Craftsman fine finish blade (32259)

[cwithboat]

I have a 10" blade with a kerf of 3/32". The expansion slots are 7/8" deep. It is not hollow ground. I can find no reference to it on the Sears web site.

The question is; what are the limitations on this blade? Depth of cut, rip/crosscut, material?

[LCHIEN]

I have a 10" blade with a kerf of 3/32". The expansion slots are 7/8" deep. It is not hollow ground. I can find no reference to it on the Sears web site.

The question is; what are the limitations on this blade? Depth of cut, rip/crosscut, material?

Lot of missing info.
are they expansion slots (usually thin, j-hook or labyrinth) or gullets?
No. of teeth?
Carbide?
Tooth configuration? FT, ATB,
hook angle? - how much and positive or negative
CLose up icture of about 5-teeth section would be useful to guess.

[cwithboat]

Sorry Loring, I was in a hurry, we had to take a cat to the vet.

[LCHIEN]

offhand, it looks like a 60-tooth carbide blade, with modest sized gullets and a 10-15 degree hook angle, probably intended for cross cutting on a table saw. The carbide is small, the higher priced blades have thicker (bigger) carbides for more sharpenings.
CAn't see the tooth configuration whether a ATB (top bevels) or not (where alternate teeth have come to a point on the right or left to facilitate cutting the grain rather than tearing as a flat top tooth would do) for a cleaner cut.

I forgot to add, it's a rather pedestrian blade, not their super high-end, "Best" quality they used to advertise; They would have thicker carbide and usually those would be labelled "Craftsman Professional" and "Excalibur".

[Knottscott]

Craftsman changes blade vendors quite often so it's hard to narrow it down...could be an Irwin Classic, B&D, Oldham, or some other, definitely nothing too fancy. As Loring points out, it does have a slightly positive hook angle. It looks to be made from stamped steel as opposed to laser cut, and if you look really close you can see that the carbide height alternates just a bit as it protrudes above the blade shoulder, which indicates that its likely an Alternating Top Bevel grind (ATB), but there could surely be some hidden flat or chamfered rakers in there too. It should be fine for general crosscutting on a TS or CMS to full blade height, and should be able to rip a bit to an inch to maybe 1-1/2" depending. Probably not a good choice for a RAS or SCMS. Try it as long as everything looks up to snuff!

Be sure to keep the cat away from it!