Table saw, Ridgid or BT3100

[yuri]

I found couple used tables saw to buy and need to get some advises and opinions on what to buy.
First one is legendary BT3100 with some extras and practicaly new, $250
And another one is Ridgid, $225. Do not know model number but check attached image for what it is.

[dbhost]

I absolutely LOVE my BT3100. But from time to time I wish I had a cast iron topped saw. Honestly I wish the BT3100 series saw would be reintroduced with a couple of mods, including a standard depth cast iron top system, keep the SMT, replace the accessory table with a proper router wing, and keep it all cast iron... Make the extra depth all on the front side for better crosscutting capacity... I dunno maybe I am talking out of my ear...

[Knottscott]

Apples to oranges comparison really. I prefer the mass, table surface area, and quiet induction motor of the Ridgid, but it should really boil down to your preferences. Both are going to do the job well once aligned and equipped with a good blade.

[Sawatzky]

I went from the BT3100 to the Ridgid TS3650, which is a more recent model of the Ridgid in the picture. Pretty much the same saw exepct mine has cast iron wings and it looks like that one has stamped steel. I am very happy with the Ridgid and wish i would have gotten it first. T he top is so much bigger than the Ryobi, and the whole saw is sturdier and heavier. If it were me, I would get the Ridgid.

[JSUPreston]

I personally prefer a heavier saw, but mine doesn't get moved around a lot. So, from that standpoint, I'd get the Ridgid. However, I don't think you could really make a bad decision with either saw. The question is which one suits your preferences as style more.

[toolguy1000]

the pictured saw is a ridgid 2412. differences between it and a 3650/60 are: 2412 is a 1.5hp 110v only motor, not dual voltage, 24" vs. 36" rip capacity, no included herc-u-lift, stamped steel extension wings instead of webbed cast iron and no incorporated blade alignment mechanism as was available on the 2424, 3612, 3650 and 3660.

i'd still take it over a 3100. it is a ridgid made by emerson saw and is guaranteed for life, even to subsequent owners. it's motor, and i think even the whole saw, was/were made in usa. i have a 2412 and it hasn't failed me yet. 6/4 oak rips have been no problem. offer seller $200, get a herc-u-lift through craig or ebay and enjoy a really great tool. note, the pictured ridgid seems to be missing it's blade guard.

[yuri]

Guys,

thanks clear and exhaustive explanations, and especially toolguy, now I know what rigid model is in picture. After additional reading I am leaning to rigid TS.
I am trying to find something on craigslist. Was not buying too much there before. I try to inquire more details and to my surprise most of the folks are not responsive at all. Looks like they made ads just for "fun", not really interest in anything.

[Knottscott]

A thought...since that Ridgid is a left tilt saw, it's very probable that you can slide the fence rails over to the right for additional right side rip capacity...you shouldn't ever need any left side capacity.

[yuri]

A thought...since that Ridgid is a left tilt saw, it's very probable that you can slide the fence rails over to the right for additional right side rip capacity...you shouldn't ever need any left side capacity.

I am not too experienced. What is that stuff about left/right tilt?

[Bill in Buena Park]

Yuri,
Its about how the blade tilts when performing a bevel cut. Ideally you want greater stock capacity on the table (between the rip fence and the blade) to the right of the blade if it's left-tilting, or opposite for right tilt. This is because you theoretically have better control of the "keeper" part of your workpiece, can possibly reduce burning and possibility of kickback during the cut.