Best value in bandsaw blades?

[Chris_B]

I am (finally!) getting a shiny new Rikon 10-325 RealSoonNow(tm), and would like to equip it with an appropriate selection of good blades. Until now my modest projects have avoided curves and re-sawing was obviously a non-starter. Presumably this will change with my new toy.

After perusing a bunch of threads, three brands keep popping-up:

• Iturra
• Timber Wolf
• Wood Slicer

Even after reading Lonnie Bird's book, to a novice like me these all seem very similar (though obviously *way* ahead of the stock blade). I'd value some practical perspective from those of you with more experience. A set of blades represents a significant fraction of the cost of the saw, and I would like to avoid dumb mistakes.

Basically a bandsaw n00b would appreciate any good suggestions.

[pelligrini]

I think Iturra makes the Timberwolf blades, I think... They usually have a special going that you get a blade free for purchasing so many. Can't remember the exact quantity.

Congratulations, I've been eyeballing one of those. I've got a POS 9" plastic Delta I'm storing for a friend. I think I'm going to make him take it back.

[poolhound]

I have blades from Iturra and am very happy. If you plane to resaw the 3/4" Blade Runner is one of the best. Call and ask Lou for a recomendation and he will be happy to help and dont forget to ask for his catalogue which is a bandsaw book like none other...

[chopnhack]

That looks like one serious saw, congrats

[toolguy1000]

good luck with the new saw. from everything i've read, it seems to be a great piece of equipment. i'm fairly certain iturra does not make timberwolf blades as they are not in the 2010 catalog. he does, however, have a wealth of knowledge about all things bandsaw related. in the few months i have been dealing with him, he has yet to stear me wrong and hasn't tried to sell me anything that won't make my saw work better. get him to weld you a lennox and you won't be sorry. he hasn't got a website but can be reached here:

http://www.manta.com/c/mmc3znn/iturra-design

[pelligrini]

i'm fairly certain iturra does not make timberwolf blades as they are not in the 2010 catalog. he does, however, have a wealth of knowledge about all things bandsaw related.

Correct, not sure why I was thinking that. Suffolk Machinery makes the timberwolf.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/spec...r_Bandsaws.asp

[Rich P]

I personally prefer Iturra blades although this is opinion is based solely on his version of the Wood Slicer. As I understand it, Louis sells the same blade as the Wood Slicer for a fair bit less. Perhaps the best thing about buying from him is you get a copy of his "catalog" which in addition to having lots of goodies for sale is a treasure trove of info about band saws. Enjoy your new toy.

[LarryG]

Erik, what you may have been thinking is ... Highland Woodworking in Atlanta sells a highly-respected resaw blade known as the WoodSlicer. Iturra sells a highly-respected resaw blade known as the BladeRunner, for about 30% less than the WoodSlicer. It's an open secret that the two blades are identical apart from their names and prices.

Or it may have been ... Lee Valley sells blades under the Viking name that are said to be made from the same made-in-Sweden blade stock as the Timberwolfs from Suffolk.

[SARGE..g-47]

Suffolk imports the coiled rolls of blades from Sweden.. then welds to lenght at their site as orders come in. P A Wood in PA. is a subsidary of Suffold and welds and packages at their site for Woodcraft... etc.. etc.. Suffolks blades do not come packaged direct.

I personally use a 3/4" Lennox bi-metal on my 18" BS for re-saw. Much cheaper than carbide (1/4 the price) as they will last about 5-6 times longer than the Woodslicer I used to use at basically the same price. But... the bi-metal might be a challenge for your 14" saw's springs depending as bi-metal does require more tension and carbide even more.

I use HIghland Woodworking's standard carbon 1/4" 6 TPI blade on my 14" for cutting curvers. Cheap and the longest lasting carbon blade I have found. I've been using them for around 12 years. I wouldn't get caught up thinking you need a host of blades if I were you. A 3 TPI for re-saw and a 6 TPI for curves is all I have used for over 30 years.

Those are quite sufficient for most shop needs IMO. I also wouldn't get caught up thinking you need an extremely wide blade for re-saw. A smaller 14" BS has smaller springs and the wider the blade the more they get taxed to tension them. I used a 1/2" Woodslicer for 15 years on a 14" BS before adding an 18" BS. And even though I could use 1 1/4" blades on it.. I simply use 3/4" as I don't like to tax springs nor push wheel limits as I don't find it necessary to get the job done.

Good luck...

[sweensdv]

+1 on Iturra Design, great company to deal with. Like you, when I first took delivery of my 10-325 I didn't have a clue as to what blades to go with. On Louis' advice, I started out with a Lenox Promaster I ¼" 6TPI hook tooth blade(LF14T6) and a Lenox Promaster I ½" 3TPI hook tooth blade(LF12T3). At the time I didn't know how much resawing I would be doing so I went with the ½" Promaster instead of the Bladerunner just to save a few dollars. I later purchased a Bladerunner blade but the ½" Promaster provided a good quality blade to practice resawing with.

Like table saw blades bandsaw blades also come in different tooth configurations. IMO, the hook tooth pattern makes for a very good general purpose blade but you might find that your requirements might be better suited to say a standard tooth design. Was that just enough info to confuse you even more?

[dbhost]

I don't know squat about Iturra blades. I have heard great things about Woodslicer for resawing, but not so much for curves etc...

I personally own Timberwolf blades, the Silicone Steel blades, which come from Suffolk Machinery. They usually have a buy 3 get 1 free deal, and are priced very reasonably depending on the length and others specifics of the blade you need...

FWIW, IF the Woodslicers work better for resawing than the Timberwolves, then the Woodslicers are some insanely great blades, because my Timberwolf blades work great for resawing. Just tension and lube the blade like Suffolk recommends and get to work.

[Uncle Cracker]

Another +1 for Iturra. His pricing is excellent, and he makes his blades from the same bandstock as the high-priced guys, plus, I think his welds are better (or at least they are QC'd better). Not only that, but Lou has forgot more about bandsaws than most folks will ever know, and if you're having a problem, he more than likely has the answer... Try to get one of his catalogs; they are like a bandsaw textbook.

[Chris_B]

Thank you for the comments!

That looks like one serious saw, congrats

Thank you. I've been eyeing one for almost 3 years. I am certain that many of you would put it to better use, but I am thankful for the opportunity to own one.

Was that just enough info to confuse you even more?

Almost :-)

Thank you guys for the input. I called Iturra and they will send me the latest catalog. Phil Thien sent me a PDF of Iturra's 2008 catalog, but I look forward to seeing the latest edition. If there is interest, I can create and host a PDF of the copy I receive (after checking with Iturra for permission).

From Sarge's comments it sounds like a couple of blades should keep me going for quite a while. I'll try not to go crazy.

Does anybody know the maximum useful tension on the Rikon 10-325?
In particular, can it handle a 1/2" bi-metal, or would I be better off with a 3/8" blade?

[Rich P]

Chris, IMHO get a smaller blade for curves and one of Louis' resaw blades and see how that goes for you. I've had his resaw blade on for so long I can't recall when I mounted a different one. Only problem with not changing blades to often is you forget the hand over hand folding technique. If you are new to band saws this is a must know that you can also use to impress your kids, in-laws, whatever. John White has a good video on this at FWW if you have access. Somebody probably has a U-Tube version as well.

BTW, if you need a better tension spring Louis is your go to guy.

[Bill in Buena Park]

Found this review on the 10-325 by Ken Massingale (a user here) on another forum.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f...t-report-8221/

Seems Ken liked the results of the Bladerunner II on his 10-325.