I was just cutting some 3/4 red oak with my Ridgid ts3650 and miidway through the cut the saw bogged down the bladed slowed to a srtop and was making horrible squeeling sounds. I stoped the saw and made the belt as tight as I could get it. I got through one piece of wood then the next piece the same thing happened. Does this mean I need a new belt or is there another issue?
Darkside question?
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How's the blade? It could be dull, dirty, misaligned or all of the above. Are you using a splitter? There could also be belt issues, and issues with the stock itself if it's moist, reactive, or not flat/straight.Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth. -
I'd definitely check the blade and also that you're not hitting some hidden metal or whatever in the stock.
Also, the belt needs to be properly tensioned... and "tight as you can get it", could very well be too tight, causing undo stress on the motor shaft and bearings. While that may not be the immediate problem, over a period of time, it can cause damage to the motor.
CWSThink it Through Before You Do!Comment
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Is it possible the wood is binding on the blade? Sometimes, even with the splitter in place, the wood will pinch the blade with a death grip.
Next time it happens turn off the saw. Then start pulling the wood back towards you and if it binds on the blade and doesn't want to move, you have some reactive wood.Comment
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Are you checking which way the crown on the board is, if any at all, before you run the board through the saw ? Does the outlet that the saw is pluged into have enough power, and or, are you running a heavy enough extension cord ? Have you cleaned the pulleys ? Unplug the saw and remove the belt on the blade arbor pulley, spin the arbor by hand and make sure it spins freely, and without any grumbleing noise or play, you may also want to do this with the motor arbor. This also may be an opertunity to buy a Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belt if you haven't allready.Comment
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I believe the issue is with the belt tension. I raised the blade higher and was able to finish my cutting today. The motor moves freely up and down with no problems but it is always "bottom out" at top of the curved slot on the motor base spring plate. I will probably need to look up the manual for how to change this so it floats in the middle of the slotI love lamp.Comment
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+1 with the other posters.
But as CWS mentioned, never tighten a belt 'too tight'. Later down the way, you're sure to have problems with the bearings and/or the belt wearing out too quickly.Comment
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I think your motor is sealed but I used to use a saw with an open motor. Over time the air slots in the stator would fill up with saw dust which cut power and eventually stopped the motor. Blowing it out made it work again. It might be worth opening up the motor if it keeps acting odd.
JimComment
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I believe the issue is with the belt tension. I raised the blade higher and was able to finish my cutting today. The motor moves freely up and down with no problems but it is always "bottom out" at top of the curved slot on the motor base spring plate. I will probably need to look up the manual for how to change this so it floats in the middle of the slotComment
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It sounds like the motor is mounted on the plate inncorrectly, too far forward or back. Is it the original V*belt thats on the saw ? Hopefully it hasn't been replaced with an automotive belt. Electric motor belts have a different bevel. Another nice thing about the Fenner Drives PowerTwist link belts is that you can make the belt longer or shorter.
The initial adjustments of the motor mount (see the manual) just establishes where the motor sits on it's pivoting mount. So you may be right that it is bottoming out at one end of it's travel.
The weight of the motor determines the tension.
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