dial-a-width slot cutter

[LCHIEN]

I downloaded the book Lonnie Bird's Complete Guide to Routers courtesy of FWW as suggested in the thread http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=54727

One of the things I saw in perusing the text was a dialable width slot cutter router bit. which seemed useful. Upon a bit of web research Amana has one called a E-Z Dial slot cutter.

http://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-555...5277938&sr=8-1

there's actually two versions, the one linked is for 1/8 to 1/4" slots, and there's another model 55510 for 1/4 to 1/2" slots.

Too bad they cost $123 each!

does anyone else make these or has anyone used them?

[tommyt654]

Try Peachtree and check out there Biscuit slot cutter. I would think you could do the same in multiple cuts with an adjustable height mechanism, http://ptreeusa.com/freud_slot_cutting_bits.htm , http://ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm#2893 , plus you can get 10% off and free shipping with this code, END11

[Skaning]

Interesting. Basically it's a mini version of a wobble dado blade. That said you get a slightly rounded bottom in the slot.

[LCHIEN]

Interesting. Basically it's a mini version of a wobble dado blade. That said you get a slightly rounded bottom in the slot.

Actually that's not true at all.



the above picture from Amana shows (not very clearly) that there are four segmented winged sections - 2 fixed and the other 2 that moves with the dial - 1/32" per turn. Each wing is 1/8" for the 1/8 to 1/4" model. When the wings are at the same level it cuts 1/8", when the moveable wing is moved 1/8" it cuts 1/4" swath. Basically the dial jacks the moveable wings up and down. No tilting so no wobble or rounded bottom; the cutters are flat-top square so you get a square bottom.

[jnesmith]

Actually that's not true at all.



the above picture from Amana shows (not very clearly) that there are four segmented winged sections - 2 fixed and the other 2 that moves with the dial - 1/32" per turn. Each wing is 1/8" for the 1/8 to 1/4" model. When the wings are at the same level it cuts 1/8", when the moveable wing is moved 1/8" it cuts 1/4" swath. Basically the dial jacks the moveable wings up and down.No tilting so no wobble or rounded bottom; the cutters are flat-top square so you get a square bottom.

Yea, I don't see any similarity to one of those wobble-dadoes.

[Skaning]

My miss on that one. I was looking at the amazon photo, didn't dig any deeper.

[cabinetman]

I can see the versatility of the bit. But for that money, whenever a slot is needed to be varied, a slight adjustment to a fixed cutter can be made.

.

[LCHIEN]

I can see the versatility of the bit. But for that money, whenever a slot is needed to be varied, a slight adjustment to a fixed cutter can be made.

.

I guess you are right CM. For most people making two passes with a regular slotting bit will work. If you have to make a bottom panel slot for 20 drawers or 50 boxes then the value of the variable bit comes into play.

[cabinetman]

I guess you are right CM. For most people making two passes with a regular slotting bit will work. If you have to make a bottom panel slot for 20 drawers or 50 boxes then the value of the variable bit comes into play.

Most of my drawers have rabbeted sides, and those and the bottom groove are done on the TS.

.

[southernbob]

Eagle America slot cutter

While not a dial-a-groove, Eagle America has a 10-piece slot cutter and dado set that includes 9 slot cutters from 1/16" to 9/32" that can be used individually or in combination to make slots/dados from 1/6" to 3/4" in both 1/4" shank and 1/2" shank and priced at 139.99 for 3 wing and 159.99 for 4 wing cutters.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...groove_forming

[pelligrini]

That adjustable cutter does look neat. I probably wouldn't get one though. I don't like playing around with different bearings on my rabbeting bits.

If you have to make a bottom panel slot for 20 drawers or 50 boxes then the value of the variable bit comes into play.

If I had to make 20 drawers or 50 boxes I probably would design them to use a common size bit.

[leehljp]

That adjustable cutter does look neat. I probably wouldn't get one though. I don't like playing around with different bearings on my rabbeting bits.

If I had to make 20 drawers or 50 boxes I probably would design them to use a common size bit.

This is the way that I make drawers for the things that I make. Fast to make, strong and great alignment. However, I tend to make something that requires drawers - every 3 to 4 years . . . and this means that what is available today will not be available the next time. ON the small size for light weight drawers, I am already seeing what looks like 6 mm in stores rather than "1/4" inch minus the sizing for plywood that I use. I was somewhere in the past few months in which I saw "mm" instead of inches on some imported ply.

Standardizing is nebulous for me! I really got used to the Japanese woods and thicknesses for which I used in making drawers. I sure would like one of these so that I could change to the situation.

I have used straight bits for slots, but on medium grade wood, they seemed to have caused more splintering than with a saw blade. I never tried slot cutters but this one looks promising. However, as Loring said, the price is a bit high.

[LCHIEN]

This is the way that I make drawers for the things that I make. Fast to make, strong and great alignment. However, I tend to make something that requires drawers - every 3 to 4 years . . . and this means that what is available today will not be available the next time. ON the small size for light weight drawers, I am already seeing what looks like 6 mm in stores rather than "1/4" inch minus the sizing for plywood that I use. I was somewhere in the past few months in which I saw "mm" instead of inches on some imported ply.

Standardizing is nebulous for me! I really got used to the Japanese woods and thicknesses for which I used in making drawers. I sure would like one of these so that I could change to the situation.

I have used straight bits for slots, but on medium grade wood, they seemed to have caused more splintering than with a saw blade. I never tried slot cutters but this one looks promising. However, as Loring said, the price is a bit high.

Hank, I agree - my thought was that even if you build a mess of drawers from time to time the material that you get for bottoms might vary each batch so an adjustable slot would be grand.

The MLCS stackable set is much less but still almost $60.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...le_slot_anchor

But you can buy the arbor plus individual cutters in a limited number of sizes if you need:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...nchor_slotct3w

You may have to get some thin cutters and some shims though to get adjustment down to 1/64th (.016") since the thinnest cutter is 1/16th, to make snug fitting bottoms for undersized/off-sized/metric 3/16" or so panels.

Or, make a height adjustment and another pass.

[cabinetman]

I guess you are right CM. For most people making two passes with a regular slotting bit will work. If you have to make a bottom panel slot for 20 drawers or 50 boxes then the value of the variable bit comes into play.

Slot cutting bits, and particularly the one you posted have a 1/2" cutting depth. That's a bit deep for most drawer side grooves for a bottom. If I use a router bit for that type of grooving, it would be a straight faced bit, that I could adjust the cutting depth. As for the width, we are back to adjusting the cut by starting with the correct size bit for the bottom thickness, or a smaller one and making a second pass.

.