Finally got the lathe, turning tools needed...

[dbhost]

My local HF finally got a #34706 in stock, I had a $199.00 rain check, and was able to use the 20% off coupon... $160.00 for a Jet 1236 clone that gets good reviews... (Better than the Grizzly branded version of this same lathe...)

My question is, now what? I am COMPLETELY new to turning, beyond a few hands on demos I have NEVER done any turning... So what chisels etc... do I need?

I have the book "Learn to turn" on the way, and of course a mess of videos, but I am not sure beyond calipers what I need...

I am considering the PSI 8 pc HSS set...

Amazon link.

And this caliper set.

Are either of those worth considering? What else do I need to get starting going round & round?

[shoottx]

Get connected to a AAW local chapter and those folks can save you lots in ramp up time. http://www.woodturner.org/community/...alChapters.asp

[Uncle Cracker]

The tools you need will depend on what you are turning, and what tool is comfortable for you. I have a wall full of tools, but 95% of my work is done with only 3 of them: skew chisel, roughing gouge, and spindle gouge. Every turner gravitates to what his own needs require. As for training, look for local interest groups. They are usually happy to help. Most Woodcraft stores (or Rocklers if you have one) have excellent courses, although no course is any better then the teacher.

You are correct in looking at HSS. Crowns, Sorbys and Taylors are all very high quality, but remember that materials are the main thing. You will be shaping and sharpening the tools, and that will make a world of difference.

One more thing... Do like Nahm says, and wear high-impact eye protection. Turning is one activity where, without protection, it is not a question of whether you will go blind, but only when. You do not ever want to belly up to that lathe, even for a quick trim, without peeper protection.

[RayintheUK]

Many people, when starting out on a new hobby, tend to buy a set of tools - whether it be chisels, router bits, whatever. This can work out OK, providing that you accept that such sets are often a compromise and will be made to a price, for the budget market.

Like most other sets, there is likely to be a couple of tools that you will not use more than a couple of times. Because they're all made to a price, they will be necessarily of a lower quality, which - in turn - will affect not only their longevity, but also your turning experience.

I would start off with a ¾" roughing gouge, a ⅜" spindle gouge, a ⅜" bowl gouge and a parting tool. All of these should be the best you can afford, but their sharpening is as important as becoming familiar and skilled with their use. This is also something you should research carefully, as there are all sorts of "wonder systems" out there, each one having its own champions. Sharpening little and often is key, rather than let the cutting edge dull completely, so convenience and ease of use is important.

Please take heed of the advice already given on face protection. A fast-spinning object that suddenly becomes detached is not pleasant to deal with - however rare - and it's so easy to become complacent before your first "dig-in" or other drama. Don't be frightened of the possibility, just accept the inevitability and prepare for it.

Other tools, such as skew chisels, hollowing tools, etc. can come later - as your abilities and needs grow. An excellent resource is the book or video by Keith Rowley (Woodturning - A Foundation Course), although there are countless Internet pages devoted to the subject - many for beginners (here's one example).

Finally, ask existing turners any and all questions that occur to you. They usually love passing on hints and tips!

Ray

[herb fellows]

Whenever you're new to something, there is that fine line between buying something that is not priced too high (in case it turns out that you hate turning), and buying something that is good enough to not make you frustrated. Having bought too cheap in the past, I would tend to go in the other direction.
Look at the price difference between 3 high quality tools that you will use regularly and six medium quality of which you will mostly use 3. You will probably end up with the 3 better quality tools. If nothing else, the residual value of the 3 better tools will hold up better, so if it turns out that you hate it, you can always ebay them for a decent price.

[bthere]

You are going to find out that you can spend far more on the accessories than you do on the original lathe. If you can find a mentor, that may be the first place to start. Outside of tutorials, the first things you need after the lathe comes are safety equipment, turning tools, and wood.

As others have said, get face protection beofre you ever put a chunk of wood on the lathe. You should really get a full face shield in addition to eye protection. Some people have allergies, and many develop allergies to the wood dust, especially from tropical woods. Consider some dust collection or a respirator.

Others have already given good advice on the turning tools. You can get a set of tools, but you are likely to settle down to using only 3 or 4 regularly. The PSI Benjamin's Best are pretty decent and can get you going for a bit cheaper than Sorby's and other higher end tools. One thing to note is that the lathe requires a lot of practice to get good results. Each tool is unique and requires you to practice individually with it.

