I would like to get into carving, and I am looking for a good beginners chisel set. Im not really sure what brands are good, and what is bad. I have read that longer chisels are easier to work with due to the leverage... I have the book, "Shaping Wood", and would like to try some of the carvings in the book to play around with. Also, im not really sure how to sharpen curved chisels... Any help or guidance would be great!
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I got into carving long before the internet and all the free advice and information. I had done some carving as a kid and only used a pocket knife. In the early 70's, I picked up a cheap carving set at a flea market. Figured out how to sharpen with common type abrasives.
As a start into carving you might consider an inexpensive set just to see if you're going to like carving. I will make a suggestion to do it that way so you don't have a lot of money tied up with tools that you may never use. HF's latest flier has a special on this set. It's a cheap set that will give you a taste without setting you back.
The average price for a medium quality could be around $8-$10 for each piece. Top quality tools could be in the $30 or more each. If you take to carving and enjoy it, then you'll have a better idea of which tools you use the most and can make a decision when buying a higher quality tool.
The short tools (stubby) (palm) fit the hand well as they have an enlarged handle. The longer tools don't necessarily give better leverage. It's all in how the tool is used and handled. There's a wide variety of tool design in length and handle shapes.
Carving tools are IMO paring tools. They should be controlled as much as possible. Using two hands to carve and guide allow a controlled cut. Taking very thin passes produce the best results. Having ways to secure the workpiece allows full use of both hands.
As for sharpening, I use diamond hones, files, silicon carbide sandpaper, and a variety of stones, some of which have shapes that work great with gouges. Starting with a sharp tool and maintaining the edge is easier than waiting until it needs sharpening. The internet has established terminology like "scary sharp". Well, the tool is scary when it is dull and you have to work it too much. Sharp is sharp. There's nothing scary about it. It's supposed to be sharp.
I treat my edged tools the same way. The sharper they are the better they work. I know when an edge is sharp when it will slice a piece of paper on a down stroke without tearing or dragging. Nothing scary about that. That's what I call cool.
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Great brands are Pfeil (Swiss -available at Woodcraft), Stubai (Austrian), Two Cherries (German), Henry Taylor (English), Marples (English), and Ashley Iles (English). Most of the professional carvers like the first three better because they think the English tools are "softer." I bought a very cheap set at Harbor Freight because I didn't want to learn to sharpen on an expensive set. In fact, it's the set that Cabinetman linked you to. The first three brands will set you back about $25 - $50 per tool. That is why I wanted to learn to sharpen on a cheap set. Note however that you will never get a really great edge on these cheap tools (nor the carving results) but, at least, you can learn how to hold the tools for sharpening, etc. See Leonard Lee's book, The Complete Guide to Sharpening (Chapter 9- Carving Tools), to learn how to sharpen these tools as well as most everything else in your shop. Also, be aware that the really good tools do not come with a sharp edge - you have to hone them to your own preferences.
I'm not sure about the long handles - the idea is to cut, not lever the wood out, except in chip carving. I think that is what Cab'man was saying.
Hope that helps.
Richard
One other thing: always buy out-cannel (bevel on the outside) tools for carving. In-cannel (bevel on the inside) is used by pattern-makers for cutting straight lines.
After reading your question again, I realized I didn't answer it. Buck Bros. used to make cheaper carving tools, as did Miller's Falls. You might find some of these (used) on eBay. There are several others but the names are escaping me right now.RichardComment
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I don't do much carving. But, I like this set, that I bought a couple of years ago. They came well sharpened. A little light honing was all that it took.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7756
SteveI would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong. Bertrand RussellComment
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Grizzly also has this set which looks to be a more expensive version of the H7756 set mentioned above. The selection of carving tools seems similar. I have wondered whether the quality of the deluxe set is substantially better. A few years ago, Lee Valley Tools had offered a similar set and described them as a good value.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-p...isel-Set/H2930
Aside from quality, one consideration in selecting carving tools is the type of carving to be done. The sets from Grizzly have larger blades in comparison to the set from harbor freight.
Lee valley and Woodcraft are other sources worth looking at.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/index....=2&cat=1%2c130
http://www.woodcraft.com/Category/1001053/Carving.aspx
Here are some other helpful links:
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/reviews/carving.shtml
http://www.woodcentral.com/links/carving.shtml
http://www.chippingaway.com/woodcarv...KindForYou.htmComment
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I'm a big fan of HF in general, but their carving chisels are worst than worthless. They will not take or hold a sharp edge and you will just end up frustrated.
