects for the first ten years or so and then stored it away as the career took over my life. I did dig it out in 2003 and in 2005 I bought my first table saw, the BT3100.

While I have ripped a ton of stuff on the RAS, without any mishaps, there is no question that the table saw is the preferred tool of that. However, when it comes to cross cuts of any kind, the RAS is the superior tool, in my experienced opinion.

Presently, the RAS is the center of my small basement shop. I cannot imagine ever working wood without it. It is the very first cutting tool that I go to, except for ripping!

Regarding it's accuracy, I've never had a serious problem with mine. It has the cast iron column, and following the procedures and cautions and care/use of the arm rotation, the indexing pin/release should NOT give any problems and on my particular model, it is not a simple rod. (There is rod shaft, tranversing between the front arm release lever, and the indexing pin, which seats into brake shoe and arm latch collar on the column.) Like with any tool, you need to heed some care in it's use in order to keep the alignment apparatus from being damaged.

The RAS and a well-maintained table and fence will provide you a tremendous cross-cut capability. In my little shop, I can handle up to 14 ft lengths of board stock (in feed) and outfeed to slightly over 6 ft. Within the range of my fence stop, I can deliver any length up to 52-inchs of exact lengths, repeatably!

For that reason alone, the RAS is very much worth having it. But, it is also very much the tool to have for even small needs, like yesterday I need four small 4-1/4 inch long pieces... I wouldn't think of doing that on a table saw. On the RAS, I had those in less than minute.

Just make sure the carriage and arm has no loose play and that everything locks down properly and isn't missing any parts.

CWS

[woodturner]

It has the cast iron column, and following the procedures and cautions and care/use of the arm rotation, the indexing pin/release should NOT give any problems and on my particular model, it is not a simple rod.

As far as I know, it's only the ones with an unmachined rod that sits in a groove on the arm that have the accuracy issue. The saws are like this one - part 25 on the arm assembly drawing is the unmachined metal track.

[cabinetman]

As far as I know, it's only the ones with an unmachined rod that sits in a groove on the arm that have the accuracy issue. The saws are like this one - part 25 on the arm assembly drawing is the unmachined metal track.

I've had that model. If needed, with ordinary adjustments, cuts accurately.

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[cwsmith]

I see what you mean!

When I bought my 73' it was shortly after my FIL had returned from a new product review meeting at Sears Chicago HQ. (At the time, my FIL was an award-winning, hardware manager for Sears.)

He called me to let me know that if I wanted an RAS, "now was the time" as he had only three in stock and they were the last of the "cast iron" column and arm series and from that meeting, the new RAS series would be "fabricated" and, in his opinion, substantially "cheaper" construction. I jumped in the car and drove the 150 mile round trip to make the purchase the next day.

Mine is the 113-29461 with the arm latch and lock-knob on the front of the arm, instead of that T-handle release on top. My power switch is key-lockable and located immediately to the upper left of the carriage handle where it is easily toggled. Over the following years I noticed how the operating and adjustment controls seemed to get moved around a bit, often to the point where they weren't as convenient.

My RAS doesn't have the lower blade guard, though one was available at the time, as an extra-cost accessory. Regardless, I still consider this a terrific tool and wouldn't be without it... to the point I bought another one a couple of years ago, just for back-up parts.

CWS

[sscherin]

Hmm maybe I should fix up that 1960's RAS sitting under my shed.
I can't remember if it's a Rockwell or a Dewalt.

[eezlock]

Craftsman radial arm saw

Before buying any Craftsman radial arm saw, you should check on their recalled
items list to see if that saw is one of the one's that were recalled a few years ago. I don't remember the model number of that saw,but there was a BIG,BIG
deal about a certain one of their's that was a potential danger, and Sears had to
recall the motors on them and pay the owners for them. In this case, better off
safe, than sorry later!