I was watching wood works and Marks was cutting out a notch by passing the wood perpendicular to the blade (left to right) on the TS. I've thought about doing this before but thought it might somehow damage the blade. Maybe warp it some how. Is this ok to do and would the same go for a miter saw?
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I reject your reality and substitute my own. -
I assume you mean widening the notch from kerf-width to wider by sliding the workpiece along the miter fence, wit the piece vertical (notch down) and centered over the arbor.
I think that would work if the wood were not too thick.
I've done similar before.
If the piece is thick then the top of the notch begins to have a curve in it.
You can cut repetitive notches by using stop blocks on the miter fence to the left and using the rip fence as a stop on the right.Last edited by LCHIEN; 09-06-2008, 09:50 PM.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions -
I think there's a caveat. The teeth will cut on the side as well as on the top. But they will only cut as deep as the carbide. So this technique will not work if the depth of the notch is too deep... Like more than the carbide length from tip towards the gullet, I presume. If its too deep the side of the notch will be rubbing against the side of the steel body which is not sharp for cutting, it may wear off the wood to an extent but that would be bad and also lead to a uneven side where the carbide ends.
So practically, this can only be used up to maybe as much as a quarter inch or less.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Notching like doing box joints, the depth of cut doesn't matter, as long as the cut/pass is the width of the kerf.
But, to cut a kerf, and stop the blade and slide the stock left or right as it sits in the kerf is not recommended. The edges of the teeth are sharp, but the cutting action is a scraping action in a forward direction, not intended to plow side to side.
If the blade is only raised the height of the teeth, it will cut in a side manner, but I wouldn't recommend doing that procedure. In doing box type kerf cuts, using a sled, or a stop on the fence that's a "step off" guide, so the work piece isn't trapped between the blade and the fence.
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I just saw that show (no pun intended).
David Marks was cutting a shallow half lap joint for the shelves on a butcher block table built from his scraps. He mentioned that he only moved the sled forward 1/4" at a time but was, I believe, cutting a 1/2" deep joint, therefore only cutting 1/4" deep too.
It did ,at first, look un-professional for him but, it seems to work well.Do like you always do,,,,,,Get what you always get!!Comment
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I appreciate that this is a non-through cut, plus the cut is a shallow one.Originally posted by LCHIEN
However, I would NEVER recommend using a combination of miter fence and rip fence in any situation, in case someone - unthinkingly or unknowingly - takes that recommendation into a situation which could harm them, such as in a through cut.
Just a safety reminder.
Ray.Did I offend you? Click here.Comment
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On this one I'll have to disagree with you Ray but it's a matter of where and how you use the rip fence as a stop.I appreciate that this is a non-through cut, plus the cut is a shallow one.
However, I would NEVER recommend using a combination of miter fence and rip fence in any situation, in case someone - unthinkingly or unknowingly - takes that recommendation into a situation which could harm them, such as in a through cut.
Just a safety reminder.
Ray.
Say you want to nibble away a tennon or half lap using the miter gage.... I clamp a short block to the rip fence even with the blade and then sit the fence up so the distance between the clamped block and the opposite side of the saw tooth is the distance I need. Lock the fence then move the block to the front (closest to the operator) of the fence so as the work can be moved up against it to set the distance but the work will completely clear the setup block well before it can come in contact with the blade. PatWoodworking is therapy.....some of us need more therapy than others. <ZERO>Comment
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Pat, that's how I do it, with a stop block. Look again at the quotation I referred to and it only mentions the rip fence, hence the concern and the subsequent warning.
Ray.Did I offend you? Click here.Comment
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I watched that show last night and he didn't use the rip fence or miter gauge, he had 2 stop blocks clamped to the rear upright of his panel sled and slid the workpiece back and forth between them.Comment
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Woodworking is therapy.....some of us need more therapy than others. <ZERO>Comment
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You will sometimes see David Marks and Norm Abrams do this to clean up a notch made from several passes with the TS blade as well. I wouldn't do this unless the cut was TINY, just me....Keith Z. Leonard
Go Steelers!Comment
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any of you guys ever cut a cove on the table saw? Similar concept. you set up an aux. fence to run the material across the blade at an angle other then parallel. Rockler sells jigs to do it.Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas EdisonComment
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I made a bedroom set this way. Cove cut raised panels on the headboard and footboard. Takes a lot of time, you take very small cuts on each pass using a slow feed rate. I intend to use the same method on my next project which has two very large deep coves on the feet. PatWoodworking is therapy.....some of us need more therapy than others. <ZERO>Comment
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I didn't see the show, but from everyones descriptions it doesn't seem like the proceedure would ever show up in a 'best practices' book.
I did some coves when replicating some drawer pulls. I was cutting 1/8" or less on each pass. I wouldn't be too thrilled about doing it again.ErikComment
LCHIEN
Pat
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