jointer problem/question

[Don Pablo]

I got a Ridgid 6" jointer recently, have triple checked it for correct alignment, watched videos and read up on correct technique, etc. Here's my problem..when I edge joint a board that is bowed out, the left end (feeding right to left) of the board keeps getting narrower, and the bow never goes away. I'm careful to keep pressure on the outfeed side, etc. Doing something wrong. New at this woodworking stuff and would appreciate some help.

Thanks

[cabinetman]

The outfeed height should be level with the depth of cut.The infeed height is what you want to take off. I do it by keeping steady pressure on the infeed side, and when half or more of the board is jointed, the pressure is shifted to the outfeed table.
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[phrog]

A "bow" is a deviation from a lengthwise flatness of a board. I'm not sure I understand how edge-jointing could remove this. Perhaps, I'm not visualizing your problem correctly.

[tommyt654]

I got a Ridgid 6" jointer recently, have triple checked it for correct alignment, watched videos and read up on correct technique, etc. Here's my problem..when I edge joint a board that is bowed out, the left end (feeding right to left) of the board keeps getting narrower, and the bow never goes away. I'm careful to keep pressure on the outfeed side, etc. Doing something wrong. New at this woodworking stuff and would appreciate some help.

Thanks

You need to make a cut on your tablesaw and then joint to get the bow I believe you are talking about out, A jointer is not designed to straighten a curved board only to flatten a face joint of a straight board.

[LCHIEN]

If the bow is too long then you may not be able to flatten it.
If I feed a board repetitively on face jointing it will eventually become wedge shaped even as its face is flattened. I'm not sure how to adjust that out - I just just flipt the board to alternate feeding directions to prevent it. Ultimately I take it to the thickness planer to make it uniform thickness- there's no way to guarantee uniform thickness on the jointer.

If you are edge jointing then a pass on the table saw ripping will make it uniformly wide.

[herb fellows]

You might want a quick look at this article about flattening boards:

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/eZine/Public/QA.aspx

[cabinetman]

The OP says "edge jointing"...which makes the board get narrower.
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[LarryG]

First of all, Richard (phrog) is correct. Technically, a bow is warpage along the length of a board's face. Warpage along the length of an edge is called a crook. [/Trivia]

Tommy has it right, and Loring too ... if there's very much crook at all, the jointer can easily make matters worse. Start with a rip cut on the table saw to make the board's edge straight, then make it REALLY straight using the jointer.

That said, if you're new to using a jointer, it can be difficult to master for a machine that is so simple in concept and in operation. Don't feel badly if you struggle at first, because there is a learning curve. I frequently liken making a good pass on a jointer to making a good golf swing: there are multiple things that have to go exactly right all at the same time, but you have to relax and not think about any of them too much or you'll screw it up.

[toolguy1000]

Wood magazine features an article last year about the proper use of both jointers and planers. it spoke to exactly the issue the OP was referring.

[Jes Pidlin]

Assuming everything is properly set up on the jointer, you can usually straighten a crook by switching the feed direction of the board. After the first couple of passes, swap ends and feed from the opposite end. Do this "reversal feeding" for a couple of passes and the crook will be gone.