Not-too-pricey fine blade for compound miter saw?

[tjr]

I bought the Hitachi C10FCH2 CMS a few months ago. The included 24T Hitachi blade works well for chopping treated lumber and such but not so hot for trim. Any thoughts on a relatively inexpensive 10" blade that'll do nice smooth cuts?

Also, should I make some sort of zero clearance bottom plate?

[dbhost]

Never tried a ZCTP on a CMS, mostly due to the angles. So I wouldn't, and if you are running a good blade, you shouldn't need to.

I use a Freud Diablo D1080X 80T crosscutting / finish blade from the BORG, which runs for $49.99 LINK. This is in my B&D Firestorm CMS and makes that cheap miter saw work like a MUCH more expensive saw...

I am not sure what a more expensive blade buys you. This thing is quiet, cuts super clean, never a burn mark, and the only splinters so far have been from stupid operator. I know this is Freud's cheapo line, but it sure works nice...

[just started]

+1 on the Diablo 80T. I have one on my CMS and also have another that I use on my TS and RAS. If this is what they consider a cheapo I can't wait to see what they call a premium blade - it must sand and finish the wood for you too.

[LinuxRandal]

I have a cheap GMC miter saw, (used up a gift certificate bought on closeout) that I tuned up and put on a Freud LU85R010 (junk store find). The Diablo mentioned, is the contracter version of that, and I would have no problems with that. My father now has/uses and old Craftsman saw, that I dumpster dived for. I gave him the original GMC blade (40 tooth) and he put a zero clearance insert on the saw. He made two, one for 90° angle, and one for the 45° degree angle (when he has a bunch). Anything else planned, and he switches to the original.

[Knottscott]

There are currently two Freud LU85R010's on Ebay for $55 shipped. That may be a bit more than you're looking to spend, but it's a nice deal on a terrific blade. Deal 1 Deal 2

Holbren has the Oshlun line at very good prices. They're surprisingly well made at this price point... 80T for $30 shipped with "BT310" code.

[BrazosJake]

The original 36T on my Makita worked quite well. When that got dull, Amazon had a special on Hitachi blades, dunno which one I bought, but it's been good.

[cwsmith]

I'm using a Ridgid 50T on both my RAS and my CMS. They're about $40. While I'm quite sure there are better blades, I find this particular blade makes a pretty decent cut for the price. The blade is made in Italy, and I've read that someone thought it was made by Freud, but I personally don't know.

CWS

[Sawatzky]

I use a Hitachi 72 tooth blade and it works great. I bought two of them so I have one for fine crosscusts on the table saw. I think I paid $40.00 at Lowes.

[poolhound]

I 2nd Oshlun as a good value blade. I have the 40T in mine as a good GP blade. If you want finer cuts then the 80T that Scott mentions should serve you well.

I did make up a ZCTP for my CMS (DeWalt) although I rarely do compound cuts. It does help with regular straight and angled cuts.

[Mr__Bill]

Here is an interesting site with info on saw blades

It's my understanding that for a miter saw you want a 0° Hook Angle and 60 or more teeth. You also want a full kerf blade to minimize distortion.

I have a Freud LU85 that I use for fine work and I get the cheep 60 tooth (or their about) blade from HF for cutting laminate flooring. I leave the blade that came with the saw for general use. The Freud blade was expensive but it makes a very clean cut.

I have found that with saw blades price does count but not all blades are priced right. Blades seem to be priced as, cheap, inexpensive, moderate, expensive and good lord the thing must be gold plated. The trick is to decide how much you are willing to pay and find the best in that group. Relatively inexpensive may be different for me than for you. You may wish to put in a price range. Remember too, the price of a saw blade is not just what you pay for it, but also the time energy and frustration spent cleaning up after it.

Bill, on the Sunny and Cool Oregon Coast

[tjr]

Thanks, all, for the good advice. I'm tempted to get the Oshlun and save a few bucks, altho if I could get the Freud LU85 for $42.50 on Ebay's best offer like the last guy did, it's tempting.

Was kinda hoping that someone would mention something in the $20-25 range given that I only spent $70-80ish on the saw, not particularly realistic.

Perhaps a better way to think about it is that the blade is nearly as important as the saw. From reading some reviews, the recommended blades last long enough that they're not really disposable items, they're more long-term investments.

Another thought is that if I ever get round to cleaning out my workshop enough to be able to line up and use my table saw, either of these would make a nice crosscutting blade for that machine too. Anyhoo, project I need to do now is some oak box valances that need to be done by Labor Day so I guess I better order something pretty soon.

[Mr__Bill]

Another thought is that if I ever get round to cleaning out my workshop enough to be able to line up and use my table saw, either of these would make a nice crosscutting blade for that machine too

Not really, the best blade for the miter saw with 0° Hook Angle pushes the work down and against the fence. On a table saw it would push the work up and back. Not the thing you need to have happen.

While the saw is important, the blade is by far the most important part of a saw, and you are right, is should not be considered a disposable. The real inexpensive blades are, in my experience, not as well balanced, not as sharp or as finely sharpened and not made specifically for the job.

On the other hand, you can always get your current blade sharpened.

Bill

[sweensdv]

............................................
Perhaps a better way to think about it is that the blade is nearly as important as the saw. From reading some reviews, the recommended blades last long enough that they're not really disposable items, they're more long-term investments.

In the long run a cheap inexpensive blade will end up costing you more money than buying a top quality blade now. Sure you'll pay less up front but very quickly the cut quality on the cheap blade will go downhill and you will be forced into either getting the blade sharpened or replacing it. Both choices will end up costing you more money. Very shortly you'll have spent more on sharpenings or blade replacements than you would have if you would have gotten a better quality blade to start with. A high quality saw blade can probably be sharpened 8-10 times so for many hobbyists it's a one time purchase.

[Knottscott]

TJR - No saw is any better than it's blade. It's not necessary to spend $100 to get good performance, but I honestly don't currently know of a regularly available deal on a 60T to 80T fine crosscut blade that's any better than the Oshlun for $30. Most in that price range are fairly poor quality, but you will stumble into some isolated specials or Ebay deals.

[sparkeyjames]

I have a DeWalt blade on my CMS (came with it) 60 tooth very minimal bottom tear out. Works well. I would probably put another on it (maybe the 80) as DeWalt blades are somewhat reasonably priced (last I checked about a year ago).