Miter gauge tolerance

[jussi]

Used a dial indicator to measure how parallel my miter gauge is to my blade. Depending on which tooth I measure from the tolerance range from .005 to .01 inches

Is that acceptable?

[Tom Slick]

I prefer to measure to the plate, it takes the variability out of the tooth alignment.

[jonmulzer]

Depending on which tooth I measure from the tolerance range from .005 to .01 inches

Why are you not using the same tooth for front and back measurements?? What saw? What miter gauge?

[poolhound]

To measure the alignment of a fence or miterslot/gauge you really need to mark a single tooth and the rotate the blade and measure front and back.

You may also have arbor issues to contend with that are nothing to do with the actual parallel or straightness of a slot or fence.

[jussi]

I'm using the same tooth for one measurement. Measure it once with the tooth in the front and once to the back. But then I took another tooth and did the whole thing over again. Each measurement resulted in about .01 difference (no matter which tooth) but the actual distance between miter gauge and tooth changed depending on which tooth I took. I'm guessing there's a bit of runout from the blade.

I asking what's the acceptable tolerance. As I said right now I'm getting about .01

[ragswl4]

I'm using the same tooth for one measurement. Measure it once with the tooth in the front and once to the back. But then I took another tooth and did the whole thing over again. Each measurement resulted in about .01 difference (no matter which tooth) but the actual distance between miter gauge and tooth changed depending on which tooth I took. I'm guessing there's a bit of runout from the blade.

I asking what's the acceptable tolerance. As I said right now I'm getting about .01

On a crosscut I would guess that's accurate enough. 1/64" = 0.015625. On very long rips (if this same error occurs between the blade and the fence) you might have a problem with fitment. If possible try another blade and also measure the blade to fence parallelizm (is that a word?) to narrow it down to the unusual suspect. I agree with your approach to use the same tooth for measuring the front and back of the miter slot.

After rereading your OP I would try a different (new if possible) blade to eliminate that as the source of difference. Ensure there is no debris (sawdust, etc) between the inner arbor plate and the blade. What kind of saw?

[jussi]

On a crosscut I would guess that's accurate enough. 1/64" = 0.015625. On very long rips (if this same error occurs between the blade and the fence) you might have a problem with fitment. If possible try another blade and also measure the blade to fence parallelizm (is that a word?) to narrow it down to the unusual suspect. I agree with your approach to use the same tooth for measuring the front and back of the miter slot.

After rereading your OP I would try a different (new if possible) blade to eliminate that as the source of difference. Ensure there is no debris (sawdust, etc) between the inner arbor plate and the blade. What kind of saw?

Craftsman 22114

[ragswl4]

Craftsman 22114

Same saw that I have. I'll go measure mine using the same method and get back to you asap.

[radhak]

I read somewhere that acceptable is 0.003 to 0.007, and immediately checked my TS : worked out to 0.010 to 0.011 inches .

So while mine was way beyond 'acceptable', it was more consistent than yours . I'd guess you could try a different blade.

I have not attempted to fix mine - read up on the procedure and got sorta intimidated. Most of my cuts seem to come off okay - to me!

[ragswl4]

Ok here are the numbers.

1. Front to back measurement on same tooth was .002 difference.
2. I then moved the blade around and measured each tooth and largest difference was .005 while the nominal difference was .002 with some teeth measuring exactly the same as others.

Used dial indicator and Freud blade. I am getting very square cuts with an Incra miter gauge (V-27) and rips are +/- .001 in most cases using the stock fence (I like it).

[LCHIEN]

if you are trying to get below .01" in measuring, technique will have a lot to do with it. Pressing lightly on the blade can easily deflect it .005 I am thinking. You need to make sure there is absolutely no slop in the miter gauge track and the fixture for holding the dial gauge can not lean forwards or backwards (towards the blade) the slightest amount or that's probably another .005 or more.

As I just said, very technique sensitive.

[Relative]

Try this technique:

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/align-1.htm

Mike

[jussi]

I read somewhere that acceptable is 0.003 to 0.007, and immediately checked my TS : worked out to 0.010 to 0.011 inches .

So while mine was way beyond 'acceptable', it was more consistent than yours . I'd guess you could try a different blade.

I have not attempted to fix mine - read up on the procedure and got sorta intimidated. Most of my cuts seem to come off okay - to me!

The way I planned on correcting it was to unscrew 3 of the 4 bolts holding the table and just hit one of the corners. Kind of a brute force way to adjust something 1000ths of a inch but it's the only way I know how to do it.


Sad thing is it's a WWII blade so I thought it should be pretty accurate. I got it used though from a garage sale so who knows what abuse it went through.

[cabinetman]

I hate to say this, but I don't use fancy falootin' gauges or dial indicators to do a table saw alignment. They are probably pretty cool things to have and use if they are in the budget. The only time I'm concerned with numbers to the right and sometimes left of the decimal is with my blood alcohol content.

I keep in mind this ain't tool and die making, it's woodworking. Heck, I could show up to the shop at 7 AM, cut up some stuff, and by noon it's a different size.

With a mounted blade, I first crank the blade all the way up, and set it for 90 deg and check it with a drafting template. Then, I check to see if the blade is parallel to the miter slot. How do I do that you ask? Well it's easy, with the blade all the way up, I measure from the front and rear of the blade to the edge of the miter slot. If the distance is the same, I then mark one tooth, and rotate the blade so the tooth is in the front, and measure to the slot, and then rotate it to the back and measure to the slot. If there is a differential it could be in the blade, or the arbor on back. Watching a cut with an 1/8" tooth kerf may be an indicator if the cut is lookin' a bit wide. The sound of the blade may change, or the amount of vibration.

If everything is A-OK, I move on to the fence. That one is easy, I just lock it down and measure to the slot front and back, and if it's A-OK, I might go make a cup of coffee. If not, I start to figure out where in that order of things to shift or adjust to line it all up. I must be just lucky, because the work seems to come out OK.


.

[Pitman]

Yep, I use the drafting triangle as well. I think I would go nuts trying to achieve perfection with a dial indicator.

Of course it's the end results that matter, so when I think everything is good, I will take a small piece of scrap plywood, rip cut two sides, then cross cut the other two. Then stand it up on end and check it with the drafting triangle.