Ryobi 18V Lithium drill?

[JeffG78]

I have a dilema. My current drill, a DeWalt 14.4V XRP has just about used up its batteries and I'm not sure what to buy. I LOVE the DeWalt and use it more than any other tool I own, but the batteries are rediculously expensive for it. Two new batteries at HD run $140 (compared to $40 for two 18V NiCad Ryobi batteries). I can get them new online for around $110 shipped, or buy a pair of rebuilt packs for around $95 shipped (though quality is unknown). I am a bit of a tool snob in that I can't stand to use cheap tools. They just don't feel as good as quality tools. I read reviews, ask around, try to borrow from a friend, etc before I commit to buying. I was at HD this past weekend and looked at the new Ryobi 618P kit that includes a drill, a flashlight, charger, and two 18V Li-ion batteries for $179. I picked it up and it felt decent in my hand, but I just don't know... How is the chuck? How is the balance? What about the transmission and reverse switches? Are they easy to use on the fly and do they work smoothly? How many charge cycles with the lithium batteries take? New Ryobi Li-Ion batteries run $80 each, so like the DeWalt, the drill/flashlight are almost free with the purchase of two batteries. Anybody here own the Li-Ion Ryobi?

A new NiCad 14.4V DeWalt is around $200 and mine is still perfect other than the batteries, so do I spend more to get the Li-Ion Ryobi, or stick with the trusty DeWalt and buy new batteries? My current batteries lasted only four years. I don't consider that very long for a $200 tool

[jonmulzer]

Have you considered rebuilding the batteries yourself? I could probably dig around and find a link that shows you how to do it. I have done it myself and if you can halfway use a soldering iron you can do it. Then you know it is done right.

[Pappy]

I have Ryobi One+ in both NiCad and LiIon but haven't had them long enough to answer most of your questions. So far, I am a happy camper. I like the versatility of the batteries working in both generation of tools and the variety of tools available. (Just bought the power caulk gun a couple of days ago.)

[JeffG78]

Have you considered rebuilding the batteries yourself? I could probably dig around and find a link that shows you how to do it. I have done it myself and if you can halfway use a soldering iron you can do it. Then you know it is done right.

Yes, I actually took my completely dead pack apart and looked at it. From what I understand, only a few cells usually go bad. I still have two 12V DeWalt batteries from my last drill that I could possibly use as donors cells if needed. I am okay with a soldering iron and I have read the articles, but I didn't want to try it until my second battery dies completely. The cells fit in the case very tightly and they are shrink wrapped from the factory, so I would think that it would be smart to make a jig to hold the cells in the same configuration while soldering. I didn't cut the shrink wrap off yet, but I am guessing that the cells are connected via straps rather than wires??? If so, they would need to be held in tight formation during re-soldering.

Jon, did you replace all the cells, or just the bad ones? How much did the new cells cost and where did you buy them? Thanks for the help.

[JeffG78]

I have Ryobi One+ in both NiCad and LiIon but haven't had them long enough to answer most of your questions. So far, I am a happy camper. I like the versatility of the batteries working in both generation of tools and the variety of tools available. (Just bought the power caulk gun a couple of days ago.)

Pappy, is the power about the same between the two? From what you have seen so far, does the drill feel well designed, or would you want ergonomic changes? Thanks for the help.

[jonmulzer]

I actually picked up some brand new batteries on the cheap from a friend who was using his tailgate as a workbench to make a squirrel feeder, put his batteries on the charger, forgot his drill and saw on the tailgate and went to the store. No need for battery packs without tools. I pillaged those for cells. You can find them cheap on the internet though. As for holding them in place, just wrap them with a couple of rounds of electrical tape before you solder. The batteries are held together with straps, all it takes is a little heat and you can pull them free and set them aside. You can check which cells are bad without desoldering though, you just need to get the shrinkwrap off the ends. I just replaced the bad cells and it has probably been over a year and they are still going strong.

