Fine tuning router extension wing.

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  • dbhost
    Slow and steady
    • Apr 2008
    • 9476
    • League City, Texas
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #1

    Fine tuning router extension wing.

    Well with all the other projects, the router extension wing I completed probably a year or more ago FINALLY got a workout, and some problems noticed this past couple of days.

    #1. While not blatantly obvious, until I used it there was a bit of a dip on the left side of the router insert plate that would cause a profile to be lower on the entry side, and higher on the exit side, which would make for very bad alignments doing things like mitered profiles where the edges need to meet up exactly. The fix was to shim up the base using masking tape. This is a temporary fix. Long term I figure on using counter sunk flat head screws as adjusters in the same vein as the throat plate on my Ridgid sander...

    #2. The recently arrived MLCS router table switch works far better than I had hoped. I have it bolted to the right side leg (as you face the fence) through the OEM holes.

    #3. The dust collection from the fence works great, however I have nothing going on under the table yet. I have been pondering what to do about that...

    #4. When I initially built it, I put the miter track too far from the bit. I routed the slot closer, but needed a second miter track so that I didn't just have an unfilled gap. I added said second miter track, and have already found having 2 tracks here VERY useful...

    I have a much larger problem that I am unsure how to deal with. In the middle of the wing, the hardboard is delaminating from the plywood. I need to figure out how to inject and spread glue throughout the void, and then clamp / press it together as it cures.

    With all the issues I am having with it, and the lessons I am learning / have learned, I am SERIOUSLY considering scrapping this one, and starting over from scratch with a different design, something a bit more elegant, with better lamination.... However if I can salvage this one and just move on, that is one less project to do... and a few steps closer to getting the other projects done.

    When I laminated it, I used 2x4 cauls to sprad the load across the top, it appears that it might not have been enough. Any suggestions on what I could do to make this work? The other thought was to lay some sort of sheet product OVER the lamination, and weigh it down with a bag or two of QuickCrete to act as a sort of press...
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  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    Were your cauls curved? or just a straight 2x4? A 2x4 will flex with just a bit of clamping pressure, leaving little pressure in the middle.

    To get even pressure all the way across a caul; put a spacer block in the middle of your caul holding it off of your worksurface, then tighten up your clamps on either end just as tight as you would when gluing. The ends of your caul should be lower then the middle. Scribe a straight line on the side of your caul, it will be the same distance from your worksurface. Plane or sand your caul to the scribed line.

    You can also use a spreader clamp in the middle braced against something stable overhead.
    Erik

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    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9476
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      Any idea how to get glue back in there?
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      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        can you drill from the bottom and syringe it in?
        Erik

        Comment

        • dbhost
          Slow and steady
          • Apr 2008
          • 9476
          • League City, Texas
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #5
          I'll try to post a photo of it later tonight... The gap is HUGE... It has mostly peeled up from the middle... and gone out to the front and back edges in about a 12" wide path. I am thinking about using a piece of paper to sort of spread glue around and then caul / clamp it down...
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          • wardprobst
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2006
            • 681
            • Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
            • Craftsman 22811

            #6
            You could get a 12" drywall knife (float) and use that to work the glue into the crack. Use your air compressor to blow it into the areas you can't reach with the float. It'll work, I've done it on loose veneer. Don't blow air until you have your cauls ready, it'll cure the glue before you can clamp.
            DAMHIK,
            DP
            www.wardprobst.com

            Comment

            • ElRay
              Established Member
              • Jan 2003
              • 367
              • NoIL

              #7
              Is this: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=52914 the original thread?

              Ray
              "A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects."
              --- Robert A. Heinlein

              Comment

              • dbhost
                Slow and steady
                • Apr 2008
                • 9476
                • League City, Texas
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                Nope. That's the fence, But you can see under it the wing...

                I am starting to lean more toward just building a new one. I made a LOT of mistakes building this one, and want to change up some pretty big things...
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                Comment

                • wardprobst
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2006
                  • 681
                  • Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
                  • Craftsman 22811

                  #9
                  Probably best to redo, you can fix more than one thing.
                  Keep us posted,
                  DP
                  www.wardprobst.com

                  Comment

                  • dbhost
                    Slow and steady
                    • Apr 2008
                    • 9476
                    • League City, Texas
                    • Ryobi BT3100

                    #10
                    Will do. I think this one is going to end up being more of a learning experience for me!. I might just figure out how to get the hardboard down, and then start a new one... Working on some dust collection issues tonight for the router... Making a lower enclosure box out of an old cat litter tub... Quick and dirty sure, but testing out an idea. Might work, might end up cut up and in the landfill...
                    Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                    Comment

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