Question on router plates

**Pappy** · 02-01-2008, 09:41 PM

I started with the Rousseau router plate in my table with a Bosch 1617. When I decided to pull the Bosch out for hand use and switched to the Hitachi M12V I also modified the table to accept the Woodpeck Plunge Lift, both for the extra support of the aluminum plate and the above the table adjustment. It may be more than you planned to spend but, IMO, worth the extra $$$$. I also sprung for the ring set so I can have the opening as close to the size of the bit as possible.

http://www.woodpeck.com/plungelift.html

**bradley_osu** · 02-01-2008, 10:17 PM

The lift is a little more than I was hoping to spring for. My router has an above table adjustment I was going to attempt to use for a while. When I spring for a dedicated router table router then maybe I'll look at a lift. Did you like the rousseau?

**Black wallnut** · 02-02-2008, 01:18 AM

bradley here is a link that might be worth your time to read. In it i detail my thoughts on the Rousseau plate. I currently use the large Rockler plate and even though it is / was quite expensive I feel it was well worth the money I spent. The Rosseau plate will work but can give you fits if you like making sliding dovetails, at least that was my experience. It was still possible to use this type of joinrey but the fit was never as good as it should have been IMHO. YMMV.

**bradley_osu** · 02-02-2008, 09:15 AM

Thanks for that, I had read those reviews and was worried about that same issue. Because of that I was leaning towards the rockler plate anyways you just made my decision easy

**bradley_osu** · 02-02-2008, 09:16 AM

BTW anyone know of any rockler sales going on at the moment?

**os1kne** · 02-02-2008, 09:18 AM

I suggest going with an aluminum plate from either Rockler or Woodpeckers. They both make a number of plates in their own "standard" sizes (I think that Rockler has "small" plates and "large" plates - so you might need to be careful which you choose. It'd be nice if all plates were a standard size). If you ever decide to move up to a plate with a lift - or get a second router, it will drop in to your current table without modification, provided you stay with the same brand. Both companies also make accessories to go along with their plates.

I've just heard of too many people having problems with their polycarbonate plates sagging/warping, even with the weight of a modest router.

I'm sure that most of the polycarbonate plates don't have this problem, and I know that the number of sag stories is due to the fact that people are more likely to complain than praise. But, the way I looked at it when I got my plate (Woodpeckers aluminum) was if I got a polycarbonate, and had a problem it would frustrate me to no end and I'd wish that I'd have got an aluminum plate in the beginning.

With the aluminum plate, you will likely need to drill a hole (or 2) to utilize the above-the-table features on your router. But, this really isn't a big deal - especially if you have access to a drill press. Use your OEM plate as a template and be careful with marking the location of the new holes, start with a small bit and work your way up.

Good luck.

**Knottscott** · 02-02-2008, 09:31 AM

Depending on the span, polycarb might have to be a bit thicker to be strong enough. Aluminum is plenty strong but also louder. I've been really happy with a phenolic insert from Hartville...I liked it well enough that I bought a second one so I can switch between routers in the table.

**LarryG** · 02-02-2008, 09:33 AM

Another vote for aluminum. My own experience with a phenolic plate is described in the thread to which Mark (Black Wallnut) links.

On the matter of size ... although there doesn't seem to be a true "standard," a fair number of plates and lifts require a 9-1/4" x 11-3/4" cutout. I suggest going with this size as it is likely to give you the most flexibility if you ever wanted to upgrade to a lift.

**bradley_osu** · 02-02-2008, 09:36 AM

Now one last quick question... rockler or woodpecker. To me it looks like the woodpecker plate is of higher quality and has more features. The rockler plate does not appear to have levelers or anything of that sort. How important is that? Should I also purchase the plate cutting template?

**SARGE..g-47** · 02-02-2008, 09:45 AM

I had thought about changing my home-made 1 1/2" top.. laminated baltic birch fence and phenolic plate recently thinking that I probably had sag after 5 years of heavy use. So.. I shopped them last week-end at the Atlanta WW Show and got a feel for what's out there even though I had no issues with the home-made I have.

I found some nice stuff.. but I decided to check mine with a machinist straight edge before pulling the trigger on anything. Lo and behold it was dead on on the table and fence. It did have about .004 sag in the center of the plate holding up the Milwaukee 5625 beast. But.. on the other hand, that could have been there to begin with as you couldn't squeeze a knat's behind through .004 and that is more than acceptable in wood. So..

I was impressed with the 1/4" aluminum plated sold by Peachtree Woodworking Supply ( www.ptreeusa.com ) at $59 and 9" x 12". I was going to suggest it to you, but it appears the Rockler is the same basic plate depending on the size and the Peachtree is a soft gold color with red insert. And as we all know.. colors schemes are all so important to the results of a finished product. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

But.. with all that mumbo-jumboing I just did.. I was very impressed with aluminum plated even though my phenolic has done it and obviously continue to do it in the future. But.. if I ever switch.. the aluminum will get the call!

Edit.. just read.. call Rocker as I'm sure it has levelers.. plates are useless without them and yep.. you need a template unless you want to build your own and that is not time to cost efficient.

**Carlos** · 02-02-2008, 12:35 PM

I have a PC 890 with the above-the-table adjuster. I have it mounted to a Rockler aluminum plate, and that's in a Rockler router table. The router table would be easy to duplicate in your own cabinet, but it was on sale and decently-made, so I went the easy way. The plate comes with leveler screws. I can shoot photos of how the whole thing goe in their table, but it's easy to duplicate. You could easily do it with a top-bearing bit and some guides.

The Rockler plate is solid and flat. Price was not exhorbitant.

**JimD** · 02-02-2008, 01:48 PM

Why use a plate? I just reduce the thickness of the top to 3/8 in the shape of the router base and bolt directly to it. Minimizes sag, maximizes $ savings. I know I am in the minority but I still do not see any big advantage of a plate. Because the size is only the less than 6 inch diameter of my PC690 base, even 3/8 of particle board will not sag (at least I can see none in mine).

My main router table (I also have a setup in the extension table of my BT3100) has a 3/4 sink cutoff with another layer of 3/4 plywood except where the router comes up. The router is fastened to a homemade lift (based upon the design from the American Woodworker article a few years ago, probably still available from them) that is fastened to the back of the router table instead of the top. I really like this setup because you just loosen a couple of knobs and tilt the top up to change bits. It has no plate either. I made some inserts to close down the opening for the occasional time I need to do that.

Jim

**bradley_osu** · 02-02-2008, 03:30 PM

Thanks for all of the suggestions, it looks like I'm going with the rockler plate as my one concern with that was addressed. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Question on router plates

Question on router plates

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