BS Quick Release Purpose; Right Tension?

[leehljp]

My Grizzly 0555P has a Quick Release. It doesn't do what I thought it was supposed to do.

IS it a Tension release only - for releasing to minimal tension, (but remaining in tension)?
OR a total quick release for blade change? Mine does not release enough for changing blades, that is for sure.

The QR on mine releases what shows to be the equivalent of about 1/4 inch. In other words, when I set the BS tension to 3/8+ inch (with the QR not released) and then decide to release use the QR, the tension is released down to just about 1/8. This is still too much tension for changing blades.

IS this normal?

I tried a 1/2 in blade and pulled the tension for 1/2 in. The QR released the tension down to 1/4", which meant that I still needed to unscrew it to change the blade. I guess this is normal and am accepting that the QR is for partial tension release only - for when not in use.
Is this right?



PART 2
ACHIEVING the RIGHT TENSION:

In accordance with the instructions, I tighten the blade to normal for the blade size, turn on the BS and loosen the blade until it flutters and then tighten it back until the flutter is gone.
. . . sounds good!

BUT . . .
I could not get a flutter out of my 1/2 or 3/8 in blade. I backed both down to the equivalent of a 1/8 in blade, and neither gave me a "flutter". I could turn the saw off and the blade would be loose enough to easily move with a finger, but it would not flutter when running.

SINCE it does not flutter, how do I gauge where to start from - to get the right tension for the blade.

OK, in other words, how do I introduce flutter to the blade? The Guides are lifted to about 10 inches, so there is plenty of space for flutter to happen.


Thanks for you suggestions and insights.

[cork58]

The answer is in Louis Iturra's bible of the bandsaw catalog. If you give them a call @ 904-642-2802 they will send you one for free. He spends a complete chapter on blade tension. I could scan the pages for you and e-mail them. He makes it very clear that what the manufacturer's don't take into consideration the type of blade being used and all the variables. I don't have a tension gauge yet myself but am saving up to get one from him. Just can't justify it yet, I don't use it enough to spend the money. I have learned from trial and error what the blade should feel like, but I went through some blades to learn it. As far as the quick release handle it is my understanding that it is only for releasing after the day is done and saving you last setting. That's why I don't have one. I can turn the handle to release it just fine.

[LarryG]

IS it a Tension release only - for releasing to minimal tension, (but remaining in tension)?
OR a total quick release for blade change? Mine does not release enough for changing blades, that is for sure.

My G0555 is not the "P" model, and is about five or six years old so things may have changed, but my saw's tension release takes ALL the tension off the blade -- more than enough to change blades. With the lever released, I can easily pull the blade off the wheels with only a couple fingers.

[sweensdv]

The tension release is primarily there to save wear and tear on the wheel bearings, blade and tires. Ease in blade changing is not one of its primary functions. That being said, I think that the amount of tension release varies from mfg. to mfg. The tension release on my Rikon offers enough relief where I can actually change out the blade. There is a downside to that though in that if I detension the blade I have to be careful not to bump the blade when its detensioned cause if I do it could throw off the tracking.

[dbhost]

I added the G0555 tension release assy to my HF 32208 band saw. The tension release takes enough off of the blade to wiggle the blade off the wheels, but not super easily slide it off...

[leehljp]

Cork,
I ordered the catalog and was told that it has some good advice.

Larry,
I called Grizzly Tech Support and was told by them that the current models are for tension "release" from full tension, not for blade changing.

The tech fellow repeated the Grizzly BS Booklet's method of "flutter". I told him that the flutter was not there even at 1/8 inch> He said that that should be enough. I told him that the blade "would" flutter when wood hit it and probably jump off the wheel with that little tension, and I wasn't going to try to saw with a 1/2" blade tensioned to 1/8".

He said that if my BS didn't flutter with a 1/2" blade down to about 1/8", then I must have a might fine planner/coplanner set up. I told him mine came that way. But I did check it new and have re-checked it. It is set up perfect in the alignment of the wheels.


What I have read already on tensioning and what the fellow at Grizzly said seem to be the opposite. Grizzly says use minimum tension needed for each operation and that would usually be less than the markings on the gauge for a particular size blade. A couple of other articles that I found on the internet suggest that normal tension is usually more than the gauge recommendation on the back.

