Hand plane maintenance

[jussi]

Been watching Chris Schwarz's video on handplanes and after he's done sharpening the iron he mentions oiling it up and putting it back in the plane. Anyone know what type of oil he's using? What type you use (if any)?

Also any recommendations on a good sharpening stone set? How high do you go to?

[LinuxRandal]

One of the oils uses is Camella (spelling), that is available through several woodworking stores. I have seen others use WD40, etc. (reference here: http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/pla.../rust/rust.htm)

I also started reading his book, and since I haven't found his comment in it, I googled him and : http://blog.lostartpress.com/2009/12...ll+Do+You.aspx


As for stones, I know both Norton and Kingstones are considered good. I have Norton, up to 8000. I believe Kingstones don't rate exactly the same, and they go further up the scale.

[dbhost]

On the iron & frog I have been using Hoppes gun & reel oil. Might not be the right thing, but it was on the bench, and well... you know how that goes... (I was cleaning / lubing my fishing reels just prior to honing my plane irons...)

[jackellis]

I used Johnson's paste wax. Apply, let dry, then wipe off.

Oil seems to be the wrong thing to use on a tool that makes contact with wood you'll want to finish later.

[pelligrini]

I've been using Boeshield T-9 on mine lately. It seems to hold up better than just paste wax I was using. There have been several times this winter when I found condensation in between my iron and chipbreaker.

I don't like oiling them either. I used to use a bit of 3in1, but it does attract and hold fine dust. I didn't like having oil around my woods either.

[Uncle Hook]

At the NJ woodworking show I attended a hand plane seminar by a man named Graham Blackburn. He has written several books and I was very impressed with the knowledge he imparted. His recommended applying a coat of Camellia oil after sharpening your plane blades.

There is an interesting thread on Camellia and other oils on the Woodnet forum.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=4747250&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

I am going to give mineral oil a try. I have heard from several other sources that it is a good rust preventative. Don't know if it will dry like Camellia oil.

[LarryG]

I used Johnson's paste wax. Apply, let dry, then wipe off.

Oil seems to be the wrong thing to use on a tool that makes contact with wood you'll want to finish later.

I too use Johnson's Paste Wax, have done so for years, with no issues.

The thought of using oil is indeed counterintuitive, but as LR mentions, Chris Schwarz says he has been using a variety of different oils for a long time and has never had a problem.

[cabinetman]

Some of us are more anal about our work getting contaminated. Personally I don't like picking up a tool that has some type of coating. What someone else uses is really of no concern to me. Whatever makes them happy.

My area is about as humid as anywhere, and I find just keeping a check on moisture will keep tools from rusting. There are many products other than oils and waxes that work just fine. Containing the tools in an area that can be controlled, like a cabinet will permit the use of a product like DampRid. It comes in a variety of sizes and is very effective. It's sold in grocery stores and home centers. For other smaller areas like trays or drawers, silica packets, and other dessicate products work very good.
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[jackellis]

My area is about as humid as anywhere, and I find just keeping a check on moisture will keep tools from rusting.

Cab, you're just too practical