Drilling into metal questions??

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • steve-u
    Established Member
    • Nov 2005
    • 222
    • Bartlett, Ill.
    • Ryobi BT 3100

    #1

    Drilling into metal questions??

    I am going to be doing a repair project in the near future that is going to require me to use my Delta 12 inch benchtop drill press for drilling into metal. I will need to drill holes probably about 3/16 in diameter and also to countersink the screw heads. The metal will probably be along the lines of angle iron with the metal no more than 1/4 inch thick. I have never drilled metal much before other than real thin stuff or sheet metal. Anyhow my question is for such metal drilling do I need to use some sort of lubricant or is then not needed?? If a lubricant is needed what is recommended? I will be using Milwaukee Cobalt drill bits for the hole but still need to buy a countersink that can be used in metal [any recommendations?]. Also is there a good way to tell what countersink size to get for a project?? I am thinking about testing the countersink on scrap wood to see how deep I need to go for the screws I use.

    Thanks, Steve
  • drillman88
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 572
    • Southeast
    • Delta Platinum Edition Contractor Saw

    #2
    Be sure to mark your hole with a center punch to keep your bit from walking when you start your hole.If your bits are sharp you should be able to drill 3/16 with out needing to use a pilot bit, but if the metal is tough or your bit is on the dull side you may need to use a smaller bit to start the hole then move up.
    A 60 degree HSS 1/2" diameter countersink should matchup to the tapered
    machine screws if that is what you will be using.You can check with an angle gauge.wd-40 will work to lube the bit.you probably will not need to use on the 3/16 holes but it will be a good idea on the csinks.If they look like they are galling use more wd.
    I think therefore I .....awwww where is that remote.

    Comment

    • LCHIEN
      Super Moderator
      • Dec 2002
      • 21759
      • Katy, TX, USA.
      • BT3000 vintage 1999

      #3
      I think flat head screws were standardized at 82 degrees, not 60.
      Any size CS bit will work if you only want to make the FH screw flush.
      I just use some 3-in-one household oil or such when drilling a few holes.
      Sharp bits are obviously the way to go. I usually mark the hole with a punch then drill at least one smaller pilot hole and work my way up.
      Loring in Katy, TX USA
      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

      Comment

      • shoottx
        Veteran Member
        • May 2008
        • 1240
        • Plano, Texas
        • BT3000

        #4
        Be sure and set the drill speed for metal not wood speeds

        3/16 for steel shows 3000 rpm

        http://www.ibiblio.org/twa/info/drillSpeedChart.pdf
        Often in error - Never in doubt

        Mike

        Comment

        • Uncle Cracker
          The Full Monte
          • May 2007
          • 7091
          • Sunshine State
          • BT3000

          #5
          And... make sure your workpiece is well secured to the drilling table. When breaking through the backside of the piece, a drill bit will sometimes gouge. When it does so in a hard metal such as steel, it can grab the work and spin it, which can bust you up real good... (My neighbor's FIL had that happen, and it cost him half of his left index finger... )

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Super Moderator
            • Dec 2002
            • 21759
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            Originally posted by Uncle Cracker
            And... make sure your workpiece is well secured to the drilling table. When breaking through the backside of the piece, a drill bit will sometimes gouge. When it does so in a hard metal such as steel, it can grab the work and spin it, which can bust you up real good... (My neighbor's FIL had that happen, and it cost him half of his left index finger... )

            that's true, it'll sure grab when it breaks thru the back. Can cause extremely painful and serious injury. Either clamp it to the table OR set the piece so that when it spins in the clockwise direction its already resting against the post. Or both. If its too short to rest against the column then you have to clamp it.

            Good safety tip.
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • master53yoda
              Established Member
              • Oct 2008
              • 456
              • Spokane Washington
              • bt 3000 2 of them and a shopsmith ( but not for the tablesaw part)

              #7
              Originally posted by shoottx
              Be sure and set the drill speed for metal not wood speeds

              3/16 for steel shows 3000 rpm

              http://www.ibiblio.org/twa/info/drillSpeedChart.pdf
              the 3000 looks way to fast I pulled my machinist book out and it says 1325 for 3/16 and 765 for a 3/8 counter sink.

              I looked at a wood magazine speed chart and it shows 3000 for 3/16 and 1000 for 1/4" I think this is chart is just too gross in its measurements. also the speed for aluminum in the machinist book is 2580. In the main machinist calc section all the formulas are based on surface speed (feet per second )

              http://its.fvtc.edu/MachShop1/drillpress/cutspeeds.htm This website has all the hard formula work for those interested. Bear in mind that these calcs all assume lubrication.
              Art

              If you don't want to know, Don't ask

              If I could come back as anyone one in history, It would be the man I could have been and wasn't....

              Comment

              • iceman61
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2007
                • 699
                • West TN
                • Bosch 4100-09

                #8
                Originally posted by master53yoda
                the 3000 looks way to fast I pulled my machinist book out and it says 1325 for 3/16 and 765 for a 3/8 counter sink.

                I looked at a wood magazine speed chart and it shows 3000 for 3/16 and 1000 for 1/4" I think this is chart is just too gross in its measurements. also the speed for aluminum in the machinist book is 2580. In the main machinist calc section all the formulas are based on surface speed (feet per second )

                http://its.fvtc.edu/MachShop1/drillpress/cutspeeds.htm This website has all the hard formula work for those interested. Bear in mind that these calcs all assume lubrication.
                I agree. 3000 is way too fast to drill metal. Also when you feel the bit start to break through the other side, back off the pressure. You need a thick cutting oil when drilling metal. What Loring described will work also. WD-40 is not thick enuff to protect your bit.

                Comment

                • Tom Slick
                  Veteran Member
                  • May 2005
                  • 2913
                  • Paso Robles, Calif, USA.
                  • sears BT3 clone

                  #9
                  according to my calc's for mild steel and a 3/16" drill bit should be about 2000 RPM

                  that's using RPM= (CSx4)/D
                  CS= cutting speed, 80 to 120 is safe for mild steel
                  D=diameter=.1875

                  100x4 = 400
                  400/.1875= 2133 RPM

                  80x4=320
                  320/.1875= 1706 RPM
                  Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

                  Comment

                  • LinuxRandal
                    Veteran Member
                    • Feb 2005
                    • 4890
                    • Independence, MO, USA.
                    • bt3100

                    #10
                    The oils I tend to use are either straight 30 weight, or that 3 in 1 oil. More the first (larger bottle), as it keeps the bits cooler (stays sharper) and helps take the bits away from the hole.

                    At the ole garage, we used what was available (trans fluid, new motor oil as used was harder to watch chip flow, penetrating lube when drilling overhead).
                    She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

                    Comment

                    • steve-u
                      Established Member
                      • Nov 2005
                      • 222
                      • Bartlett, Ill.
                      • Ryobi BT 3100

                      #11
                      Thanks for all the replies - very helpful information! And yes I plan on using clamps to secure the piece I am working on and plan on first starting with smaller hole and working my way up. I do have both motor oil and 3 in 1 oil so it looks like I already have the needed lubricants.

                      Thanks, Steve

                      Comment

                      Working...