I have been reading more on tensioning and will wait on the book from Itura. Actually, they have two catalogs - free one and a thicker one for $5.00 that has a lot more articles in it. I ordered the $5.00 one.

[Whaler]

I have the Carter system on my PM and it is designed with a stop to just release tension and then can be dropped all the way down for a blade change.

[leehljp]

The tension release is primarily there to save wear and tear on the wheel bearings, blade and tires. Ease in blade changing is not one of its primary functions. That being said, I think that the amount of tension release varies from mfg. to mfg.

This is what I am finding out! Good to know this, and I am learning!

Dick, - 3 way - Tension, Tension Release, Blade Change. But of course - your BS is Gold and has Cartier fittings! That is nice!

[leehljp]

I added the G0555 tension release assy to my HF 32208 band saw. The tension release takes enough off of the blade to wiggle the blade off the wheels, but not super easily slide it off...

My BS came in with perfect alignments on the wheels, but I am having thoughts about the release mechanism and if it was set up right or not.

Where did you get the tension release assembly? I cannot find it at Grizzly and would love to see the explanation and set up for adding one onto an existing BS.

HEY All, I just found a note that deals with if there is not enough motion in the tensioner. I will work on this and see what happens. Looks like it will be tomorrow afternoon or Thursday before I can get to it though. I have a meeting this evening and one most of Wednesday.

[leehljp]

I found this quote back in the back of the booklet in "troubleshooting" - on fixing the tension, which is opposite of the customer service/tech support fellow's advice:

"Move the quick release lever up to the vertical position and make sure there is not tension on the blade. If all the tension is not released, the lower space needs to be threaded farther down the shaft toward the pensioner casting." Of course there was more to it on the full adjustment, but that one statement indicates that the tension should totally release.

I should be able to do as Larry and DB do on their BS.

I have a guest coming in a few minutes, so not enough time tonight. Will get it tomorrow afternoon hopefully!

Thanks for the help. Now to find the correct tensioning method.

[toolguy1000]

FWIW, i'd follow any instruction i got from lou iturra regarding band saw blade tensioning. that flutter method has received both positive and negative comments, so i wouldn't put much faith in it (i couldn't seem to get it to "flutter" correctly either). it's also promoted by suffolk machinery, producers of the timberwolf low tension blades. and the increasing number of negative comments i've seen ragarding their blade welds would, in my mind, make their tensioning suggestions suspect.

[Dal300]

You could always use a tensioning method I've been using....

Spread your digital calipers to 5", attach to the blade with spring clamps while the blade is un-tensioned. Zero the gauge. Apply tension using .001" = 6000 psi

I set my 1/2" blades at .0035

I don't have much faith in "feel" or "flutter". It seems to me that those terms could mean different things to different people.

[toolguy1000]

You could always use a tensioning method I've been using....

Spread your digital calipers to 5", attach to the blade with spring clamps while the blade is un-tensioned. Zero the gauge. Apply tension using .001" = 6000 psi

I set my 1/2" blades at .0035

I don't have much faith in "feel" or "flutter". It seems to me that those terms could mean different things to different people.

that sounds very interesting, but i can't follow your technique. any chance for a few pics of what you're doing?

[Dal300]

By attaching the caliper to the untensioned blade and zeroing it, you have set a base line for your blades ability to stretch.
By using Young's Modulus of steel, we know (assume) that .001" of stretch equates to about 6,000 psi.
So, if we tighten the tensioning knob and stretch the caliper to read .003" we have put in in the 18,000 psi category.
I stretch mine to .0035" which gives me around 21000 psi... right in the general neighborhood of the factory specs for band saw blade tension.

It doesn't matter how thick or wide or long the steel is, because in order to stretch it .001" the tension has to be 6,000 +/- psi over the whole mass being measured.

I'll try and get pictures tomorrow of how it works, but basically when you use the caliper you are doing the same thing as when you use a tensioning gauge, although for a lot less cash outlay.

[Chris_B]

It doesn't matter how thick or wide or long the steel is, because in order to stretch it .001" the tension has to be 6,000 +/- psi over the whole mass being measured.

Very clever - and simple!

Thanks for posting!