Newb doing restoration

[jussi]

I got this RAS a while back but am just now getting around to taking it apart and cleaning 'er up. I've never done any type of restoration before so bare with my noob questions. I'm probably gonna have alot more questions but here are a couple I have so far. I'll add them to the original post as I think of more.

1. The screw in the pic is stuck. I saturated it with WD-40 overnight but it still won't budge. I already broke 3 bits on it.

2. The electrical cord is a little frayed. Should I replace it or just wrap it with electrical tape? I have a bunch of old computer power cords, can I use that or do I need something more substantial?

3. Do you think I should take out all the electrical components from the housing.

4. Some of the paint is chipping so I thought I'd repaint it as well. What's the easiest way to strip it. Regular old paint stripper?

5. What type of paint should I use. I read rustoleum primer followed by an enamel paint was good. What do you think?

[LinuxRandal]

WHAT BRAND?


I think that is an old DeWalt, but can't be sure (don't know all the models).

I would join and look at the DeWalt Radial arm saw forums over at Delphi. There are paint mixes if one wants to try to match the old coloring. Otherwise the Rustoleum Hammered paint is popular for this.

As for the screw, I would be leary (VERY CAREFUL), but I would consider using an impact driver. (sears item 47641 for a picture) You make sure it is set to turn the correct direction, then hit it with a hammer and it loosens and turns. These are used on Brake drums all the time.

REPLACE the cord, NO tape.
I would use a piece of the cord to get the right size and length, and not use pc power cords.

[docrowan]

On the stuck screw: It depends on how thick the housing metal is and what's under that cover, but you may consider heating it up with a propane torch. Don't do this if the housing is very thin or if there are electrical components or other "meltables" under that housing.

[jussi]

Thanks guys. LinuxRandal, thanks for reminding me about that site. Someone here told me about it when I first got the saw (mid of last year) and asked about it. I think it may have been you. It's a Dewalt. I think the model is 925. Will have to check when I get home. The screw is bigger than the standard drill bits so the bits only grab a small portion. I'm going to stop by a borg on my way home to see about a bigger #3 bit. If not I'll give the impact driver a try. I'm kind of leary about using a blow torch. I'm no purist so I don't need to have it to the original color, just something better than flaking off green (The color I have now). Will they sell the cords at borg as well? When you reattach the power cord do you just solder it on to where you cut it off?

[Popeye]

Will they sell the cords at borg as well? When you reattach the power cord do you just solder it on to where you cut it off?[/quote]
They sell power cord by the foot. I wouldn't just cut it off, I'd disconnect it where it's wired and reconnect the new cord there. While you're at it get a new three prong plug.
Also on the stuck screw get a can of "PB Blaster" I find it works better on really tough problems than WD 40. Pat

[LinuxRandal]

They sell power cord by the foot. I wouldn't just cut it off, I'd disconnect it where it's wired and reconnect the new cord there. While you're at it get a new three prong plug.
Also on the stuck screw get a can of "PB Blaster" I find it works better on really tough problems than WD 40. Pat

I do agree PB Blaster is MUCH better then WD 40. As for the cord, I would have to see how it is mounted internally. If it ends on screw terminals, I would replace it there. If not, I may leave a little bit of it internally, and solder the end of the new power cord (yes sold by the foot, but you need to go up in size for a much longer cord), to it.


I believe I was the one, and that is considered one of the real good models! They do have a LOT of information about it on the Delphi site, as well as OWWM.Com

I didn't answer about stripping, because I don't have a lot of experience. The only thing I have ever used (misc projects) was aircraft stripper (nasty stuff).

[LCHIEN]

they (Home Depot, Lowes, Ace) sell heavy duty replacement cords with the 3-conductor plug already molded on, I suggest just using that. The opposite end will be pigtailed, e.g. the outer jacket stripped back a few inches and the individual wires trimmed and stripped. Usually easily available to 16 ga, 6 ft. Current rating will be on it, but I think its good to 12-15 Amps.

On the inside, fasten the same way the original was. either soldered on or put crimp lugs on it and screw to the terminals.

For the screw, definately a snug fitting bit is called for, anything loose is a roundoff waiting to happen. An impact driver sure could be of great help once you get the right bit.