[jussi]

Check Home Depot for the Dewalt 18V drill on sale.

[Jes Pidlin]

You might want to give these folks a try, www.mtobattery.com. I had two Makita 9.2 volt, and two Dewalt 12 volt batteries rebuilt about a year ago for a total of about $60, and so far I am well satisfied.

They also sell parts for do-it-yourselfers if you are intrested in going that route.

[JeffG78]

...You can check which cells are bad without desoldering though, you just need to get the shrinkwrap off the ends. I just replaced the bad cells and it has probably been over a year and they are still going strong.

I was wondering about that. I was (incorrectly) thinking the straps tie all the cells together current-wise such that I couldn't evaluate an individual cell. I was going to test them, but figured I'd have to desolder first. I'm a mechanical engineer. The only thing I know about electrical stuff is that it runs on smoke. Fortunately, I don't let it out very often.

If I can determine that I only have a few bad cells, rebuilding them will be easy. I can steal cells from my old 12V packs, so I should have enough good ones to do it for free. They might not last super long, but I'd buy some time before buying new packs.

[jonmulzer]

You might be surprised how long those used cells will last. You will probably be able to get another year out of them unless you are unlucky.

Since all the cells are linked together in series you can check them simply by touching a multimeter to the positive and negative of the individual cells. Make sure you charge the pack overnight before testing it. The cells are 1.2V each, 1.3V will be what a good strong cell will read. 1.1V or less and that cell is shot. On a Porter-Cable battery pack I rebuilt for a friend, one cell had went below 1.1V, all the rest were good and replacing that single cell made the battery pack go from running dead in the circular saw in a foot to ripping 3/4" Birch plywood like a champ.

It is easier than you think. Go for it, what do you have to lose really?

[Crash2510]

we have been using the ryobi 18v tools for the last 6 years and while it is not a bosch or milwaukee they are still quality tools. our original drill has put up with 6 years of daily use. We have just recently (like everyone else) taken the plunge into li-ion ryobi and the difference is amazing good battery life and more consistent power.

[JeffG78]

Thanks for the info guys. I was going to tear my packs apart tonight, but I started watching Deadliest Catch and got lazy. I will try to revive my battery packs, but when they do die for good, I think I'm going to get the Ryobi Li-ion. I'm a big DeWalt fan, but the BT3100 taught me that the most expensive isn't always better than the Ryobi tools.

I really need a second drill anyway, so the DeWalt might stick around for good. I might treat it to one new battery and use it as a backup tool after I buy a new Ryobi.

[jonmulzer]

I picked up a 14.4V Craftsman on the clearance rack at Sears tonight for $24.99. I wanted another drill also because I have been using my Kreg jig a lot for the past few days and wanted something to just drive in the screws. I grabbed that drill and an impact driver. Impact drivers are just as amazing as everyone made them out to be.

[JeffG78]

Well, I tore my bad 14.4V pack apart today. It had four completely dead cells and the rest tested between 1.24V and 1.35V. I then charged and checked both of my old 12V packs from a previous DeWalt drill. One wouldn't charge at all and the other tested around 5V after a charge. As luck would have it, it had four good cells. I pulled the good cells out and replaced the four bad cells of my 14.4V pack. The soldering went easier than I expected. When finished, I checked the pack and now have over 14 volts rather than the 9.85 I started with. I threw the "new" pack back on the charger to see where it ends up, but so far, I think I bought myself some time and I did it for FREE. My second pack has been working well lately and it reads over 15V when fully charged, so I hope they are both good enough to use for a while.

If I was going to build up packs from scratch, I think I would want to build a jig to hold the cells in place while I solder them. I needed an extra hand on a few of the cells.

Thanks for the help everyone.

UPDATE: After a charge, the repaired pack reads right at 16V. Hopefully it has a decent run time too.

[jonmulzer]

I told you it would be easier and cheaper than you thought. I hope this info helps others and more people try it. It is also especially nice when you can do it for FREE!! (not accounting for time that is...)