Ap-10 planer

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  • tommyt654
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2008
    • 2334

    #1

    Ap-10 planer

    Hello all, I have a chance to p/u a used AP-10 planer with a new set of extra knives for $80.00. I have a 6 inch Delta jointer that I stole from Lowes a JT-360 for 80 bucks but it does not have the width capability I need for wider boards. I,ve read some reviews on this planer and all seem good although outdated since this model hasnt been around for quite some time.And the current owner has said it has some roller issues with regard to the feed roller. So my question I guess is buy this at a reasonable price or hold out for a better deal later on down the line. Any help is appreciated since I am fairly new to woodworking. Thanks
  • ragswl4
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 1559
    • Winchester, Ca
    • C-Man 22114

    #2
    Originally posted by tommyt654
    Hello all, I have a chance to p/u a used AP-10 planer with a new set of extra knives for $80.00. I have a 6 inch Delta jointer that I stole from Lowes a JT-360 for 80 bucks but it does not have the width capability I need for wider boards. I,ve read some reviews on this planer and all seem good although outdated since this model hasnt been around for quite some time.And the current owner has said it has some roller issues with regard to the feed roller. So my question I guess is buy this at a reasonable price or hold out for a better deal later on down the line. Any help is appreciated since I am fairly new to woodworking. Thanks
    First a planer will not take the place of a jointer, they are different animals. That said if the planer works (I have no experience with the AP-10) then it is certainly worth $80. If it were me, I would ask to plane a piece of hardwood to see the results and then decide. $80 for a planer that leaves a crappy surface on the wood is still $80 down the drain. I picked up a used DEWALT 733 for $150 a year ago and it is a great planer. Once more, test it if you can.
    RAGS
    Raggy and Me in San Felipe
    sigpic

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    • tommyt654
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2008
      • 2334

      #3
      Thanks for the advice Rags. Perhaps I should have said Planer/Jointer as I have Planned several 2x4s and 2x6 pieces of pine and maple with the Jt-360. But it is hard to do , if not impossible any wider pieces. I shall heed your advice and take some scrap with me when I go to see it, Thanks, Tommy the one legged elf.

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      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        There's a pretty decent thread on the AP-10 here. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ighlight=ap-10
        Erik

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        • LCHIEN
          Super Moderator
          • Dec 2002
          • 22001
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          Originally posted by tommyt654
          Thanks for the advice Rags. Perhaps I should have said Planer/Jointer as I have Planned several 2x4s and 2x6 pieces of pine and maple with the Jt-360. But it is hard to do , if not impossible any wider pieces. I shall heed your advice and take some scrap with me when I go to see it, Thanks, Tommy the one legged elf.
          Rags has a point, actually he makes several good points.
          A JT360 (and I have one) is a decent face planer and jointer. It'll make one face nice and flat. But you need a thickness planer to make the other side Parallel. You could flip it and make the other side flat on the jointer-planer but it would not be guaranteed uniform thickness. I've seen some boards go trapezoidal!

          Get a good Thickness paner and you'll be set. The AP-10 was an OK planer - don't recall any negatives on it posted in the past, but beware if its not working right.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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          • drumpriest
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2004
            • 3338
            • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
            • Powermatic PM 2000

            #6
            A "jointer/planer" is a misnomer. A jointer makes a flat face, but cannot create a set of parallel faces. You need both to mill stock, first create a flat reference face using the jointer, then use the planer to cut a parallel face. Here's a good video on milling stock.

            http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-...inters-jumpin/

            A 10" planer should be sufficient for a 6" jointer, I would worry about 2 things.

            1 - does it work well now?
            2 - can I get knives for it in the future?
            Keith Z. Leonard
            Go Steelers!

            Comment

            • tommyt654
              Veteran Member
              • Nov 2008
              • 2334

              #7
              Once again thanks for all the info,I think I,m going to buy it because the fellow I,m purchasing it from I met on a forum at Woodnet.com and he seems to be a very nice person over the phone. But I will test it first. As far as the blades he is throwing a new set as well with the deal. So thanks again for all the help. This is a great community of people here. One day if I ever learn how to upload pictures from my camera I,ll show some pics of the furniture I,ve been building for my wife and mines home. Cya, Tommy the one legged elf

              Comment

              • shoottx
                Veteran Member
                • May 2008
                • 1240
                • Plano, Texas
                • BT3000

                #8
                I have an AP-10 mine has been an absolute work horse. I have run 6" wide 3" thick 12' long white oak through the little monster.

                A couple of points; The critical issue is in getting everything set up correctly to minimize snipe and provide a smooth cut. If you don't have a manual I have one in pdf

                Parts are still available,

                New blades can be purchased from Frued.

                If you don't get the blade sharpening guide and the blade setting guide order one right away.

                And If you have questions drop me an email, I will try to help.
                Often in error - Never in doubt

                Mike

                Comment

                • JimD
                  Veteran Member
                  • Feb 2003
                  • 4187
                  • Lexington, SC.

                  #9
                  A key point is whether it comes with the original accessories. I paid $100 for one just a few weeks ago that came with the original sharpening guide, setting gauge, extra rollers, wrenches and allen wrenches. It also came with two manuals.

                  I really like my AP-10. The knives were very dull. They were so hard to get out I wonder if they had ever been sharpened. It would still plane but poorly. Once I got the knives sharpened, it cuts great. I have planned cherry over 9 inches wide. Half a turn is about the max it seems to want to take off wide boards but that is over 1/32 and each pass doesn't take long. The knife sharpening jig it came with makes sharpening pretty easy. I also bought an extra set for about $25.

                  The knife setting gauge works, you put the knives in a holder and then into the planner, but I found it necessary to check the width with a dial caliper too. Without that I was out 1/64 of an inch one end to the other.

                  Most newer planners use replaceable, disposable knives. Being able to sharpen them pretty easily should save significant money in the long run.

                  Snipe is small to non-existant with the extra rollers.

                  Jim

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