Craftsman 21829 Owners/Users- Your opinions wanted!

[DonHo]

I don't know that my opinion is going to be of much value because many of the questions you want answered don't apply to my saw situtation. I do like the saw, I bought it to replace my BT3100 when the 3100 had problems because it's almost the same saw and all my jigs and accessories would fit. I like it better than the BT3100 because of the flat top instead of the ridiges and because it has longer rails. I can't say about the mobile base because the first thing I did was take it off the mobile base and mount it on the mobile cabinet I had made for the BT3100. I also don't use the router attachment plate because I built my own so I could use a router lift and finally I replaced the standard bladeguard/splitter with the sharkguard from the 3100. With my set up I'm very happy with the saw. That said, if I had room I'd probably rather have a cabinet saw or even a good hybred but I'm space limited and this saw and setup works great in my situtation.
DonHo

[Knottscott]

...Go and get a WWII or one of the Frued's talked about in other posts. I saw a review in Wood Magazine and wound up buying a Craftsman blade (#32808) and it made a night and day difference in the way the saw cut. That definitely made me more comfortable with the saw.

--Jack

Hi Jack - You may be pleased to know that the CMan blade you bought IS "one of the Freud's talked about in other posts". It looks like a TK306 rebadged with the Craftsman logo.

[pelligrini]

2) In use, how stable is the mobile base? What is the comfortable window of wood size to be cutting, assuming a solo operator, simple tables & sawhorses for in/outfeed support, and plenty of room on all sides? How long a board of 4/4 S3S 6-10" wide hardwood do you feel comfortable ripping? What range of wood dimensions and weights are you comfortable crosscutting with the SMT?

The length shouldn't be a problem for rips. Infeed and outfeed supports are necessary. Crosscutting wide panels with the SMT can be a problem. A really thin panel can be 22-23 inches, with the blade set really low. It’s still wider than the BT3s since the miter fence can be mounted in the middle and the rear of the table. I've crosscut some really long boards, but make sure there is proper support or the SMT might tilt a bit. I picked up the Long Rip fence to use on the SMT for longer crosscuts. It has a support bracket for long material, but with the SMT on the left and a long board and the long fence it got too heavy. I since added a 6” table on the left of my SMT and I no longer need to set up another end support.

3) When set up with everything attached and aligned, how easily can the saw be moved on the stand wheels to repositioned within the workspace? Do you find that you have to adjust the rail or SMT alignment each time you move the saw within your workspace?
4) When the saw is folded up to set aside, and then unfolded again in a few days after moving back to the center of the garage, do you need to realign the SMT and/or the rails each time?

I have never had to readjust any alignments due to moving the saw. The reason I chose the 21829 was because of the portability. My shop is really a 10x12 woodshack The saw gets folded up and wheeled in and out every time it gets to be used. Sometimes in these Texas summers I’ll follow the shade of the big tree in the yard. The only problems with alignment I have found are when it is on an uneven surface. Once I get it leveled alignment is back to normal.

5) Accessory router table functionality: Do you use the router accessory table regularly? Is it's level of functionality at least on par with the typical sub-$100 beginning router table? What is the largest workpiece you'd feel comfortable working with using this accessory table while mounted to the rails? (for example, putting a simple roundover edge on a 6'x6"x1" board for a shelf vs. cutting a 1/2" dado in a 15"x6"x1/2" drawer sidepanel, etc...)

I really don’t use the accessory table for much more than just surface area anymore. It does have a miter slot down each side, but they’re about useless for the saw as there is really no way to align them to the blade. They are useful for using the miter or a coping sled with a router though. The predrilled holes didn’t fit my Dwalt bases, but I did use it for a while with a custom mounting plate. It’s not really that long, 22” or so, but still quite usable. I made a table to fit between the rails that incorporates a router lift plate. My custom router fence attaches to my rip fence. I have since added a set of half rail extensions and the got a spare rip fence to attach the router fence to. I had to add a quick attach support leg on that right side though. The center of gravity got shifted too far to the right. I have the rails set as far as they will go to the left, but still allow the table to fold up at the end of the day. The whole assembly is still short enough too hold onto the handles and still clear my head when moving it around.

The best thing about the 21829 is all the customizations that are possible, either pre-made or homemade. I’m working out the details for some quick attach infeed and outfeed tables. I have already added a miter and T-track slot to both sides of the saw table. I already mentioned the router table and fence. I also have a set of full extension rails, which come in very handy for long plywood panels. If you do go with a 21829 be sure to get yourself an assortment of T-nuts and studs.

[jackd942]

Hi Jack - You may be pleased to know that the CMan blade you bought IS "one of the Freud's talked about in other posts". It looks like a TK306 rebadged with the Craftsman logo.

That's interesting...I guess it shouldn't surprise me seeing how Craftsman just re-brands everything. It's definitely a very good blade for $39. Thanks for the info.

--Jack

[LarryG]

One thing I learned working with my friends Delta is that a miter gauge in a miter slot is a fair crosscutting instrument at best. I'd planned on using his saw to clean up the edges in some of my work that I'd cut to rough length with a circular saw- but gave up after a few cuts and just did them back at home with my Jigsaw and a straight edge.

Since you're considering the 22114, I'll throw one comment into the mix on this ... the stock miter gauge (if that's what your friend has) that comes with most table saws is usually just barely good enough for them to be able to say, "Includes Miter Gauge!" Even the one that came with my PM2000, although a lot better than many stock gauges, was still sufficiently inaccurate and hard to adjust that I replaced it with a better, aftermarket gauge. A properly-adjusted conventional table saw with a decent miter gauge ought to have no problems making top-notch crosscuts.

