DC For A Lathe

[cabinetman]

Has anyone come up with an ingenious DC setup for a lathe?


.

[Pappy]

The only thing I have seen anyone try was the large hoods that were also used behind miter and radial arm saws, neither with a large degree of reported success.

I was looking on Woodcraft for the hood and saw this.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/208...tion-hood.aspx

I have tinkered with a design in my head of something similar with the ends rounded mor to allow it to be closer to the work piece. A longer collector hood would be nice, but I don't think it would be effective with a single 4" suction point. Maybe a manifold of some sort on the back to spread the vacuum?

[Richard in Smithville]

That looks like something that I need. They say it's ideal for pen turning.

[gerti]

I use part of one of those aluminum semi-ridgid dryer ducts. Flexible enough to put where needed, stiff enough to stay in place.

[leehljp]

I have used a 4 inch water drain pipe "T". I cut an amount off of the upper part of the "T" to make a "C". Works fine for what I need. I did add some home made half caps on the ends to make it better for pens. It wasn't hard to hook the 4" T to the duct work either.

I think you can find some 6" pipes and "T's" if you needed bigger.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I have used a 4 inch water drain pipe "T". I cut an amount off of the upper part of the "T" to make a "C". Works fine for what I need. I did add some home made half caps on the ends to make it better for pens. It wasn't hard to hook the 4" T to the duct work either.

Since my turning right now is primarily pens, this is exactly what I have done as well, and cut enough off the upper part of the "C" so I could attach some clear lexan to provide the benefit of a shield I could see through. In my set up, the "C" completely surrounds the pen blank, and the throat of the T is then only ~2.5in away from the blank. The bottom of the T is fitted with a short piece of drain pipe to act as a nipple, which I can slide into an elbow that sits atop a riser to which I connect my 4in DC line. I made it removable so that I could exchange the T for a short segment of pipe during sanding operations, as the T prohibits good access to the blank for sanding. I also tried endcaps on the T, and found that the airflow is good enough I don't need them.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Added some pictures of what I described above. First two show the T in position, third is the "sanding" config.