You will be messing up some wood before you get good, but that's fun, too. Find cheap wood to practice with. The cheapest is found wood from local blowdowns or trees that have been pruned or taken down. Unlike flatwork, you can use wet wood for rough turning, so you can get instant gratification.

[MikeMcM1956]

I have been turning pens, stoppers, etc for about six months, on a Shop Fox mini-lathe. My first set of tools was the most expensive one that HF sells, can't remember the P/N but it's an 8 piece set with dark red wood handles. They're HSS, and do a good job, need to keep them sharp like any other brand. I recently got a Wolverine sharpening system from CSUSA and a two-speed grinder from Woodcraft, makes 'em sharp in just seconds.

As mentioned previously, there will be a few tools in a set that you won't use often along with some you will be lacking as you get more experience. As I buy tools that aren't in my set, I'm buying Sorbys. Buying one at a time it's not so painful. My son gave me a Sorby gouge for Xmas, it allowed me to take my HF gouge and reshape it for a different purpose.

And I'll repeat what everyone else has said, WEAR EYE PROTECTION. A full face shield is my choice, and I have prescription safety galsses on underneath that. I like to see things, safety assures I will continue to do so....

Mike

[dbhost]

Thanks for the tips...

FWIW, ANY time a power tool is powered up in my shop. I am wearing at a minimum, my prescription eyeglasses, AND my full face shield. I simply cannot work without my glasses.

[warrenp]

Congrats on the new lathe. I picked on up about 6 months ago for about the same price and it has been great. I watched lots of youtube videos and read several books and then turned a few practice spindles.

I purchased the HF HSS white handled tool set and they worked fine. The best purchase that I made was the low speed wet sharpener at HF, though I am sure any of the others would do as well (maybe better ). I quickly learned that a properly sharpened tool makes a HUGE difference.

And then I picked up a bowl gouge at Woodcraft along with the attachments to sharpen it correctly. Oh...and to turn the bowls, I bought a used chuck.

That is about it...and it has been quite enjoyable. Turned some nice bowls.

With my limited experience, I think the most important supporting tool is the sharpener. Without that, the tools will be really hard to control with dull, incorrectly shaped edges.

Oh...yes...I also bought a face shield. Safety first.

Enjoy that lathe...and add tools wisely.

Warren

[dbhost]

Well, thanks for the advice guys. Yeah I considered the HF chisels first. I saw those in use at a demo at the Houston Home & Garden show a few years ago, I think they were demonstrating the ShopSmith..Anyway, I asked the guy about the chisels and he said they were the high speed steel ones from Harbor Freight....

Anyway, the S&H from Harbor Freight put them right at about the price of the PSI ones, and I couldn't find any dividers / calipers beyond the regular digital / dial calipers at HF. So I went ahead and ordered both items I linked. (And a set of countersinks since I am having some trouble with deburring holes from time to time...

[gerti]

Many good tips here. Some random musings:

I used that lathe for a few years and have been happy with it. The speed adjust makes a good place to hang a face shield, that way you'll never forget it. I consider a face shield mandatory, safety glasses alone will not be enough. Stuff WILL fly off the lathe, and I am not just talking dust and chips.

And as Mike said, find the closest AAW chapter. Many chapters offer hands-on sessions and/or let you find out about local turners who can help you get started, and there is no faster way learning than someone helping you. Often relatively minor tool handling adjustments (which you will not catch from books or videos) make all the difference. Some hands-on learning will really cut down on frustrations. And usually membership buys you a discount at some local stores.

The tool set you mention seems like a good place to start, especially to learn how to sharpen. Once you have an idea which tool(s) you use most and you know how to sharpen it right, buy the best quality tool you can afford, it will make a big difference. But no point in sharpening away expensive steel learning to sharpen... Plus the cheaper tools can later be reground for special purpose use.

Most turners use slow speed grinders, wet grinders are overkill on turning tools and typically take more time. Grinding jigs like the Wolverine, while expensive, make the sharpening a lot easier and results repeatable.

Roughing gouges (now called spindle roughing gouges) are for spindle type work ONLY. Never use them on bowl blanks.

Enjoy!

[RMCWoodWorks]

Hands-on training (books can't really suffice early-on) first, tools later ... the most basic are gouges, scrapers, skews, parting (cut-off) tools however ...

- some take much more experience to use successfully (parting tools easiest, gouges next, scrapers and skews hardest)
- the gouges for spindle turning (side grain) turning and bowl turning (end grain - side grain every 90 degrees) are completely different
- HSS for sure

If you can make it to Houston on the right Saturday, the Gulf Coast Woodturners will be a superb resource ...

Good luck!