Of course, an aftermarket gauge is more money. And in the interests of full disclosure, I will mention that I was never much of a fan of the SMT on my BT3100.

[unclecritic]

Just a quick thanks to the original poster and all that replied... all of the questions that I had have been answered and more... And I've pretty much given up my quest to find a bt3x this side of the mississippi... never thought I would ever use that phrase and I actually mean it quite literally Besides, my Girlfriend is probably sick of me say "Los Angeles? Seattle? Denver? Dang it!"

So I just missed the 21829 sale...but I signed up for the craftsman club in preparation for the next... I already have about 9 thousand projects lined up...

[JimD]

I think the 21829 is a good way to go but I agree with Larry that the SMT is not it's best feature. Mine worked OK for light stuff but I found it easy to push out of alignment with heavier pieces of wood. I put two miter slots in accessory tables and I use sleds. It works much better for me. A bigger more traditional saw would have the miter slots already. With sleds for crosscuts, a traditional saw will do well as will a BT with added slots.

I've made a couple bedroom sets and cabinets for our basement, basement bathroom, and family room plus a coffee table, hall table, and 3 end tables plus other stuff with my BT3100. I've ripped oak and maple 3 1/2 inches wide. I've ripped full sheets of plywood. I use my dedicated router table (with fence removed) as infeed support and my assembly table/workbench as outfeed support. I have the extension rails and built my own portable base. Unless you go to a 220V motor, I do not think you are giving up much if any power with the BT3100. My last table saw had a full 1hp induction motor which would regularly flip the breaker on a 15 amp circuit and was not noticably more powerful than my BT3100. It was not dustproof so I had to disassemble it periodically to blow dust out of the stator (it would stop working). My BT3100 is on a DC so dust is not a significant issue. I clean it and lube the height adjustment (with candle wax) at least once a year, more if I am doing a bunch of projects. It takes a little more care than a bigger sturdier saw and probably reacts worst to abuse but if you use it right, I do not think you are giving up anything significant (and I've used cabinet saws).

I love the micro-adjust for the rip fence and the rip fence in general. The riving knife is also something most bigger saws lack.

Jim

[dkerfoot]

1) Overall, do you like the saw and are you happy you bought this rather than other saws you were considering at the time? If you've used the saw and moved on to another saw, what was the main reason?

I am thrilled with it after over a year of use. I doubt I'll ever change.

2) In use, how stable is the mobile base? What is the comfortable window of wood size to be cutting, assuming a solo operator, simple tables & sawhorses for in/outfeed support, and plenty of room on all sides? How long a board of 4/4 S3S 6-10" wide hardwood do you feel comfortable ripping? What range of wood dimensions and weights are you comfortable crosscutting with the SMT?

Very stable. never an issue.

I typically cut sheetgoods down to size with a circular saw. more because my shop is small and I don't have a much handling room than any limits of the saw.

I don't do a lot of 4/4 hardwood, but the thought that a piece might be too long has never occurred to me.

I've comfortably cross-cut 7' long boards. You can easily slide the rails to one side or another so cross-cutting very wide boards is easy. Also, the rails are longer than the older BT3 rails.

3) When set up with everything attached and aligned, how easily can the saw be moved on the stand wheels to repositioned within the workspace? Do you find that you have to adjust the rail or SMT alignment each time you move the saw within your workspace?

Lift one end and go. It does not go out of alignment.

4) When the saw is folded up to set aside, and then unfolded again in a few days after moving back to the center of the garage, do you need to realign the SMT and/or the rails each time?

No. I fold and unfold it pretty much every time I use it. It stays in alignment wonderfully.

5) Accessory router table functionality: Do you use the router accessory table regularly? Is it's level of functionality at least on par with the typical sub-$100 beginning router table? What is the largest workpiece you'd feel comfortable working with using this accessory table while mounted to the rails? (for example, putting a simple roundover edge on a 6'x6"x1" board for a shelf vs. cutting a 1/2" dado in a 15"x6"x1/2" drawer sidepanel, etc...)

I love the router accessory table because you can handle really deep pieces. I have a very nice router table I use more often, but sometimes the accessory table is really handy.

6) How hard is it to remove the stock blade guard assembly, and the put back on again? Do you generally cut with the blade guard assembly in place or not- i.e. is it such a PITA that you take the whole thing off and lose it, or is it pretty easy to use and get used to? (I know... shark guard... but trying to figure out how well the stock equipment functions).

I eventually bought a sharkguard - but I was actually quite impressed with the standard guard. It takes about 2 - 3 minutes to put on or take off. I always had it on for all through cuts.

Do a search for 21829 - I have written about it several times.

[pacwind3]

One other saw to consider...

Take a look at the Bosch 4100. This is a portable saw with a gravity rise stand. For me, the biggest seller about it is the blade guard. Here is a link to check out the video for it. http://www.boschtools.com/Products/T...px?pid=4100-09

It doesn't have the router table, but that isn't too hard to make yourself. I have the BT and I don't use the blade guard because I don't like it. I've had one kickback in the 8 years I've owned the saw and it would have been avoided had I had the guard in place. I admit, I scared me enough to use it for awhile, but I am back to cutting without it. Maybe I'll ad an aftermarket guard soon.
My only other complaint about the BT is the throat plates. In my opinion, you need a zero clearence ALL the time, and making them is a major pain in the butt.