Time for some new BS blades

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    #1

    Time for some new BS blades

    I was expecting not to get much use out of the blade I got with my Powermatic riser kit, I just wasn't expecting it to be quite this bad. Like, my HF blade is twice as good, easily. I know there's likely differences between TPI, rake, etc, but for the different kinds of cuts I've done, the HF stock blade smoked the Powermatic one.

    Now, yes...blades. I've seen the different recommendations of what brand or who to go to. What I'd like to know is what exactly I'm looking for without calling someone and wasting their time.

    My task yesterday involved resawing a 2x4 for mattress support slats. I know I'll be resawing hardwoods at some point, and I don't know what I'll primarily be doing. I know I would like to try my hand at making some chairs, which will involve some gentile curves.

    I have no idea which TPI and width is good for what. I know I'll have to buy at least 2-3 blades.
    I have a little blog about my shop
  • toolguy1000
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2009
    • 1142
    • westchester cnty, ny

    #2
    1/2" wide .025" 3tpi lennox from iturra design. see what your BS is really capable of with a really good blade that's welded properly. i'm sure there are others, but i know timberwolf isn't one of them. and if lou iturra can't set you straight on what you need for your intended purpose, no one can. and a purchase from him gets you a catalog (if you don't already have one), which has almost as many helpful articles as it does products.
    there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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    • tommyt654
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2008
      • 2334

      #3
      http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm , best place overall to purchase blades IMO, as well as the cheapest but you do have to buy 5 blades, but you can get different sizes and without paying for a catalog,plus they actually have a website and are always there to answer any question you might have regarding set-ups and such, not knockin Iturra but he's overated IMO and you can download his catalog off the internet as I recall, yes it has some info in it about as much as Lonnie Birds book

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      • AlanWS
        Established Member
        • Dec 2003
        • 257
        • Shorewood, WI.

        #4
        I also like Woodcraftbands. To get the lowest price you do need to order 5 bands, but it's only $1 more per band if you buy fewer, so it still may be the cheapest way to go.
        Alan

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        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #5
          I still haven't bought any blades, but my next project I think is going to require that to be remedied. Going to go with a Woodslicer for resawing, but needed some specs on a good general purpose blade. Width, TPI, etc.

          For GP I guess I'm looking for good curves more so than a smooth finish?

          Considering replacing the tension spring at the same time. I'd like to put in a Carter quick release, but that's too pricey at this point.
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Super Moderator
            • Dec 2002
            • 21830
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            I have a 1/2" woodslicer and its an excellent blade for your resawing, straight ripping etc.

            Here's some of the very general selection guidlines for bandsaw blades as I understand them:

            For cutting curves, you need to take into account the radius of the curves. The radius you can cut gets smaller as the front-back Width of the blade gets smaller, e.g. a 1/8" blade will cut a sharper curve than a 1/4". It has to do with the kerf (width of the cut due to the set in the teeth), the actual width of the blade (usually around .020") and the F-B width of the blade being able to turn what angle in the Kerf. Somewhere there's tables on radius and blade wdith (I know my delta BS came with this table in the manual AND on a decal inside the upper door).

            Finally tooth count: more teeth will cut faster up until the point where the gullet (valley between the teeth) fills up with cuttings and keeps the teeth from cutting anymore at which point you start to burn the wood from friction. So for cuts in deep wood you need low TPI count which gives big gullets and for thinner material you need more TPI so that you keep at least a few teeth in the cut.

            So, if you are resawing some thick wood like 6" tree logs, or taking 6x6 down to 2x6s then you will want something like a 3 TPI blade.

            If you are cutting plywood 1/4 to 3/4" then you will want something like 10-12 TPI.

            If you are resawing the logs or 6x6 then you probably want nice straight cuts, a 1/2 or, if your saw is big enough 3/4 or 1" wide blades are good.

            If you are cutting some 4" thick wood blocks into bandsaw boxes then 6 TPI and 1/4" or smaller blades might be good.

            Making reindeer at a wood show, you going to need 1/8" blade with 6-10 TPI.

            Cutting 12" plywood circles you need 12 TPI and 3/8" blade.


            Most probably you can pick a selection of about 3 combinations to cover most work, like:
            1/2" 3 TPI
            3/8" 6 TPI
            1/4" 12 TPI
            Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-06-2012, 03:52 PM.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • Cochese
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 1988

              #7
              Picked up a 1/4" 6TPI blade to start out with, an Olson All-Pro. Same TPI as the Powermatic, but 1/4" vs 1/2" that I think the PM is. Spent a lot of time setting up this new blade, along with a Carter Cobra Coil. Getting the new blade to track properly on the wheels was a long effort, but it got done.

              Not sure I have enough tension on the blade. The tension screw won't turn anymore, and I wonder if it's due to the new spring getting caught on something, because it won't loosen right now either. Couldn't spend a lot of time on it yesterday, I may get back out there later and look at it.

              Going to pick up the Wood Slicer next time I go into work, which right now isn't until the end of the month.
              I have a little blog about my shop

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