Tool Wiring Help

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  • jussi
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 2162

    #1

    Tool Wiring Help

    I picked up a Delta Drum Sander for a pretty good price. Partly because one of the guy's employees took the switch apart and didn't know how to put it back together. I have limited electrical experience so any help here would be appreciated. I took some pics and made a diagram below.

    1. Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for a Delta 31-250 Type 2 Drum Sander. I found a parts list but it doesn't say anything about wiring.

    2. Where do all the loose wires go??

    3. How do the connectors attach to one another? Are they simply just crimped on. Do I need a special tool or will a pliers do?

    4. Is that a transistor in the switch box? Where does that hook on to

    Thanks.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by jussi; 11-02-2009, 10:00 AM.
    I reject your reality and substitute my own.
  • justaguy
    Established Member
    • Jun 2006
    • 153
    • Chesapeake VA

    #2
    1. You can find the manual at dewaltservicenet.com
    2. look for a wiring diagarm in the manual
    3. The connectors that I can make out in the picutres are spade connectors. There is a male and a female connector the switch has 4 male connections the wires have the female connections.
    4. I cannot make out the part number in the picture look it up and google it. Trnasistors typeically have the connections that item appears to be most likely a voltage regulator or a diode
    Last edited by justaguy; 11-02-2009, 12:55 PM.

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Super Moderator
      • Dec 2002
      • 21992
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      the bad news is the answer to the question, "why did he take it apart?" Usually people don't disassemble stuff that's working...
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • jussi
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 2162

        #4
        Originally posted by LCHIEN
        the bad news is the answer to the question, "why did he take it apart?" Usually people don't disassemble stuff that's working...
        Well he said his employee didn't realize the power was shut off to the outlet he was using and thought there was something wrong with the switch. It was risky buy (because obviously could have been totally bs) but everything looked near new on the machine and for the price I thought I'd take a gamble.

        Do the connectors just snap into place or do they need to be crimped on. I couldn't find the wiring diagram in the manual. It's a Delta 31-250 type 2 Drum Sander. I had a service center fax me a copy but alot of it is illegible. I may have to make the 45 min drive to service center myself.
        I reject your reality and substitute my own.

        Comment

        • cgallery
          Veteran Member
          • Sep 2004
          • 4503
          • Milwaukee, WI
          • BT3K

          #5
          I looked at the manuals they have online and didn't see any help for wiring.

          You could always call Delta and ask them if they have any additional help for someone in your predicament.

          Or, you could post messages here and at other woodworking forums and ask if someone that has the same model would be willing to take their unit apart and snap a few pics and provide some wiring instructions.

          Comment

          • master53yoda
            Established Member
            • Oct 2008
            • 456
            • Spokane Washington
            • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

            #6
            the site for the manual is below.

            http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/docu...3-651-0017.pdf

            it doesn't have wiring diagrams in it. do not guess at the connections on the speed control if connected incorrectly could let the smoke out of it and then you buy a new one. I would take it to the service center if I were you . they can probably reconnect it in about 15 minutes and you are on your way.


            good luck.
            Art

            If you don't want to know, Don't ask

            If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

            Comment

            • Uncle Cracker
              The Full Monte
              • May 2007
              • 7091
              • Sunshine State
              • BT3000

              #7
              Originally posted by LCHIEN
              the bad news is the answer to the question, "why did he take it apart?" Usually people don't disassemble stuff that's working...
              Obviously, you have never met my son... Any time I have ever needed something demolished, I have just given it to him and said "Fix it...".

              Comment

              • LCHIEN
                Super Moderator
                • Dec 2002
                • 21992
                • Katy, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 vintage 1999

                #8
                really can't tell from the connector details how they are supposed to connect.
                Need a closup of the terminals on the wire and the board.
                Also most terminals can't reliably be put on with pliers. Reqire special crimpers.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment

                • jussi
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jan 2007
                  • 2162

                  #9
                  I got a better copy of the wiring diagram and wired it together but still didn't work. I hooked up the vac directly to the induction motor and it worked fine so I think the switch was broken. But I still can't get the the DC Sear motor (feeder) to work. Here's the diagram. Looks like it was hand drawn. I don't have a scanner so I replicated as best I could. I don't why there are blue lines on the diagram as there aren't any at all on the machine. I just took that to mean the red ones as they're the only ones unaccounted for.

                  Hopefully the controller isn't fried. Those things can be costly.

                  I don't have that transistor thingy hooked up. Could that be it?
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by jussi; 11-02-2009, 03:18 PM.
                  I reject your reality and substitute my own.

                  Comment

                  • JR
                    The Full Monte
                    • Feb 2004
                    • 5636
                    • Eugene, OR
                    • BT3000

                    #10
                    It's a problem that's hard to solve with those pics, Jussi!

                    It does sound like a bad switch. You can verify that using a volt-ohm meter. Remove the wires from the switch. Set the VOM to ohms. Connect the terminals to one side of the switch. When you operate the switch there should be infinite ohms on one position and zero ohms in the other position. Same for the other side of the switch.

                    That red lead has a terminal with a hole in it. That looks like it should get screwed down somewhere. Maybe on your un-identified diode?

                    JR
                    JR

                    Comment

                    • Charlie
                      Banned
                      • Jul 2009
                      • 210

                      #11
                      Deleted by me.
                      Last edited by Charlie; 11-12-2009, 02:10 PM.

                      Comment

                      • Daryl
                        Senior Member
                        • May 2004
                        • 831
                        • .

                        #12
                        The device you think is a transistor is likely a scr, silicone controlled rectifier or a triac.
                        I think most of the speed controls are pretty generic, you may search online for one and find one that matches yours.
                        Sometimes the old man passed out and left the am radio on so I got to hear the oldie songs and current event kind of things

                        Comment

                        • mpc
                          Veteran Member
                          • Feb 2005
                          • 1008
                          • Cypress, CA, USA.
                          • BT3000 orig 13amp model

                          #13
                          A few observations/questions:

                          1: the schematic shows the motor speed controller board connected straight to the AC power cord, prior to the main on/off switch (the red wires). That means the drive belt is always running? Or does the potentiometer (part you turn to adjust the belt speed) have a separate "click" on/off switch of its own?

                          2: Looking at your pic of the motor speed controller board I see what looks like damaged phenolic at the top of the board - right above the potentiometer. It looks like somebody took nippers (wire cutters) and chomped some parts free? Also, the black object, probably a diode (label "D1" on the board it looks like), at the top of the picture looks like one end has been busted off completely.

                          3: There appears to be a bare wire at about 4 o'clock on the motor speed controller board with only one end actually connected; the other end looks cut off. True? What does the text say on the circuit board? Try for a clearer picture. Also post a pic of the backside (solder side) of the board.

                          Any chance the "mystery" part pop-riveted to the chassis lines up with the damaged phenolic areas? I can't tell from your pics where that mystery part is relative to where the motor controller board mounts.

                          mpc

                          Comment

                          • jussi
                            Veteran Member
                            • Jan 2007
                            • 2162

                            #14
                            1. You can turn the pot all the way down to turn off the motor to the feeder. In the instructions I believe it says turn it down till you hear a click.

                            2. I'll have to double check but I think that's just saw dust.

                            3. I didn't notice that and will also check on it tomorrow.

                            I'll take better pics tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
                            I reject your reality and substitute my own.

                            Comment

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