If you must save money, try one of the Japanese style carving sets - wooden oval handles and sharp, short blades.
If you can possibly afford it, get a good beginners set such as the Woodcraft Swiss tools. They will last a lifetime and come sharpened. Using sharp tools will help you know when your tools are sharp - and when they aren't.
All you need to sharpen carving tools is a few sheets of carbide sand paper from the auto store and a piece of glass. You will get a better edge with this system than most other sharpening systems. Be sure to get at least 4000 grit sandpaper if you want a mirror finish. A strop is also helpful.Last edited by woodturner; 11-24-2009, 08:45 PM.--------------------------------------------------
Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by nightComment
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Last time I bought the Swiss/Pfeil tools, they came with a very good edge. [Edit: apparently Cherry tools are not sharpened] Taylor come sharpened, but not really sharp enough, in my opinion.
So I guess my point is that it depends on the brand. For the new carver, I suggest Swiss tools because they do come sharpened. If the new carver doesn't use a properly sharpened tool, they may never realize their tools aren't really sharp. It's one thing for my students in a class, where I can help them learn to sharpen, but something else if they are learning from a book or video.Last edited by woodturner; 11-25-2009, 08:50 PM.--------------------------------------------------
Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by nightComment
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RichardComment
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It's been a while since I bought that brand, thought they came sharpened but sounds like they do not, or at least not now, anyway. Sharp is definitely relative, but I am a firm believer in very, very sharp carving tools.
People have various tests for sharpness, but one I like is to stand the tool on your thumb nail. A really, really sharp tool will stand there, a not quite sharp enough tool will slide off. I think it is safer than shaving an arm, etc. Better yet, pair some pine end grain. If the cut is not shiny, the tool is not sharp enough, in my opinion.--------------------------------------------------
Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by nightComment
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Thanks for the replys guys. I have done some looking at the links provided, and I guess I am still unsure what is necessary. What I mean is, there are so many different angles and curves of chisels. Does a set really provide what is necessary? Maybe I am overthinking things for begining carving... I will limit myself to a max of 200 dollars for a set within the next few months...Comment
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If you check what's included in a "starter" set, the variety should provide a general selection. The variables are different sizes of the same tool, or a slightly different shape. IMO, $200 is pretty hefty for a "starter" set. My suggestion is to pick up an inexpensive set. Learn how to dress the edges, find out what the individual tools in the set do, and then if you want to progress, you'll be better educated.
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What kind of carving do you want to do? Furniture carving? Whittling? Little dogs? ;-)
The choice of a first set will depend on what you want to carve. Carving chisels come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Gouges are characterized by sweep and size. The sweep is the radius, and the size is the width - so a narrower chisel of the same sweep can be substituted for a wider chisel.
For furniture carving, I recommend this set:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...diate-Set.aspx
A little over your budget, though (didn't use to be, sigh)
If you do want to do more small whittling type carving, though, a less expensive set will be adequate:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...12-Pieces.aspx
They also have 6 piece sets if you prefer.
Tell us a bit more about what you want to carve and how you plan to learn (from a book, class, etc) and I can offer more specific advice.--------------------------------------------------
Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by nightComment
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With your experience, posting some samples of your carving may be inspirational to those thinking about trying.
The pictures shown below were done with a "cheap set" like this set. A "starter set" IMO is just that. An inexpensive set of tools with a good variety at an affordable price. I think the OP had a $200 budget, and to me that sounds like a lot to spend to try out carving. At least from using these tools a skill level can be achieved and decisions can be made to choose other tools.
I would also recommend buying a carving glove like this. With sharp tools, slips can be vicious. Another "starter tip" is to arrange to have the workpiece "held" while working on it. That will allow the use of both hands freely.
For just learning and experimenting I recommend trying "relief carving". The carvings below were done in just plain clear 1x12 pine. They are easy to lay out, just take your subject from any source, like magazines for example, and use carbon paper and transfer the image. Then mark the highest points and start paring into the image. Keep marking the different high spots as you go at the drawing. It's just visualizing the depth as you go.
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