To joint, or not to joint

[Cochese]

Some of you know about my shop and it's size limitations. For those who don't, I'm about at the point of saturation. I don't have much more room for major tools, as I'm fighting for room as it is.

But what I do need is a reliable way to do some edge jointing. With my kitchen table project coming up, I feel the ability to this is vital to the success of this project and others like it. I don't have the room or the funds to add a floor-standing jointer, but I might be open to adding a benchtop model perhaps.

I'm also interested in alternatives. I have two packs of the Rockler fence shims, but I've been hesitant to try this method out due to an inability to accurately true the bit up to the fence. I don't have a reliable straight edge, but I might be addressing that deficit later today. But I again worry about trying to edge joint a 6' long 6" wide board perfectly on a 32" wide table. Using two boards with a bit has me worried about burning or tearout. And I really don't have good feelings about trying to do it on the small footprint of the 21829 on a hill.

I'm aware there's a Wood Whisperer episode dedicated to jointer alternatives, but I haven't been able to watch it yet. For small stuff, I'm thinking about making a planer sled, but I'm unsure if I can dial down the snipe on this particular machine.

Any thoughts on the matter would be helpful.

[twistsol]

I have an 8' straight edge clamp and use that with a router and a flush trim bit to straighten the edge. I add a few squares of 1/4" hardboard between the piece to be straightened and the clamp to ensure the the bit only cuts wood and not the clamp. I flip it so the piece to be jointed is on top and use the handheld router from above.

An 8' clamp is about $99-129 if you buy it locally at Rockler or Woodcraft. If you order it online, shipping is a killer.

[pelligrini]

A 4' or longer level makes for a pretty good straight edge.

There are ways to do it on a table saw or router table. I never really tried out those methods though.

I picked up a smallish 6" jointer a while back. I would like something bigger, but even at 42" long it challenges my space. I researched benchtop models, but they just didn't seem like a practical purchase.

If I have one or two boards to do I'll just use a handplane now, especially if they're fairly short. If it's not longer then my bench I'll lay them flat over another flat board and just shoot the edge. The short ones are easy. With a long boards I'll clamp them on edge and use one of my jointer planes with my jointer fence. I still have problems jointing them freehand (no fence), but I'm getting better.

[toolguy1000]

i have used this method for a project that wasn't easily adaptable to my jointer:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/01/28/wb/

once set up properly, with a descent blade, it worked very, very well.

[Cochese]

I picked up the 50" clamp from Peachtree today to see if that helps. Making something that attaches or abuts the straight edge...how do you know if it's truly straight? That's the thing. Maybe next trip I can grab the router or saw plate that goes with it, or perhaps I can fab my own, but I dunno.

If I got a jointer I'd try to have it flip vertical so I could fit it in there.

I just wish there wasn't such a harsh jump from the 50" to the 96". $33 for 50" and $120 for 8'. Ridiculous. I guess it's by demand, 8' is what you need most for full sheet rip cuts. I'll have to make due with doing crosscuts first.

I bought a straightedge that connects in the middle, but there's too much flex.

[atgcpaul]

I made something like this in 2 sizes. One will rip straight edges up to 6' and the other will work up to 9'. I'm going on the assumption that the edge of a sheet of MDF is straight.

If you saw my chest of drawers a couple of monts ago, I used the shorter jig to straight line rip one edge of each board before glueup. No gaps between the boards.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/tsjointjig.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/tsjointjig.html

[atgcpaul]

I made something like this in 2 sizes. One will rip straight edges up to 6' and the other will work up to 9'. I'm going on the assumption that the edge of a sheet of MDF is straight. First I thickness plane to finished size, line up one edge for rippin on the jig, rip, remove jig, flip board and rip other edge parallel to the first, flip board again and final rip board to final width on the first rip side.

If you saw my chest of drawers a couple of monts ago, I used the shorter jig to straight line rip each board before glueup. No gaps between the boards.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/tsjointjig.html

[Uncle Hook]

Check out this thread, especially the sub tread entitled "Edge jointing large stock with a router".

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...light=sawboard

Rockler has a nice bit on sale which is well suited to the task.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...ckler%20Outlet

Then get yourself some MDF with a nice clean factory edge and make your self a sawboard like guide for your router.

When working with larger stock I find it often makes sense to bring the tool to the stock. When working with smaller stock it usually makes sense to bring the stock to the tool.

[Cochese]

I ran into an interesting situation when I tried to joint on the router table. I put in a shim on the outfeed side, and lined it up with a large top-bearing flush bit. When I run the piece through, it's not straight. I get what looks like the NE corner of Georgia at the leading corner. How can I fix this?

I might try the table saw method, but I'm working with 1.625" material.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I ran into an interesting situation when I tried to joint on the router table. I put in a shim on the outfeed side, and lined it up with a large top-bearing flush bit. When I run the piece through, it's not straight. I get what looks like the NE corner of Georgia at the leading corner. How can I fix this?

If your router table has a miter slot on it, skip the bearing/fence alignment, and use a sled. If you're careful to attach a dead-straight miter bar, you can make one as long and wide as you can safely handle on your table. I used one like this for small panel jointing before buying my benchtop jointer (as demonstrated by LOML):

[cabinetman]

Going from a bench top jointer to a floor model (larger) may not solve some problems. There's always lumber that's very heavy, or very long. For a one man procedure, a table saw could be better.

I use a plywood strip, with one good edge. That plywood is attached to the subject lumber and the edge runs against the fence. There are several ways to attach a piece of plywood to lumber.

An easy to make jointer setup for a router table is to use a strip of plywood with one good edge. Laminate the edge with 1/16" mica. Cut a "U" shaped hole on the edge, centered on the length. This gets positioned at the router bit location. For bits, I use a straight faced bit, and it could be any diameter, but ¼" will work.

On the outfeed side of the hole laminate another piece of 1/16" mica. Apply a slight chamfer on the leading edge at the hole so passing lumber doesn't catch. The fence gets set up with the bit protruding 1/16" from the infeed edge. This setup will joint 1/16" at a time. You can, make the table as long as you want, and likewise for the fence.
.

[Cochese]

I ended up making a mini sled and I think it turned out well. We'll see come assembly time.