[just started]

It's hard to tell for sure from the pix, but I think the power leads are soldered to the lugs and should be again. The wire looks like it's #12 stranded and that's what you need to put in again. You can get 12-2 w/ground SJO cable (the round black rubber-coated stuff) by the foot and put a good-quality wall plug on it or if you want a molded plug buy an air-conditioner extension cord (be sure it is #12 wire) and cut the female end off.

[jussi]

Here are a few more pics of the electrical. All stranded wiring. Power cord goes into the RAS and the hot and neutral wires are crimped to a switch. Another set of wires are crimped onto the the other side of the switch and those lead to the motor. The ground wire bypasses the switch and is crimped on to the other ground wire. The cover on a couple of the wires have come completely off. They turned brittle and flaked off when I touched them. Should I un-crimp the wires and start over or just leave a little piece and solder the new wires on. As you may be able to see from the picture however the insulation that became brittle and fell off is from the piece next to the switch. I was thinking of using that liquid electrical tape there if I was just going to pig tail it . Is that safe?

The leads that go to the motor are soldered on to the cap and inductor.

BTW, you can click on pics to enlarge.

[jussi]

Ok I stripped it. One of the scews in the first pic. I got the other one out however. Now what? Should I just drill it out? Or use an extraction tool. I'm hesitant on using the extraction tool as I doubt it will get enough of a grip since I wasn't able to do it before I stripped the screw. Any tips on how to drill the scew out without damaging the tool?

[Pappy]

If there is any of the head left, you might still be able to use an impact driver.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93481

You might have to cut a straight slot in the head first. A Dremel style tool would be best to cut it with but it can be done with a chisel. Drilling would be my last resort.

From what I see in the pictures, it would not be safe to save any of the existing power cord. If you aren't comfortable with making the cord connections, call around and find a tool dealer that does repairs. They would also have cords on hand.

[jonmulzer]

While they do sell replacement cords and such and that is a fine way to go, I have found in the past that it is usually cheaper to buy an extension cord and cut it down to the length you need and tie that in. I remember several times buying 12/2 black extension cords with the 3 female plugs on one end and using those. In my Lowe's and HD they are near the end of the extension cords as you first come into the aisle. IIRC they were half the price of the replacement cords and seemed to be heavier built. Them being cheaper makes sense because I imagine they sell a lot more extension cords than they do replacements. Worth a look and may save a buck or two.

An impact driver will probably still work. I have used them many times after already stripping out a screw that I would not have messed up if I had dug the 1970's impact driver out of the bottom of the toolbox. Impact drivers are one of those tools that you never think about until you need them, but no shop should be without. Amazing, ingenious, simple tools.

If you have a small cold chisel and a small ball peen hammer you may also be able to use it. Use a good sharp one and put it point down at about a 45 degree angle driving it counter clockwise. Tap it a couple of times to set the edge and give it a few good taps. You should not need to hit it real hard. Each time you strike it it rattles it loose and then will eventually start turning. Once it is loosened up you might have to take a cut-off tool or a Dremel and cut a notch for a straight screwdriver. This also works with hex head bolts and just about anything you have decent access to.

For future reference, an alignment tool smaller than the diameter of the screw can also be used to give it a few good jars straight down with a ball peen and loosen the rust. I always try to use heat, EZ outs and such as a last resort. My father fortunately taught me tons of tricks to loosen stubborn screws and bolts.

[jussi]

Thanks for all the advice guys. There was enough of a head left and with alot of liquid wrench I got the screw out. Now another bolt is plaguing me. It's the bolt that holds the yolk to the rollerhead. R3 on pic (SEE PIC) It has a large and long flathead tip. None of my screw drivers or bits fit it snuggly. My largest scewdriver is loose and am afraid I'll strip it if I force it. Will an impact driver work in this situation. Will it have a sufficient bit that will fit. BTW, thanks for suggesting that Delphi site Linux.

[Uncle Cracker]

Most of those impact drivers come with some big honkin' straight bits. Should be one there that fits pretty good. Just make sure the impact tool is lined up square to the bolt when you whack it, or you will end up pulling with just one end of the bit or the other, and you will wreck the screw head. An overnight soak with LW before you start will help.

[just started]

I would do a total rewire, all the wire will be in the same shape as what you see in the pix and it's not that expensive. For the crimped connectors you may be able to 'uncrimp' them enough to get the new wire in by cutting tight to one side of the lug and then pulling strands out individually and gently reaming and then I would solder the new wire in.

As the others have said, every tool box needs to have that antique impact driver kit in it for the once ever 8 years you can't do without it, like now.