I just received a 21829. With a calliper I've measured the front and back of the blade to the edge of the main table and there seems to be a significant alignment issue (a 1/16th!!) . Is this something I can tune? Or should I send the whole thing back and get the Bosch? I really want to love this saw. BUT! The mitre table is also needing alignment too. When I clamp to the rails it binds when slid this seems to be included in the instructions though.
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I wouldn't check to the edge of the table. It is more important (but not critical) that the blade be aligned within the slot in the throat plate. If I could "see" (with my eyes, and not measuring) any misalignment there, I'd be inclined to return the saw.
I'd believe the BT3K is a better cabinet maker's saw than the Bosch. I recently looked at the 4100 as a possible option in replacing my Ryobi. But items that draw me to the BT3K over the Bosch:
(1) More flexible rail system to which I have mounted my router table, a custom miter slot table (extended length for cross-cutting up to 24" panels, etc).
(2) Nicer/more flexible fence.
(3) Crank for adjusting the bevel (the Bosch just kinda flops).
(4) There was another important consideration which I can't remember now.
OTOH, the Bosch I think excels at jobsite work. It is very well respected for its durability and holding alignment. I just wouldn't want to try cross-cutting a 24" panel on it. -
Welcome to the forum!
The short answer is that everything is meant to align to the blade, so no adjustment of the arbor is possible.
On the 21829 there are two auxiliary tables, so getting it identified as to which one you're talking about is important. The Sliding Miter Table (SMT) slides, so that's pretty straightforward. The Accessory Table on that saw has two miter slots.
The sliding miter table is the one you need to worry about first and foremost. The alignment is done in relation to the blade. The manual describes the alignment method for this. You should be able to get it within a gnat's behind.
The Accessory Table does NOT align to the blade. It's a bit of a mystery as to what the miter slots are for, but perhaps they would be useful for routing operations.
JRJRComment
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leap of faith
OK I just read another post similar to mine. I will take the leap of faith and continue setting it up and align everything to the blade. The 21829 comes with a second mitre gauge too I guess I just tweak that as well. The rolling/folding base is Sweeeet! I love the fact that I'll be able to throw (ok lug) this saw onto the back of my truck for small jobs offsite.Comment
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If you have two Accessory tables, or just doing narrow ripping, one can be placed on the side of blade opposite the fence (e.g., for right-side fence operation, place the extra Accessory table on the left) - and the mitre slots work great for feather boards like this (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4757) (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...s=4757&pcs=fam).Bill in Buena ParkComment
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if the arbor/blade was indeed 1/16th out, then making a rip cut on a test piece with a thin kerf blade would produce a kerf of .100+.062 or about .162" - easy enough to check if you use the internal measurement tips on your calipers.
If it was out that much you would then need to decide if the blade was mounted badly, warped, or the arbor was bent/out of concentric. All these are usually pretty unlikely.
If the cut kerf is very close to the blade kerf then don't worry about it.
Aligning the blade to the table is meaningless, because the BT3K family saw don't have adjustable motor/arbor/blade carriage adjustments. The rip fence and SMT are to be aligned parallel to the blade.Last edited by LCHIEN; 11-01-2008, 02:21 PM.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Test cuts
I ran out of time today (Hallowe'en) but will be doing some test cuts before and after I do the tweaking over the next couple of days. I do find it unfathomable that the arbor is out that much straight from the factory, something must be up. Everything else on this machine seems well thought out for the most part. Thanks for the replies I'll try to post some pictures too.Comment
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at least the fence is super easy to adjust 1/16"Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas EdisonComment
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Mkochsch,
The blade isn't meant to be aligned to the main table on the 21829. There aren't any miter slots, etc. in the main table that would need it to be aligned.
Both the rip fence and the sliding miter table are easy to adjust to the blade. The saw's manual has good instructions for that. My sliding miter table was perfectly aligned out of the box, although the rip fence needed a (very slight) bit of adjustment. After those adjustments, my saw gives dead straight rips and good clean miters.
The accessory table miter slots (and the included miter gauge) are for use with a router mounted in the accessory table. I found that with larger bits (a raised panel door set) in the router, the miter gauge / slot is too close to the bit and I would have nipped off part of the gauge or destroyed my bit if I had used it, though.
I would also highly recommend sending a PM to Loring (lchien) to get a copy of the BT3 FAQ. It helped me a lot in answering many of my questions about the saw.
Good luck, and let us know how the alignment and test cuts turn out.
Bryan--
BryanComment
LCHIEN
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